Thrust Spacer 285587

On top of the agitator is a flat cap that is held in place by the friction of an o-ring, there are no fasteners. I would imagine one could get under the lip with a small screwdriver or butter knife to pop it off but I chose simply using my fingernails so as to not disfigure the cap. Under the cap you will find the head of the only bolt that holds the assembly together it is a 7/16 head and because it is in a 4" deep well your will need a 6" extension for your ratchet. Once the bolt is out the top of the agitator, the assembly with the cogs removes by hand. Set the assembly upside down on the counter, slide the black plastic ring off, pull the cogs out with your fingertips, install the new cogs put a new black ring on and set the assembly back in the agitator. Reinstall bolt. As the bolt is down in a tube, you cannot set it in place with your fingers and it will fall out of the socket. To hold the bolt in the socket during positioning you can either put a gob of Vaseline on the bolt head to hold it in the socket or form a small piece of paper over the bolt head and set it into the socket, the friction of the paper will hold the bolt into the socket. Took me less then 10 minutes, good luck

Pried off the agitator cap. Removed the bolt. Removed the agitator. In the process of separating the agitator from the base, a plastic tab broke off which concerned me. BUT, in the directions with the part it explains that the 2 tabs are for factory assembly and to break both of them off. Broke off the second tab and reassembled. My 18 year old Kenmore is back in action.

wife complained about washing machine making bad noise and she said it was not spinning. So being the good husband that I am, after she yelled at me 8-10 times I stopped what I was doing and sure enough she was right , the washing machine wasn't working correctly. Started testing the agitator by spinning it back and forth. it would only catch on the dogs every once in a while. the washer is only 3 years old, thought maybe one of the kids toys or lint was interferring with the dogs, pulled this dispenser off the top and then another plastic cap with a black o-ring off and found the agitator and dogs gears worn down and chipped. think it was a 3/8" socket I used, but you need a long extension to get to it. Part was labelled well and it was very easy to order. problem I had was when the new parts came in I had ordered the agitator repair kit ($16) and the thrust spacer ($5). Well it's not that $5 is alot of money but the spacer I had was worn and I was in there anyway so why not. The agitator repair kit comes with a thrust spacer but it was not shown on the otherwise very detailed pictures. So it would cost more for me to pay the shipping to return the unused part than not. the agitator repair kit description reads "This nine piece agitator repair kit comes with a two and a half inch cam, a thrust spacer, and four dogs (agitator dogs) but the thrust spacer is not shown. You could say I was 30% more into parts cost and make it sound worse. Had I been an actual repair man instead of a home do it yourself kind of person, probably would have known to call and speak with a rep vice going at it online solo. anyway, 5 minutes and the washer was back up, wife was happy, and I was able to continue with what i was originally doing.

took off back and sides to the washer. laid the washer on it's back and removed worn and broken parts. replaced these parts and put everything back together. The top part of the agitator hasn't worked in a while, while we had it apart we also replaced the clogs. The washer works better than it has in a long time. Spins a lot more water from the clothes which makes drying faster. I would surely do this again. A lot cheaper than a new washer.

removed agitator top by pulling up with hands. Removed inner agitator seal body by grasping with pliers and pulling up. Used 7/16 socket with extra extension to remove top agitator retension bolt. Removed top agitator body and thrust spacer by lifting off of agitator base. Assembled dogs on body as shown in instructions. Replaced thrust spacer on top of agitator base. Installed upper agitator body. Placed dog body inside upper agitator. Placed small piece of paper over 7/16 socket and forced bolt into socket. This held bolt in upright position as I replaced it down inside the upper agitator body and dog assembly with the long extensions. Replaced O-ring on inner agitator seal body and replaced into the upper agitator body using the long extensions to tap it into place. Pressed top agitator cap onto top of upper agitator body. All done. The agitator repair kit purchased had a thrust spacer in it but was not the correct one for my model so I purchased the correct spacer separate. The website is great because it shows the parts in detail so you can take your time and get the proper parts first time, everytime.

Remove top "cap" on agitator to expose the bolt that holds the agitator to the drum shaft. Undo the bolt and pull out the agitator. Disassemble, toss the old parts and install the new parts in reverse order. Repair took less than 5 minutes and we can now do full loads of laundry again!

pull up and off the fabric dispenser, remove the nut in the middle, and pull the piece off. underneath are 4 plastic things (dogs) that will just fall out. replace them (because they have little plastic things that jut out) and wear away. maneuver the piece back in place and tighten the screw back into place.
SAME JOB BY REPAIR CO. COST ME $95.00 THE FIRST TIME. WE USE HEAVY LOADS AND THE DOGS WEAR OUT AFTER A FEW YEARS. NOW I JUST CHANGE THEM MYSELF.***DID I ADD THAT I AM A WOMAN****

Job was easy! Just remove the top cap with a screw driver. With a socket and extension, remove the bolt that holds the agitator to the transmission shaft. Pull up on the agitator and lift it off the shaft. I had to use the screw driver to pry off the center piece that held the cogs because it did not what to separate from the rest of the agitator. Removed the pieces of the old, broken cogs, cleaned up the parts and installed the new cogs with the center piece upside down. I then took some silicone lubricant and lubed the area the cogs rub on and the opening the center piece spins in on the rest of the agitator. I then removed the Thrust Spacer on the mail part of the agitator but just lifting off the old one and putting on the new one. Then, with the center piece that holds the cogs upside down I inserted it into the upper corkscrew section of the agitator so that the cogs would not fall out. While holding the two pieces together, I turned it back right-side-up and installed it back onto the other part of the agitator and then on the shaft. Re-installed the bolt and tightened with the socket. That's it! It sounds more complicated then it really was.

It was extremely easy. I removed the plastic cap under the softener dispenser, removed the nut and washer that holds the upper agitator in place and then replaced the parts that came in the kit. The most important note for those who may be doing this job is that the o-ring for the cap under the softener dispenser, the seal washer for the bolt and the thrust spacer under the upper agitator all came with the kit. I did not realize that and ordered them all seperately.

Removed softner dispenser on top of agitator. Removed next was cap and seal cover at base of the agitator by just pulling it up. Used 1/4" drive w/ 7/16" socket w/long extension to remove the agitator mounting bolt. While holding the bottom of the auger, pull the agitator up, removing the top agitator assembly. Replace the necessary worn parts. Read the directions which came with your ordered parts. Also, the agitator grease which you are to use to lube the top of the Thrust washer is not included in the repair kit. You can use non water soluable grease to lube the thrust washer or order part number 350849. Total time, 15 minutes. Happy washing...