Whirlpool 330031 - Surface Burner Plug-In Block Kit | PartSelect.ca
Surface Burner Plug-In Block Kit – Part Number: 330031
Surface Burner Plug-In Block Kit – Part Number: 330031 https://partselectca.azureedge.net/Schematics/Maytag/44177.gif

Surface Burner Plug-In Block Kit

1 Review

Your Price

CAD$16.09

PartSelect Number PS340571
Manufacturer Part Number 330031
Manufactured by Whirlpool

This newer-style terminal block kit includes two metal brackets, two pre-crimped wires with terminals, two ceramic wire nuts, a heat shrinking tube, and a mounting screw.

This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Amana, Roper, Caloric, Magic Chef, Maytag, KitchenAid, Hardwick, Admiral, Kenmore, Litton, Norge, Crosley, Estate, Jenn-Air, Glenwood, Hoover.

This part works with the following products: Range, Cooktop, Microwave Oven Combo.

This part fixes the following symptoms: Element will not heat.

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Installation Instructions Provided by PartSelect customers like you.
Average Repair Rating: 4.2 / 5.0, 48 reviews
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Jon from Oakley, CA
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set
Parts Used:
WPW10196405, WPW10196406, 814103, 330031
Surface elements quit working
Drilled out old and broken hold down clips, installed new ones(4). Cut old wires attached to surface plug in block, striped wires, and attached new plugin kit(4), warmed up heat shrink with a hair dryer, put in new drip bowels, the stove is like new.
I ordered the parts on line early one morning, the next day they were at my door and installed that day, everything that I ordered was there, and fit properly.

