Product Description
Run Capacitor Specifications
This part is attached to the compressor. It helps the compressor kick on and off while maintaining a constant temperature to keep things frozen in your freezer.
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Part Videos
Replacing your Frigidaire Refrigerator Run Capacitor
Troubleshooting
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Will Not Start | Fridge too warm | Freezer section too warm | Too warm
This part works with the following products:
Refrigerator, Freezer, Wine and Beverage Cooler.
This part works with the following products:
Frigidaire, Kenmore, Gibson, Crosley.
Part# 5304464438 replaces these:
AP4315853, 1381223, 5304464438, 216236200, 216236300, 216985003, 218719201, 218909901, 218909913, 3015552, 3017761, 3091424, 5303289028, 5303310070, 7218909913, 75304464438, F000300399, F300399
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Caroline C - November 22, 2021
Verified Purchase
Easy repair
Part arrived quickly and while it is not the same one as the original piece it works. I had to get the starter relay to go with it as it would not fit the old one and I also was not sure which one of the two pieces was the problem. Both parts in - clicking as stopped.
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Customer Repair Stories
Average Repair Rating: 4.2 / 5.0, 16 reviews.
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The controller (current relay) burned up
1. Unhooked a retaining wire that secures the controller to the compressor terminal box. 2. removed destroyed part. 3. Got the model and serial numbers and got online. 4. Ordered part 5. Waited a couple of weeks to get part 6. Found that the manufacturer had daisy chained a bunch of components together with some funny deep socket plugs that by themselves are not routinely found so rather than buy a laundry list of unnecessary parts to get the aforementioned plus and make my customer wait a couple of more weeks I chose to connect the wires to a couple of high temperature female stainless steel quick connectors and feed the wires directly into the controller. Fortunately the controller had the polarity marked on the housing. (L for Line was the hot lead and C was for common the neutral lead) Failure to follow proper polarity will damage the part and could kill the compressors's start wimding.
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Jim Meeks from Wimberly, TX
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
164 of 206 people
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Rear of upper shelf would freeze, while the rest of the freezer was dripping wet
We opened our freezer last week only to find the bottom 2/3 was barely cold, while only the rear of the upper shelf was cold. In fact, it was covered in frost, despite being a frost-free model. Our frozen veggies were slushy, not rock hard, and our frozen juices were all liquid. We defrosted the freezer, plugged it back in, but immediately noticed that we didn't hear the 'whhoooooosh' that you typically hear when you close the freezer door. After 30 minutes, the rear upper shelf was frosty again, but the rest was still at room temp. We figured the freezer was a goner, so we started looking at new freezers. I headed online to see if I could fix it, and I eventually found this site. I had learned online that these symptoms can be caused by either a bad capacitor, or a bad controller (which the capacitor plugs in to). I guess you can't necessarily tell which of the two parts is defective, so I chose to order/replace both of them. I ordered the correct parts from partselect.com, and they alerted me that Frigidaire has a new replacement part for the capacitor. When the parts arrived (quickly, ftw!), I unplugged the freezer and snipped the two wires leading to the controller. Next I unplugged the controller from the compressor housing. I spliced the replacement controller's wires into the freezer's wires (using my own wire nuts...as none were included with my order :( ). I snapped the new controller onto the compressor mounting, and then plugged the capacitor in. I plugged the freezer back in, and it was time for the moment of truth. The interior light of the freezer came on, and I could hear the compressor 'humming'. I could hear it humming before the repair, so the big test was to see if it got cold. I was nervous because the freezer DIDN'T make the 'whoooshing' noise right away, but after just an hour, the 'test' mug of water was already turning into ice. It was fixed!!!! If you have these symptoms, you CAN do this!!! Unplug the freezer. Cut two wires. Unplug the controller. Splice two wires. Plug in the new controller. Snap in the new capacitor. DONE!!!
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MARK from LIBERTY LAKE, WA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
68 of 81 people
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wouldnt freeze/compressor not running
Unplug cord. Remove the retaining clip. Remove the two wires by sticking small screwdriver in hole to release the clips holding the wires in. very easy took less than five minutes
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Anthony from Daleville, AL
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
56 of 77 people
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Extreme noise for 3 months, then not cold
Pulled the fridge from encloser, removed rear cardboard cover and found compressor in rear. The compressor, being very accessable, was easy to find the bad starter/capacitor. I removed the spring retainer, pulled the capacitor off the starter, removed the starter by pulling outward and replaced with new. All went well when the unit started and cooled as new. Some noise at times, but traced to icemaker. As time went by, that noise was gone.
