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See part 110 in the diagram
( Grid squares measure 1x1 inch )

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THERMOSTAT

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PartSelect Number PS2321365
Manufacturer Part Number WB21X10148
Manufactured by GE
Product Description

THERMOSTAT Specifications

This part will trip once the inside of the cavity overheats and exceeds the recommended temperature.
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Troubleshooting
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Won’t turn on | No heat
This part works with the following products:
Microwave, Range.
This part works with the following products:
General Electric.
Part# WB21X10148 replaces these:
AP4344046, WB20X10020, WB27X10788
Questions and Answers

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9 questions answered by our experts.
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James
January 17, 2019
Is this t stat safety normally closed? I read the other safety is normally open.Part number wb21x10148 thank you
Hi James, Thank you for your question. The part should be Closed and when this part trips once the inside of the cavity overheats and exceeds the recommended temperature, then it is Open. We hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!

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Peter
December 23, 2017
This was working fine cooking a pot pie and then it just turned off. Do you have any suggestions?
For model number PVM9179SF2SS
Hello Peter, Thanks for your question. You may wish to test the door switch and thermostats for continuity with a multi-meter and replace them if they do not show continuity. If all of those parts are intact, consider replacing the control board. I hope this helps.

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ANGEL TORRES
January 14, 2018
My fan is running all the time ,i have change the 2 thermostas that are located behind the control board, i have replace the control board , i have left him running for more than ah hour to see if shut off but doest not , what and where could be the problem, thanks for your help.
For model number JNM3151RF1SS
Hello Angel, Thank you for your inquiry. I would check the fan motor and the door switches. You can test the parts with a multimeter. If you are unfamiliar with how a multimeter functions, there are YouTube videos available to assist you. Hope this helps!

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Ronald
January 20, 2018
My microwave fan continues to run after the heating is finished, food removed and door closed. The heating element still works. The vent fan button does not turn off the fan. I thought it might be a heat sensor defect, but comments in replacement instructions said microwave would not turn on if heat sensor was not working. Any suggestions?
For model number JNM1541DM1CC
Hello Ronald, Thanks for your question. This can arise due to the thermostat, door switches, or the control board itself. Unfortunately, only a licensed technician should test these parts due to the electrical charges that the microwave can have even with the unit unplugged. I hope this helps.

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Steve
February 25, 2018
The lights, fan, key pad and convention part of the oven are working. When i set the time to go on the for microwave the internal light goes on but the turntable doesn't spin and the heat does not come on. Any suggestions on what i need to replace? Thanks!
For model number PVM1790DR1WW
Hi Steve, Thank you for your question. There are some parts that you will need to check to see which one is causing the issue. You will need to check the line fuse, the halogen lamp, the terminal micro switch, the monitor switch, the thermostat and the diode cable. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!

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Steve
February 26, 2018
My apologies... my convection does not work : ( the lights, fan, key pad are working. When I set the time to go on the for microwave the internal light goes on but the turntable doesn't spin and the heat does not come on (we tried the convection over, it beeps to say ready but it never gets hot). any suggestions on what I need to replace? Thanks again! Steve for model number pvm1790dr1ww
For model number PVM1790DR1WW
Hi Steve, Thank you for the question. I suggest testing the door switches with a multimeter to check the continuity to determine of one of them are defective. Hope this helps!

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Eric
April 2, 2018
Yesterday the mwave had a large glass casserole cooking which was too big to turn on the turntable. Turntable was not turned off beforehand and eventually the mwave went "thunk" and completely shut off, blank control panel too. I tried replacing the 20a fuse, control panel powered up. Tried microwaving, it immediately went "thunk again and shut down. I didnt check, but assume the fuse was blown again. Any suggestions for next step?
For model number JVM1790BK01
Hello Eric, thank you for your question. I would recommend checking the fuse to see if its blown again. If it is, I would recommend testing the thermostat along with the fuse. If the fuse is not blown, the turntable motor might have failed. It would also be worthwhile to check the door switches as well. If the switches, fuse, and thermostat are replaced and the unit is not functioning the issue could be the electronic control board itself. I hope this helps!