Way to go Part Select.com

Jon
230 of 314 people found this instruction helpful.
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Jonathan from Lilburn, GA
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Pliers, Screw drivers
Parts Used:
WP660533, 330031
8 inch burner wouldn't come on. Wires shorted out
One screw holds the block onto the stove top. Had to clean out fitting for phillips screwdriver or screw would have stripped because it was old with lots of buildup. Even cleaned out, this screw required great force with phillips screwdriver to keep from stripping. Caution! If you strip it, you'll have to drill it out! The rest was a snap. Cut the old wires leading to the old block (not too close to where wires disappear into back of stove, though!). Strip insulation off both wires and attach with the connectors that came in the kit. Then push the wires into the block, and finally, attach the block back to the stove top (new screw is supplied). Restore power and everything should be fine. One problem: Roper/Whirlpool built their appliance in such a way that when the connector block shorts out, it usually takes the infinite switch with it. So I ended up having to go back and purchase that switch as well (which just so happens to cost twice to three times as much!). If you put it all back together and it still doesn't work, that's probably what happened, so go ahead and remove the knob panel and check that switch (it's right behind the control knobs on the front). You will probably find a burned connector at the back top left or the switch. Don't forget to write down which wire goes where (or just take a picture of it).
58 of 69 people found this instruction helpful.
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Raymond from Rome, PA
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers
Parts Used:
330031, 3190716
Burners were working intermittenly. Sockets arching.
First, I pulled the stove away from the wall and unplugged it from the wall outlet. I then removed all of the burners and pans. I removed the upper part of the back cover on the stove to reveal the wiring harness, from the reostats to the burners. I made sure that the length of the new harrness was the same as the old one. I then checked the color of the wires to make sure they corrosponded with the old ones.
( Before removing the wires, I used a sharpie permanent black marker and wrote the color of each wire next to where it connected.) Then I removed all of the wires from the connectors on the reostats.
I then removed the screws from the bracket that holds the wire harness to the stove and the one from the short green grounding wire. This way you can remove the top of the stove by raising it and sliding it to the left. I then removed the screws from the burner sockets and removed the harness. I then installed the new harness in reverse. As with the grounding wire and the wire connections on the reastats.
The only problem I incurred was that the steel bracket that hold the burner socket to the stove top was to long. The burner would not plug into the socket far enough to make a good connection. So I replaced them with the ones in "The Newer Style Plug-in Block Kit". ( I had purchased these not realizing that the sockets came on the wire harness). So it all worked out in the end. Overall It is a pretty simple job with one philips head screw driver and a little muscle to move the stove.
25 of 29 people found this instruction helpful.
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Scott from Pleasant Valley, CT
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
Tools:
Pliers, Screw drivers
Parts Used:
814103, WP660533, 330031
Burner was arching or not heating up.
I followed the instructions on removing the existing burner, recepticle, and section of wire. Then followed same instructions for reinstalling above new parts. The instructions were simple and straight forward. The only gluich was that I had to drill out the rivets holding in the old hold down clips. I drilled these out with an 1/8" bit on the burner side off the opening.
12 of 15 people found this instruction helpful.
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Phillip from Pekin, IL
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers
Parts Used:
330031
One burner didn't work all the time the other would go red hot
I unplugged the stove from the outlet, then removed the two burners I was going to be working on and the drip pans. Then I raised the top part of the stove and removed the screws holding the plug-in blocks to the stove. Then I cut the two wires going to the old plug-in block and stripped the wires back to match the new wire parts. Then I placed the sleeves over the new wires, then I placed the new wire beside the wire I stripped on the stove and screw on the wire cap making sure it was tight. I repeated this three more times, once I had all four wires connected I then placed the sleeves over the connections and heated them up until they were formed around the connection. Once I had all the connections done I placed one wire at a time into the plug-in block until it locked into place ( I looked at my old plug-in blocks first to make sure I placed the new wires in the correct way ).I then used the metal mounting bracket that matched my old ones and snapped the correct one onto each plug-in block. Before mounting them onto the stove I compared them to my old ones to make sure they were correct. Then I used the new screws to mount them to the stove. I took a second look at everything I had done before closing the top cover of my stove. After lowering the cover back into place I put both the drip covers in place and then installed the burners.I then plugged the stove back into the outlet and tried the burners. This was very simple and the video on the web site shows this very well which made my job very simple.
10 of 11 people found this instruction helpful.
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CHARLES from SOMERSWORTH, NH
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers, Socket set
Parts Used:
WPW10196405, WPW10196406, WP660533, 330031
Cooktop Elements Worked Intermittantly.
Turn the power off to the unit. Remove the cold element by lifting up and pulling out. Remove the drip pan. Remove the element plug screw and pull the plug up and out of the socket. Cut the leads to the plug as close to the plug end as possible to allow enough wire to splice the new plug in. Strip the insullation back 3/8" to allow for splicing. Install the shrink tube collar on the wire and place one new lead (prestripped at the factory)next to the old wire and place the wire nut provided over the bare wire ends and twist it on until it is tight. Bend the wire nut splice back over one of the leads and slide the shrink tape over it. Heat up the shrink tape with a hair dryer to make it tight over the wire nut connection. Repeat the process for the next lead. Slide the leads into the new socket. Install the socket and secure the the new screw provided. Reinstall the drip pan and plug in the heat element. Follow the same procedure for each element socket replaced. Turn the power back on.
7 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
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JOAN from Pickford, MI
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers
Parts Used:
330031
Electric burners where consistently intermittently working right. Sometimes they would work on High but not able to adjust to low heat. Sometimes they would just not want to come on at all. Occasionally there was a spark at the connection. If I jiggled the element just right it may or may not wo
Thought we was going to have to replace the range all together, due to most parts not being available for this model anymore. Since this is an expensive model, we did not look forward to having to replace it. So I thought just by chance I would check to see if anyone had parts to help in repairing it. Part Select did happen to have the Surface Plug-in block kit that was needed. After going at least a year with this problem, I am sooooo happy to say it is finally fixed and working great! Thanks much Parts Select.
6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
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Ronald from Fresno, CA
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers
Parts Used:
330031
Electric burner on stove would not work
The first thing I did was to turn the power off to the stove by turning the Stove circuit breaker off at the Main breaker panel. I next removed the 4 burners by pulling them out of their plug-in blocks. I then removed the four screws that held the top of the stove to the body so I could access the bad plug-in block, the screws were located under each of the burners drip pans. I next removed the screw holding the bad block. I lifted up the top of the stove so as to relocate the bad block, with wires connected, through the opening of the back burner. The bad block was located in the front rt part of the stove and by rerouting this to the back I could lay the top down and have easy access to what I needed to replace. I next used the knife to make a cut down the length of the old shrink tubing so as to gain access to the old splice. I next removed the old wire nuts which allowed the removal of the bad block. I then install the new clips into the new block. I installed one each shrink tubing onto each of the pigtails from the new clips and twisted the one new wire to the stove wiring harnes were the old wire was connected . I connected the seconded wire in the same manner. I pulled on each wire to verify that they were tightly secured together. I then positioned each shrink tubing over each wire nut (you have to fold the wire nut and wires down against the wire so as the shrink tubing will slip over the wire nut) and used a heating tool (hair dryer on high) to shrink the tubing around the wire nutted connection. I next installed the metal clip that would hold the block to the stove top. I placed the new block back to the location where the old block came from and secured it with the new screw provided by the kit. I re-installed the four screws to hold the top down, plugged in the four burners, turned the power on at the breaker box and turned the burner on to test that it work.
5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
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Patti from Burbana, IL
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
Tools:
Pliers, Screw drivers
Parts Used:
WP660533, 330031
Sparking Burner
Followed instructions from previous repair story!!
Pulled old burner out. Unscrewed plug element. Cut old wires back about 6 inches from plug. Attached new part with wire nuts provided and covered with shrink sleeves provided. Attached plug with provided screw and slipped in new element. Works great!!
I want to thank the previous posters for posting their detailed repair stories....without reading those, I may have called a repair service and paid big bucks. Thanks to all previous posters for the detailed information they provided!! PS...The parts arrived in amazingly quick!!
5 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
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Doug from Puyallup, WA
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Pliers, Screw drivers
Parts Used:
330031
Sparks emitted at burner connection and burner does not work.
1. Turn off circuit breaker, pull out element and remove reflector pan.
2. Unfasten terminal block mounting screw and remove terminal block from casing.
3. Cut wires as close to defective terminal block as possible (not as per instructions) since you will need the maximum possible length of wire.
4. Slip on heat shrink sleeves, strip stove wires and connect to new terminal block per instructions.
5. Heat shrink sleeves per instructions.
4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
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Model Cross Reference

