Part Location Diagram of 279834 Whirlpool M Series New Style Coil Kit
See part 14 in the diagram
( Grid squares measure 1x1 inch )
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M Series New Style Coil Kit

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$39.39
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PartSelect Number PS334310
Manufacturer Part Number 279834
Manufactured by Whirlpool
Product Description

M Series New Style Coil Kit Specifications

This gas dryer ignition coil set comes with two ignition coils: one three-terminal boost/hold coil, and one two terminal secondary coil. Usually only one of them burns out but you should replace them as a set. Both have to be operational for the gas valve to open.
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Troubleshooting
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Not Heating | Noisy
This part works with the following products:
Dryer, Washer Dryer Combo.
This part works with the following products:
Whirlpool, Kenmore, Maytag, Speed Queen.
Part# 279834 replaces these:
AP3094251, 3479, 279834, 12001349, 14201336, 14201452, 14202750, 14205025, 14210032, 14210725, 14210908, 279834, 279834BULK, 279834VP, 3-6105, 3-6106, 306105, 306106, 58804A, 58804B ... Show more , 63-6614, 63-6615, 694539, 694540, F91-3889, F91-3890, K35-288, K35-355, K35-450, R0610003, R0610050, SCA700, WP279834 Show less
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Customer Reviews
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Customer Repair Stories
 Average Repair Rating: 3.7 / 5.0, 135 reviews. What's this?
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Gas Dryer would not ignite
1. Removed lint screen and holder frame. Unplugged the electrical cord and closed the gas valve in the line before it goes into the dryer.
2. Removed two bolts at bottom front of machine and took off the bottom front panel.
3. Removed three bolts from black plastic exit vent and took it out to give more room to access everything.
4. removed two wires and screws on the limit thermostat. Did the reverse to place the new one.
5. Removed wires (remembering placement), then holder screw. rotated the Gas Dryer Sensor counter clockwise to release the bottom tab so the sensor can be taken off the flame tube. Did the reverse to place the new one on.
6. Removed the one screw on the gas/flame tube that holds the bracket and igniter inside the flame tube. Removed the wires fro the igniter (remember placement) Slid the whole assembly toward the back of the machine to get the tube off the gas valve then rotated the whole assembly counter-clocwise to release the tab on the left side of the bracket. This was a little tight and had to work with it a bit to get the tab out and slide the whole piece out of the flame tube.
7. Once the tube and igniter were out i removed the scree that holds the igniter and replaced with the new one. Made sure no dust, etc. was in the piece.
8. Did the reverse to place the tube/igniter back into the flame tube.
9. Carefully and forcefully removed the wire connectors to the two coils. These were tough to get off. Removed the two screws that hold the bracket that holds the two coils in place. Slid the coils off the spindles remembering which one has the two wire connection and which one has the three wire connection and the way they went on. Replaced the old with the new. Placed the bracket onto the new coils and made sure the little bumps on the top are in the holes in the bracket. Tightened the screws to hold the coil bracket. Reattached the wire connectors to the coils making sure they go ALL the way back on.
10. Vaccumed everything I could to get lint, dust, etc. out.
11.Replaced the black vent plastic.
12 Made sure the exit vent on the back was not crimped or clogged. Checked the little flap door where the vent goes outside to make sure it opens and closes super easy to no air flow is restricted.
13. For testing I left the bottom panel open. Make sure you closed the door, reconnect the plug and turn the gas valve back on. Hit the go button on autodry or timed dry. The door must be closed to create the closed circulation of the system so the fan sucks the flame into the tube otherwise the flame will not fire deep into the tube and will set off one fo the overheat sensors. After hitting the go button your drum will start to rotate, then a few seconds later you'll hear a click and your igniter will start to burn bright orange. Another click and the gas should flow and ignite.
14. This shows that you've fixed the ignition problem. I just replaced everything I thought that could be wrong in stead of hunting and trial and error. All the parts were about $137 so I thought it was worth making sure.
15. IMPORTANT: If during your test the flame turns off after a little while then turns back on only to turn off again, don't panic. This happened to me as well. I found that you need to run the dryer with wet clothes in the dryer. The wetness in the clothes will keep the autodry sensor from shutting off the dryer since there will be moisture in the exhaust. If it's on timed dry the wet clothes will cool the exhaust air and keep the overheat sensors from turning the heat off. So no heating of dry clothes to get out wrinkles. Just dry the wet clothes. This is all I did and it's been working great so far. Good Luck!
Other Parts Used:
High Limit Thermostat Igniter Dryer Radiant Flame Sensor
  • Michael from Kirkwood, MO
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
886 of 1042 people found this instruction helpful.
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Dryer ran but would not heat
PartSelect showed seven different possibilities why the dryer wouldn't heat. I removed the two screws to remove the bottom panel and turned the dryer on and noticed that the heating element that ignites the gas was working fine. This meant that it was not getting gas so it could be the gas valve or one of the two gas valve coils which are located on top of the gas valve. I borrowed my neighbor"s ohm meter and touched the two probes on the coils terminals to check for continuity and found that one of the coils read zero. I then took both of the coils out by removing two screws and tested each coil again. One coil read 500-850 and the other read zero. This meant that it was no good so I called for the part and received it in three days. I reassembled the parts and turned the dryer on and it fired up after a few seconds. It works as good as new. The part plus shipping was less than $30. My repairman would have charged me $150-$200. While the dryer was apart I gave it a good cleaning with a vacuum and a toothbrush in delicate areas. I also removed and cleaned the lint trap housing by removing two nuts. I didn't know much about gas dryers, but thanks to PartSelect I easily fixed it myself.