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JAMES from LA MESA, CA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers
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Fridgerator shorted out. Smoke coming from back.
There was an accidental spill which seeped through the water-hose feed hole in the bottom of the fridge. The liquid had dripped down onto the Starter and Run Capacitor and shorted them out. I called an applicance repair shop to possibly get it fixed. They estimated around $500 with the service call, parts and labor. Not a chance was they getting that from me. So I unhooked the retaining wired and removed the burnt parts. I then looked up the part numbers and ordered the 2 parts I needed from Parts Select for $50 bucks including shipping. In just two days my order arrived. I installed the 2 parts the same way and as easily as I took them out. Now my fridge is running good as new. When my HUSBAND returned home from work he was stunned to see that I had done the repair without his help. He laughed and said, "Yep. You da' woman!"
Mrs. S.
Queens, NY
Mrs. S.
Queens, NY
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ELAINA from QUEENS VILLAGE, NY
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
23 of 24 people
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buttom of refrigerator not cold
unplug it, pulled compressor start relay,which i thing it was the problem, but i replace bolt, very easy.
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Giuseppe from brick, NJ
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
23 of 29 people
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Refrigerator quit running
I located the part that was the culprit as it had buzzed very much before quitting. This is an easy removal as the part is in a two prong jack and just needs to be carefully removed with the new part inserted back in the jack provided. The refrigerator works fine now, but the run capacitor will still buzz on start up of the compressor. I do hope this is normal in this model? anyway it runs fine mow. Thank you.
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Frederic from Daytona Beach, FL
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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would not freeze
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John from Virginia Beach, VA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
20 of 32 people
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Burnt start motor relay and capacitor
Super easy. That was super cool and saved me $500.00.
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Benjamin F. from West Falmouth, MA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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just quit working
Bought a new
capacitor.
capacitor.
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Denise from Lowell, MI
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
18 of 24 people
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Questions and Answers
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William
September 1, 2017
Not sure how to test run capacitor and start relay
For model number mfc15m4fw2
Hi William,
Thank you for your inquiry. You can test both of those parts with a multi-meter. Make sure after unplugging your capacitor you release any electrical charge. You can do this with a screwdriver that has an insulated handle. When testing your capacitor set your meter to 1000 ohms. If your meter stays on 0 then your capacitor needs to be replaced. For your start relay, set your meter to the lowest setting and calibrate it to 0. Your relay should be reading anywhere between 10 - 100 ohms. If it does not, then it is likely broken and needs to be replace. I hope that helps. Good luck with your repair.
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Bill
August 25, 2017
Chest freezer hasn't been used in a couple years. Plug it in and hear a soft hum but doesn't cool. Compressor not kicking on? Thanks
Hello Bill, thank you for contacting us. It does sounds like the compressor is not coming on, it may need a new start relay or run capacitor. You can test these with a multi-meter to determine which is at fault. Hope this help!
15 people found this helpful.
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Ted
April 8, 2018
Fridge seems to run all the time, ice maker,freezer and fridge seems to work ok, just runs a long time and sounds like the microwave.
For model number FRS6R5ESBS
Hello Ted, thank you for your question. The run capacitor helps the compressor kick on and off while maintaining a constant temperature in your fridge and freezer. Usually if the run capacitor goes bad the unit will not start at all. However, it is possible that it will run too often. In your case, the unit is running too much, which usually means the compressor is being signaled to start more often than it should. So, to determine the faulty part, there are some parts that you will want to check in regards to this issue. The Run Capacitor Part Number: 5304464438, the Defrost Thermostat Kit Part Number: 5303918214, the Temperature Control Part Number: 241537104 and Temperature Control Thermostat Part Number: 5304496561 and the Adaptive Defrost Control Board Part Number: 5303918476. There is some great information in regards to this issue at the following link, including testing information. I hope this helps!
https://www.partselect.com/Repair/Refrigerator/Running-Too-Long/
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James
August 24, 2017
The temp on my fridge and freezer went up to 32 on freezer and 60 on the fridge side. This lasted for 3 days then it went back to normal. I thought it might be the control panel but not sure.
For model number EI26SS55GS0
Hi James,
Thank you for the great question. We recommend starting with the Defrost Thermostat Kit. It is pretty common with previous customers when the temperature would rise. If you are not able to test the thermostat with a multi meter it is a pretty in expensive part and might be worth installing a new one to see if it fixes the issue.
