Range Broil Element WB44X173

This repair is very simple and only required about 15-20 minutes per unit. After turning off the power to your oven at the main breaker box, it's just a matter of removing two 1/4" screws and pulling out the units. The tricky part is removing the power plugs to the elements and not letting them slip back into the insulation. Once you plug in the new elements and screw them back in you are good to go. Once note, while you have everything out, it is a great opportunity to give your oven a good cleaning.

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I also removed a screw that held one end of a support bracket. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. Reversing these steps, I finished the element's replacement.

I had noticed that the former element was sagging at the front end. I installed the additional clips (not original) on each forward end of the element for additional support.

Successful repair to Our GE range, manufactured prior to 1965 (when installed in house). Pulled range from wall, unplugged, removed burned-out broiler element. Previous check with GE to make cross reference of range part number to Part-select part number for this nearly 50-year-old range. Obtained new part and installed. Works. Range has self-cleaning oven, accidentally destroyed thermal switch attached to element mounting bracket, difficulty with frozen mounting nut. Self-cleaning still works; thermal switch locks out a solenoid which defeats door latch; prevents premature opening of oven door when oven too hot to open safely. Internet search did not find GE part but there are generic devices of the same type available; will consider installation later.

The Baking elements takes 10-15 minute each but the Broil Element is a bit tricky as the screws holding the element is difficult to get to. I also used duct tape to temporarily hold the element to stay in place.

First I removed the two screws in the back. then I removed the two screws attached to the brace at the top. pulled the old element out. Removed the screws that attatced the wires to the element. Attached the wires to the new element. Pushed the wires back in. Pushed the element in and attached the screws. Reattached the support. Turned on the broiler. The element smoked for a few seconds before getting red hot. It is working fine.

Pull the stove out from the wall and unplug. Had to remove back of stove, the aluminum sheilding and the duct work to get at wires use nut driver. Then used nut driver to remove nuts from broiler unit inside stove. Take the front overn dover off first. The new part did not match up with the wires so I used a needle nose to spread the wire clips just a tad so they would fit over the tabs of the broiler unit. Do all of this behind the stove as you do not have eough wire to do this effectively from the oven side. After I had the tabs fitted to the broiler unit. I removed them and fed wires back through the stove. I then went back to the front of the stove and put the broiler back in and put support bar back in to ceiling of stove and the two nuts back on to affix broiler to back of oven. Put the aluminum baccking and duct work back onto the back of the stove and plugged it back in. Pretty easy job.

(1) Turned off power source.
(2) Removed rust on screw heads before attempting to loosening them up.
(3) Pulled the element out to expose the connections.
(4) Disconnected with phillips screw driver, taped off wires to prevent mixed-up during re-installation.
(5) Re-installed new element using new screws provided.

Turned off power at panellboard. Disconnected mounting hardware from inside oven chamber. Pulled failed heating element with wires attached into the oven chamber. Disconnected wiring and reconnected them to the new heating element. Tightened screws while holding connectors with pliers. Applied electrical tape to connections. Pushed wires back into opening and secured heating element back into place. Restored power nad verifed proper operation. The other heater purchased will be used when the bake element finally fails,

I'm a pharmacist and no handyman but this was extremely simple. Don't let a burned out element lead to a $1,000 purchase of a new oven. I removed 2 screws in the plate using a nut driver inside the oven where bake element exits the oven (keep sheet metal screws). Removed duct work from rear of oven to expose insulation where wires are attached to element using standard screw driver. Cleaned inside of unkown chemicals spewed out during fire. Inserted new bake element, screwed wires onto element from back (2 hot wires go on one side since it's 220). I tried to use the screws that came with the element but they didn't work so I was able to use the old sheet metal screws to secure the element to the inside of the oven. Replaced duct work on back. Done.

First I cut the power then I pulled the mounting screws, pulled hte elements out enough to get the screws out and then did it in reverse. Piece of cake.