Other Parts Used:
  • Gary from Haverhill, NH
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
389 of 438 people found this instruction helpful.
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Dryer flame goes out after about 8-minutes from start and won’t work again until a 15-minute rest.
There was no problem with lint build-up within the dryer & the exhaust vent. I removed the gas cycling thermostat & thermal fuse from system & dryer still was not operating correctly. The radiant sensor & hi-limit thermostat both seemed to be operating correctly. That left either of the two coils as the culprits. I replaced both coils & the problem was corrected.
Other Parts Used:
  • andy from Bethesda, MD
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
202 of 222 people found this instruction helpful.
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Timer wasn't working (New Timer)
Timer wasn't working on the regular cycle so I replace it with a new one from partselect. It still wasn't working so I ordered and replace the cycling thermostat, the thermal fuse I also cleaned the vent and dryer it still didn't work so I read the diagram for the electrical and found that a coil for the gas valve is line with timer. I ordered the coils for the valves, replaced both valves and tested the dryer and it work just like when I first bought the appliance.
Other Parts Used:
  • Joaquin from Las Vegas, NV
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
158 of 198 people found this instruction helpful.
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Extended drying time. Some but not enough heat. Burner would light for 15-18 seconds at first then shut off for 1-3 minutes then light for 3-6 seconds and repeat for the length of the cycle.
Determining the problem was the hardest part. With multiple parts (coils,thermostats...)possibly causing similar symptoms, I narrowed it down to the two coil valves.
Un plug the dryer. Remove two screws at the base of the front panel. Turn the front panel 180 degrees to avoid disconnecting the door switch. Gas valve with coils on top are on the right in front. Remove two screws in bracket holding coils, disconnect the wires, replace with new coils and reconnect wires. One coil has 2 terminals the other has 3 no chance of crossing the wires. I used an offset/right angle screw driver for one of the bracket screws due to close proximity to the drum. A stubby phillips head will work. You can check the burner operation with the front panel off as long as the door switch is still attached. Swing the front panel around and lift back into place securing with the two screws. Dryer works fine now.
Other Parts Used:
  • Matthew from Lake Worth, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
120 of 138 people found this instruction helpful.
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Dryer would only heat cycle once
I removed the two screws holding the front panel to expose the lower works and verified the heating cycle failure. After a check of the vent system, checking the sensors for continuity and coils for resistance, I retired to the 'net for support. Accepting the general consensus that the most frequent, common and likely failure to be the coils, I rechecked them with the meter and found the two pronged coil to have significantly more resistance than the three prong coil. That was enough evidence to point to the coils. While I waited for the part to arrive, I replace the vent ducting. When the parts arrived I removed the two Phillips screws holding the coils, removed the old ones, installed the new ones, replaced the bracket, put the front cover back on and in less then ten minutes clothes where drying.
Other Parts Used:
  • Robert from Seattle, WA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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The dryer heated up for a few minutes and then cooled down.
1 Unplug power.
2. Remove the front of the unit by removing the two screws at the bottom of the front panel. Front dryer panel will swing out from the bottom and then the clips will release the top of the panel, careful not to disconnect the dryer door switch. ( can be unplugged to remove the front panel out of the way.)
3. Looking inside the unit on the right side you will see the gas value. On top of the gas unit you will see two small coils the coil closest to the burner has two leads on it. Remove the two screws to get to the coils, remove the medal plate, remove the connector then lift off the secondary coil. Replace and test. You can test unit with the front panel off. (be careful). If no heat, check that the Flat Style igniter is glowing. (ohm out both coils) before ordering parts. Intermittent heat problems. I replaced the secondary coil, it did ohm out o:k but it had swollen and was very tight on the shaft.
Other Parts Used:
  • James from Limington, ME
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
65 of 73 people found this instruction helpful.
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Dryer had no heat.
I read previous posts and figured that the Thermal Fuse, Cycling Thermostat, Secondary Coil Gas Valve, and Two Terminal Coil Gas Valve added up to about 74% probability for fixing the problem. Well, bingo!! Problem solved replacing the above parts. Didn't want to waste time starting with the cheapest thing and then moving on. With a family of five we need laundry capacity almost daily.Took barely more than 1 hr. to take it apart and replace the parts and put back together. The instructional video made all the difference in the world. Very very easy. The trickiest part was the clamp holding down the two coils on the gas valve. There was limited space to get the screwdriver on the screws due to the drum being in the way. Put a screwdriver bit from my cordless screwgun in a socket and was able to get the job done. Thank you part select!!! Total repair was barely over $100 including shipping and did it on my own time without having to set up a time for a repair guy.
Other Parts Used:
Dryer Thermal Fuse Dryer Cycling Thermostat
  • Randy from Yucaipa, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
64 of 1322 people found this instruction helpful.
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The dryer would start to heat then the heat would stop
I changed out the cycling thermostat and the high limit thermostat. Mainly because that was what my research indicated was the problem. I then found some more information online that indicated the gas solenoid valves were bad. I ordered them from you and replaced them. The problem was fixed.