Hope this helps!
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Robert
July 23, 2017
I'm getting a system code error of sy ce that is a system communication error. I've looked it up and it tells me it could be the controller board located at the bottom of the fridge. I have restarted the unit and alarm cam clear and ran fine for a couple days but now it's in again. The relay clicks on and off on the controller board do u think it's the starter capacitor or the board?
For model number FGHS2644KF1
Hi Robert,
That is a great question. The Frigidaire refrigerator Error Code SY CE: Communication error during powering up. – This error indicates a problem with wiring to and from the main control board and the user interface board. – Error can also mean the main control board or user interface board (display board) is defective or faulty. To verify what part may be causing the issue you may use an Ohms/Multi-meter to check the continuity of the parts. I hope this helps. Thank you and a have a great day!
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Danny
November 26, 2017
The refrigerator is beeping and the display for the fridge side reads too hot but the freezer side is working fine with a temperature of 0 degrees.
For model number FFUS2613LS0
Hi Danny, Thank you for the question. I suggest testing the Defrost Thermostat Kit.The best way to do this is to remove the thermostat from the refrigerator so you can control the temperature of the sensor. You can let the sensor warm up to room temperature. With the sensor warmed up to room temperature the sensor should read approximately 6.2K Ohms at 68°F. With the thermistor submerged is a glass full of ice water, the sensor should be very close to 32°F which should read approximately 16.3K Ohms. If the values that you are getting are far off from these readings, then the sensor is bad and should be replaced. Hope this helps!
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James
December 3, 2017
We left the freezer outside to melt the ice for couple of hours. Now I plugged it back in and it turned on for about 10 seconds, then we hear a click and it turned off and does not come back on. Do you have any suggestions?
For model number MFU14M2FW0
Hello James,
Thanks for your question. Due to the clicking noise, we suspect that the problem would be your compressor. Use a multi-meter to test the compressor for continuity, along with the start relay and run capacitor, and replace any of these parts if they are not showing continuity. Only a licensed technician should replace the compressor if that is the issue.
I hope this helps.
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Stacy
December 15, 2017
A few months ago, a thunderstorm fried our ice/water dispenser control panel. I replaced that, then a couple months ago the fridge would start beeping (4-beep intervals, we think), and fridge temp would read too warm. Unplugging the fridge would clear these. It started happening more frequently about a week ago, and we noticed the freezer getting warmer, ice and popsicles weren't staying frozen, then the water dispenser quit working. Now the fridge has stopped cooling completely and both fridge and freezer read 60 degrees. Advice?
For model number LFUS2613LP0
Hi Stacy, Thank you for the question. The board might need to be reset. Unplug your refrigerator from the outlet, and open there door for about 5 minutes. Plug it back in with the door still open, after you hear the beeping close the door. This should reset it. Hope this helps!
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Ron
October 16, 2017
My refrigerator runs ok, I have cleaned all lint and dust from coils. Bought and installed defrost timing kit. Still freezer section is too warm, fridge section stays cold enough, but freezer stays above freezing all the time. Maybe 38 degrees or so, water will not freeze. What parts would be best to try and replace?
For model number FRS6LF7FS4
Hi Ron, Thank you for the question. If the compressor is kicking on and off as normal I suggest replacing the Thermistor,PartSelect Number PS1146084. Hope this helps!
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Claire
March 19, 2018
I have had on-going issues with my icemaker. I was able to "jump it" a few times and it started making ice again. Recently it stopped making ice, and no amount of "jumping" starts it. I have replaced the water inlet valve, and i put on a new icemaker motor module. It is still not making ice. My question: If the run capacitor is bad, will the refrigerator and freezer still work, because they are fine. Could the run capacitor be the culprit for the icemaker not working? Thank you!
For model number WRS950SIAM00
Hi Claire,
Thank you for your question. The run capacitor helps the compressor kick on and off while maintaining a constant temperature in your fridge and freezer. You may need to replace your run capacitor if your refrigerator or freezer section will not start, if they are too warm, or if your refrigerator has become too noisy. If your ice maker is not working, check the arm to see if it is in the correct position, if you have tried replacing the other parts and nothing worked, you may have to replace the complete ice maker. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!
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Model Cross Reference
This part works with the following models:
PartSelect Number: PS2333670
Manufacturer Part Number: 5304464438
Manufacturer Part Number: 5304464438
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