Product Description
Blower Wheel Specifications
This blower wheel does not come with a spring clamp, but it does have twenty fins and it is designed to fit a 3/8 of an inch motor shaft.
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Part Videos
Replacing your Maytag Dryer Blower Wheel
Troubleshooting
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Noisy
This part works with the following products:
Dryer, Washer Dryer Combo.
This part works with the following products:
Maytag, International.
Part# 33001790 replaces these:
AP4043265, 516674, 33001790
Customer Reviews
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Chris C - February 20, 2021
Verified Purchase
Working like new !
Part was easy to find and ordering is simple. Part shipped extremely fast and arrived two days later. Unfortunately the first part arrived broken in the box so had to be returned. That was easy to do as well. Money was returned and new one was ordered same day. Part arrived just as fast and machine repaired. Thanks ! If it wasn’t for a site like partselect we would of had to buy new appliances years ago!!
Richard N - August 28, 2018
Verified Purchase
The video helps a lot to make it straightforward.
Very noisy vibrating dryer. Removed the drum belt to see if the noise was from stuck drum rollers or a damaged drum. It was not. Removed the front assembly to expose the fan. Many blades on the fan were damaged... Almost looked like a rodent had chewed and eaten some of them! Fan was completely out of balance. Examined the warm air outlet and found two large walnuts in the exhaust pipe near the fan assembly! On examination the flap outside the house was stuck open and I guess a squirrel decided to store them there and they broke the fan blades being tossed around. Proceeded to change the outside wall fitting and clean the warm air pipe from all the lint (lots) while in there. Watch the video about the cir-clip on the motor shaft and the clamp clip on the fan molding to remove and reinstall properly. Also watch the video about changing the drum belt to reinstall properly.Straightforward but takes time.
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Customer Repair Stories
Average Repair Rating: 3.1 / 5.0, 5 reviews.
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Blower wheel broke
Replaced bower wheel, drum rollers,belt and Idler pulley while the dryer was apart. so far so good. Easy repair
Motor bearings seemed tight so hopefully will get another ten years out of dryer.
Motor bearings seemed tight so hopefully will get another ten years out of dryer.
Other Parts Used:
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Mary Beth from Lake St. Louis, MO
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
25 of 655 people
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loud noise inside dryer
After changing all the rollers in the dryer (which didn't fix the problem) I decided to take apart the blower. Sure enough, that was the problem. As the dryer heated up, the damaged wheel would swell and start rubbing the housing. I replaced both and fixed the problem. The repair was pretty easy, since I had taken the dryer apart several times replacing the rollers.
Other Parts Used:
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Terry from Caruthersville, MO
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers
15 of 18 people
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Blower wheel over time became clogged w/lint & caused the dryer to vibrate
Removed the dryer front, then detached the retainer ring holding the blower wheel in place. Set the new blower wheel, attached the new ring retainer and placed the dryer front back in place. Thank you for the low prices - I searched on-line at 3 sites and you were the best price available.
Other Parts Used:
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Carol from Onsted, MI
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
9 of 11 people
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Blower wheel had broken fins, motor bearings loose
This was fun! Kill the power!
Remove door, remove from panel, remove front drum support, remove drum and belt, remove blower cover, remove blower wheel, remove electrical connector from motor, take two clips off motor mount to remove motor. Put it all back in with new parts. 200 bucks and back in business. Go for it.
Bob
Remove door, remove from panel, remove front drum support, remove drum and belt, remove blower cover, remove blower wheel, remove electrical connector from motor, take two clips off motor mount to remove motor. Put it all back in with new parts. 200 bucks and back in business. Go for it.
Bob
Other Parts Used:
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Robert from Lebanon, PA
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
5 of 7 people
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Blower wheel was wobbly about the shaft, producing a lot of vibration and noise.
Tools required: Stubby socket wrench, 5/16" socket, 1/2" socket, 1/4" socket, #3 Phillips screwdriver, external circlip pliers, straight slip joint pliers. A decently strong electric screwdriver is highly recommended - Milwaukee 2401-20 M12 cordless 1/4" Hex Screwdriver, for example.
Unplug the dryer. Turn off the gas supply.
Remove the screws holding the door hinges to the dryer.
Remove the door and hinges from the dryer by pulling the door and hinges up, then out.
Remove the two plastic thingies (door stops), opposite of where the hinges were, from the front panel of the dryer. Each plastic piece is held in place by two screws.
Grasp the front panel by its top edge, pull it toward you, then lift the panel up and off the clips at the bottom.
There are a couple metal brackets holding the top of the dryer down to the front shroud (the doorway) and frame, one on either side. Each bracket is held in place by two screws. Remove the screws, remove the brackets, then rock the top panel up and back, like the hood of a car.
Remove the screws holding the shroud to the frame. Look carefully. There are two screws that look like they hold the shroud to the frame, but actually do not. Don't remove these screws yet.
Remove the screws holding the plastic duct / lint screen slot to the shroud. These are very long.
Disconnect the wires from the door switch.
Remove the shroud.
Remember the two screws I referenced previously, stating they shouldn't yet be removed? Now's the time to remove them. Do so, then set the panel aside, being careful not to damage any wires. Don't lose the rubber gasket sitting around the circular portion of the duct.