In order to replace the valves you need to remove the top panel. Two screws at the top of the front door assembly hold it on. Remove the screws, lift up on the front panel door assembly and move it to the side. The drum will rest in place. In the lower left corner, under the drum, you will see the solenoids. Two screws attach a plate that holds down the solenoids. Take the hold down plate off, disconnect the control wires attached to the solenoids and lift out the solenoid/control valves. To assemble everything, work backwards to the start. Good Luck
Other Parts Used:
  • Theodore from Riverside, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench set
56 of 66 people found this instruction helpful.
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dryer would get hot for a while, then quit heating
After reading about other people with this same problem I took a chance that this would be what was wrong with my dryer.I took off the front cover of the dryer by removing two screws. I located the faulty coils and simply plugged in the 2 new coils Tah-dah Probably coud have been done without even removing the front panel, but since it was off I vacuumed out the lint ( actually my husband did all of the above, but I tell a better tale than he does and I diagnosed the problem and ordered theparts)
Other Parts Used:
  • Sharon from Houston, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
54 of 66 people found this instruction helpful.
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Questions and Answers

Ask our experts a question about this part and we'll get back to you as soon as possible!

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Kaelyn
July 20, 2017
If the flame in my dryer is only lasting for a few seconds and then shutting off is it the igniters problem? What should I be looking for in this situation?
PartSelect logo
Hi Kaelyn, Thank you for the question. The coils can be tested using a multi-meter tool. The 2-prong coil read 1,000-1,300 ohms. The 3-prong coil will read 1,300-1,400 ohms across prongs 1 and 2, and 500-600 ohms across prongs 1 and 3. Please let us know if you have any further questions!