Brand
Model Number
Description
Kenmore
101.936630
Range - Kenmore Range/Stove/Oven Model 101.936630 (101936630, 101 936630) Parts
Kenmore
101.936634
Range - Kenmore Range/Stove/Oven Model 101.936634 (101936634, 101 936634) Parts
Kenmore
101.938630
Range - Kenmore Range/Stove/Oven Model 101.938630 (101938630, 101 938630) Parts
Kenmore
101.938635
Range - Kenmore Range/Stove/Oven Model 101.938635 (101938635, 101 938635) Parts
Admiral
1058AH-W
Range - Electric
Admiral
1058AH-Z
Range - Electric
Admiral
1058WH-W
Range - Electric
Admiral
1068F-CZ
Range - Slide-in, Electric
Hoover
1151AJ-30
Cooktop
Admiral
1151AL-30
Cooktop
Hoover
1151WJ-30
Cooktop
Admiral
1151WL-30
Cooktop
Roper
1346*0A
Range - GAS RANGE
Whirlpool
1346^0A
Range
Roper
1346W0A
Range - Freestanding, Gas
Roper
1347*0A
Range - GAS RANGE
Whirlpool
1347^0A
Range
Roper
1347W0A
Range - Freestanding, Gas
Roper
1355*0A
Range - GAS RANGE
Roper
1355*1A
Range - GAS RANGE
Roper
1355*2A
Range - GAS RANGE
Roper
1355*3A
Range - Range (gas)*
Whirlpool
1355^0A
Range
Whirlpool
1355^1A
Range
Whirlpool
1355^2A
Range
Whirlpool
1355^3A
Range
Roper
1355W0A
Range - Freestanding, Gas
Roper
1355W1A
Range - Freestanding, Gas
Roper
1355W2A
Range - Freestanding, Gas
Roper
1355W3A
Range - Gas