Ice and Water Dispenser Actuator Pad

Shut off power, removed the torx screws that hold the dispenser assembly to the freezer door, disconnected "ribbon cable" from keypad and removed the dispenser assembly to counter. Unhooked sides and removed rubber actuator pad, unscrewed limit switch, removed and disconnected 2 wires. Reversed the above with new actuator pad and limit switch. Total time about 20 minutes.

Pull out fridge and unplug
Remove drip tray from dispenseer
Unscrew face plate (star bit) 2 screws
Carefully disconnect wire strap from faceplate controls
Unscrew dispenser from chute - 3 screws and one is hddend next to actuator.
Carefully disconnect another wire strap to remove unit.
Remove actuator pad
Remove limit switch (i small philips screw)
Replace switch & pad
Re-assemble

Neither the actuator pad nor the limit switch appeared broken or worn but it appears to have solved the problem.

Not a terribly complicaed repair but you need to take care not to damage anything as you take apart. More work than just changing a filter or bulb.

Upon careful inspection, I found that the dispenser also would occasionally fail to shut off when dispensing whole or crushed ice, which led me to think that the problem was in the dispenser actuator rather than in the water solenoid or fountain switch control board. To inspect the actuator mechanism, I shut off power to the refrigerator, removed the escutcheon mounting screws, the escutcheon, the cable from the fountain switch control board, and finally the fountain bracket assembly. There was a small amount of hard water scale on the back of the actuator pad, but no groove in the plastic part of the pad that actuates the switch. I replaced the pad and switch (1 screw) and reassembled the dispenser. The dispenser no longer sticks and shuts off normally.

The actuator rubber pad had hardened over time so that it wouldn't allow the solenoid to retract and stop the flow. To fix: Turn off fuse to fridge. Removed the screws on fountain faceplate. Remove faceplate. Unscrew fountain computer assembly (2 or 3 screws) to access the actuator pad from behind. Unplugged the computer ribbon. Replace black actuator pad.

It works fine now.

Unplugged refrigerator. Removed 3 screws holding unit in place. Carefully disconnected the wire from the control face plate. removed existing ice dispense door and spring, disconnected lead from solenoid which controls ice dispenser door opening and closing. Removed 2 screws holding solenoid in place. Removed old solenoid and replaced with new one. Installed new ice dispenser door and spring. Replaced old actuator pad with new one and reassembled.
Repair was easy but unfortunately did not fix the problem. Subsequent tests indicate no power getting to the solenoid so I think I have a circuit board problem --

Followed the directions provided with the solenoid and door kit to replace solenoid, door and actuator. Replacing bracket was intuitive, just required transferring of parts from one to the other (miro-switch, cabling, light socket, and circuit board), and then installing the actuator pad on it.

Extremely easy as I had alread taken the unit apart before except for the removal of the multipin connector from old board. Necessary to break the old board connector in order to get it off.

Might be nice for you to supply simple replacement instructions with the more expensive parts.

My dryer will not say hot. When I turn on the dryer, the flame will turn on but seconds later it turns off. I researched through various sites on the internet and decided my gas coils needed to be replaced. Well, that didn't work so I am currently ordering a ignitor assembly to try and fix the problem......wish me luck