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Joelle
July 20, 2017
I’m having problems with my dryer because I don’t think there is any gas but the igniter is coming on. Would the gas valve coil kit solve this
PartSelect logo
Hi Joelle, yes this should fix your problem. Unfortunately, there is no real way to test which coil is the problem so both should be replaced at the same time, which is why this assembly will come with 2. I hope this helps!

41 people found this helpful.

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Bryan
August 7, 2018
Does these parts work with my Whirlpool dryer model number lgr5644aw1? (ps334310 279834), (ps11741405 wp3387134), (ps11741460 wp3392519), (ps11741429 wp338906)
For model number LGR5644AW1
PartSelect logo
Hi Bryan, Thank you for your question. Yes, these parts are listed under your model number and will work in your dryer. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!

31 people found this helpful.

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Olie
July 20, 2017
I think my coils need replacing because I am not getting heat in my dryer… but how do I check the igniter, where is it? Id rather wait to buy this part and make sure that I actually need it!
PartSelect logo
Hello Olie, we suggest removing the front panel and the drum, and then turn the dryer on. When the dryer turns on, pay attention to the igniter and see what it does. Best of luck with this repair.

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David
July 31, 2017
Hello when i turn on my clothe dryer i notice that my gas valve opens only once in the first start then the igniter turns on normaly but not the gas valve no flames at all i then turn off the dryer wait a few minutes and it ignites Flame once and again same problem the igniter turns red hot at its normal phase but no Flame what could it be thank you
For model number WGD5500SQ0
PartSelect logo
Hi David, Thank you for your question. There are a few parts that might cause this problem, however you should check your Radiant Flame Sensor to see if it is malfunctioning. This part senses heat from the igniter to monitor if it is hot enough to ignite gas to light the burner. Once the igniter is hot enough it will open the valve and allow gas to flow. This is a safety mechanism to prevent dangerous levels of gas from building up. I hope that helps!

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Fred
September 12, 2017
I replaced the thermostat but now i want to replace the coils. But i see nothing on videos or manuals that shows me where they are. Can you give me direction?
For model number MGD5640TQ0 Maytag Dryer
PartSelect logo
Hi Fred, Thank you for your inquiry. The coils are located on the bottom left hand front corner of your appliance. You will have to remove the front panel of your appliance to be able to get to it. Good luck with your repair.

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Mark
September 6, 2017
I just took out the coils from my older Maytag gas drier. I took ohm readings with my fluke meter. Both are reading zero resistance. Does this mean they are bad?
For model number LDG7600AAW
PartSelect logo
Hi Mark, Thank you for your question. The coils should be reading a resistance of 1000 - 2000 ohms. If it is zero, then your coils are bad. Good luck with your repair.

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Ramon
November 4, 2017
The igniter will glow, then the Flame comes on for about 10 seconds, then Flame and igniter will turn off. After about a minute that's off, the igniter will turn on again and the Flame will follow soon after but the Flame again will only stay for about 10 sec. And this cycle keep repeating. What could be the problem part?
For model number DG612
PartSelect logo
Hi Ramon. Thank you for the question. I suggest replacing or testing the Radiant Flame Sensor.If you test it with a Multi Meter it shoudl read closed. Hope this helps!

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Arnie
January 23, 2018
Dryer heats the first time. After that i hear a rattling sound and the ignitor glows, no gas to ignite so ignitor shuts down. The process repeats but no heat. Let the dryer sit idle for a while and it will heat again once or twice.. coils?
For model number LGA30AW
PartSelect logo
Hello Arnie, Thank you for your inquiry. Yes, that would be the part we would recommend replacing first. Hope this helps!

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Larry
October 13, 2017
I've been having problems with my timer advancing, and my heating doesn't turn on all the time.Could the coils for the gas be causing this?
For model number SDG305DAWW
PartSelect logo
Hi Larry, Thank you for the question. The 'M' Series New Style Coil Kit does work in line with the timer. I suggest replacing the coils first and if they do not fix the issue you may need to replace the timer. Hope this helps!

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