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Carlos
March 8, 2022
Microwave lost power. I checked the outlet and there was power. Opened up the microwave and tested the thermostat (part 110) for continuity and got a reading. Tested the vent thermostat and it was “open”. Replaced the 20A fuse and the unit got power again. Tested the unit by turning it on for 10 seconds and it made a noise and los power again. Any suggestions or recommendations? Thank you.
For model number jvm1540sm2ss
Hello Carlos, thank you for contacting us. Part number PS1481237 will trip if the microwave gets too hot. To avoid unnecessary overheating please make sure there is adequate ventilation for your microwave oven by leaving at least 10cm of space behind and on the sides of the oven and at least 20cm of space on top. Where you have already tested the thermostat, we would recommend testing the door switches. You can test your door switches with a multimeter. First, unplug your microwave. Some door switches have only two metal prongs extending from the body, while others have three. Those with three terminals will have a common (COM) terminal, a normally closed (N.C.) terminal, and a normally open (N.O.) terminal. Those switches with only two terminals will have either a common terminal and a normally open terminal, or a common terminal and a normally closed terminal. We are providing directions for testing a door switch with three terminals. If you are dealing with a door switch that has only two terminals, ignore the part of this test that does not apply to you. Using caution, remove all wiring harness leads from the switch's terminals. Use your ohmmeter to test your switch for continuity. Begin by setting your ohmmeter to measure resistance at a scale of Rx1. If you are using an analog meter, touch the metal tips of the test leads together and zero your ohmmeter by adjusting the thumbwheel in the front of the meter until the needle reads '0' on the scale. Touch one meter lead to the COM terminal and the other lead to the N.O. terminal. Do not push in on the actuator. Your meter should give a reading of infinity, meaning the circuit is open, and there is no continuity. Without moving the meter's leads, press down on the actuator until you hear a 'click'. With the 'click' of the actuator, the meter should produce a resistance reading of zero ohms. This means the circuit is closed and continuity is present. (Switches with only two terminals do not 'click' when actuated) Keep the meter lead that is touching the COM terminal in place but move the other meter lead from the N.O. terminal to the N.C. terminal. You should receive a reading of infinity when you push in on the switch's actuator. When the actuator is released, you should receive a resistance reading of zero ohms. Now, set your ohmmeter to its highest resistance scale and touch one meter lead to the N.O. terminal and the other meter lead to the N.C. terminal. The resistance reading between these two leads should be infinite. Finally, take a resistance reading from both the N.C. terminal and the N.O. terminal to any metal mounting hardware that is a part of the switch assembly. You should receive a normal reading of infinity. Any readings that differ from the ones presented here are indicative of a defective door switch that will need to be replaced. Primary Door Interlock Switch part number PS237015 and Monitor Switch part number PS237409. We hope this helps. If you need help placing an order, our customer service is open 7 days a week. Please feel free to give us a call. We look forward to hearing from you!

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Ronald
19 days ago
my microwave's display is working but when I go to push express not happens. the timer does continue to count down the time left. It just dosest start.
For model number psb1201nss01
Hello Ronald, thank you for reaching out. We suggest that you check the fuse, door switches, thermostat, and display control board, for any damage and replace the defective component to resolve the problem in your microwave. Please reach out to customer service if you need help placing an order, anyone will be happy to assist you. We hope that helps.

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Customer Repair Stories
 Average Repair Rating: 2.8 / 5.0, 3 reviews. What's this?
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Sorry, we couldn't find any existing installation instruction that matched.
No power to microwave, no heating.
Unpluged power cord!! Removed front control panel to expose electronics (need to remove top horizontal vent cover to expose mounting hardware). Unplugged leads to control panel board. Removed magnetron with Tstat (3- phillip heads, need stubby). Installed new parts and control panel, plugged it in tested. Done.
Other Parts Used:
Microwave Magnetron
  • Michael from Coulterville, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
45 of 74 people found this instruction helpful.
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No Power
Check with Digital meter all connections.Find a Thermostat open loop.This thermostat is near the Megatron .
Other Parts Used:
  • Florentino from West Palm Beach, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
6 of 12 people found this instruction helpful.
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To heat a cup of coffee, user entered "10:00" instead of "1:00". Mess! After cleanup, microwave ran, but would not heat. While running, it made 2 or 3 time the noise volume as before.
I went for the cheap things first. Ohmmeter showed one of the thermostats in the magnetron compartment was open. I ordered and replaced all three thermostats. Still no heat. I took the unit off the wall (aaarrgh!) and checked the oven cavity thermal cutout. It said 7 ohms. I tested by shorting the wires together, but still no heat. So, I ordered the magnetron and diode cable. When replacing the diode cable (be sure to discharge the big cap!) either I broke it, or it was already damaged. It came off in two pieces. The new diode cable was re-enforced with thick heat shrink tubing, to prevent such breaking. You need a very short screwdriver to replace the magnetron. Now, all fixed! ~$150. A new one lists for $2000, installed in the overhead. My wife thinks I am a genius.
Other Parts Used:
  • G. Wayne from GARDNERVILLE, NV
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
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Model Cross Reference
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PartSelect Number: PS2321365
Manufacturer Part Number: WB21X10148
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