There's a metal cover over the blower wheel. This cover is held in place by a bunch of screws. Remove them all, then remove the cover.
Remove the circlip going around the blower shaft, in front of the blower wheel.
Remove the clamp from around the blower wheel and shaft.
Pull the blower wheel off the shaft.
Install the new blower wheel.
Reinstall the clamp around the blower wheel and shaft.
Reinstall the circlip.
Reinstall the metal blower cover.
Make sure the rear of the drum is resting on the wheels.
Now things become a little difficult, because you have to fight the drum a little bit. Put the panel containing the moisture sensor, front drum seal, and duct into position. (Be careful not to mess up the drum glides. Make sure the rubber seal at the bottom of the vent is in place, sealing the vent to the blower.) Screw the panel into place with two screws, but don't fully tighten yet.
There's a felt seal that is supposed to go between the rear lip of the drum and the rear inside wall. The seal is supposed to be held folded, pinched between the lip and the wall, with the edge of the seal being outside the drum. The seal isn't supposed to jut into the inside of the drum. Use your fingers and some other tool to push the rear felt drum seal out of the inside of the drum. If you use a screwdriver, be careful that you don't cut, rip, or otherwise damage the felt seal.
Do the same with the front felt drum seal.
Carefully inspect the felt seals. You don't want any portion of the seal somehow working its way back into the inside of the drum. Then verify again that the rubber seal that goes between the blower housing and the vent is in place and properly sealing. Now tighten the screws.
Connect the wires to the door switch on the shroud, then loosely screw the shroud in place. Screw the shroud to the vent. Once all the screws are in place, tighten all the screws.
Lower the top of the dryer into position.
Hook a bracket into one side of the lid, position the bracket over the front shroud, then screw in place.
Repeat with the other bracket.
Place the front panel onto the bottom clips. Seat the panel onto the clips all the way, then rock the panel forward into place.
Install the plastic door stops.
Insert the door hinges into their slots, push the door down to seat into place, then install the screws that hold the hinges in place.
Plug the dryer in, turn on the gas, test.
Unplug the dryer. Turn off the gas supply.
Remove the screws holding the door hinges to the dryer.
Remove the door and hinges from the dryer by pulling the door and hinges up, then out.
Remove the two plastic thingies (door stops), opposite of where the hinges were, from the front panel of the dryer. Each plastic piece is held in place by two screws.
Grasp the front panel by its top edge, pull it toward you, then lift the panel up and off the clips at the bottom.
There are a couple metal brackets holding the top of the dryer down to the front shroud (the doorway) and frame, one on either side. Each bracket is held in place by two screws. Remove the screws, remove the brackets, then rock the top panel up and back, like the hood of a car.
Remove the screws holding the shroud to the frame. Look carefully. There are two screws that look like they hold the shroud to the frame, but actually do not. Don't remove these screws yet.
Remove the screws holding the plastic duct / lint screen slot to the shroud. These are very long.
Disconnect the wires from the door switch.
Remove the shroud.
Remember the two screws I referenced previously, stating they shouldn't yet be removed? Now's the time to remove them. Do so, then set the panel aside, being careful not to damage any wires. Don't lose the rubber gasket sitting around the circular portion of the duct.
There's a metal cover over the blower wheel. This cover is held in place by a bunch of screws. Remove them all, then remove the cover.
Remove the circlip going around the blower shaft, in front of the blower wheel.
Remove the clamp from around the blower wheel and shaft.
Pull the blower wheel off the shaft.
Install the new blower wheel.
Reinstall the clamp around the blower wheel and shaft.
Reinstall the circlip.
Reinstall the metal blower cover.
Make sure the rear of the drum is resting on the wheels.
Now things become a little difficult, because you have to fight the drum a little bit. Put the panel containing the moisture sensor, front drum seal, and duct into position. (Be careful not to mess up the drum glides. Make sure the rubber seal at the bottom of the vent is in place, sealing the vent to the blower.) Screw the panel into place with two screws, but don't fully tighten yet.
There's a felt seal that is supposed to go between the rear lip of the drum and the rear inside wall. The seal is supposed to be held folded, pinched between the lip and the wall, with the edge of the seal being outside the drum. The seal isn't supposed to jut into the inside of the drum. Use your fingers and some other tool to push the rear felt drum seal out of the inside of the drum. If you use a screwdriver, be careful that you don't cut, rip, or otherwise damage the felt seal.
Do the same with the front felt drum seal.
Carefully inspect the felt seals. You don't want any portion of the seal somehow working its way back into the inside of the drum. Then verify again that the rubber seal that goes between the blower housing and the vent is in place and properly sealing. Now tighten the screws.
Connect the wires to the door switch on the shroud, then loosely screw the shroud in place. Screw the shroud to the vent. Once all the screws are in place, tighten all the screws.
Lower the top of the dryer into position.
Hook a bracket into one side of the lid, position the bracket over the front shroud, then screw in place.
Repeat with the other bracket.
Place the front panel onto the bottom clips. Seat the panel onto the clips all the way, then rock the panel forward into place.
Install the plastic door stops.
Insert the door hinges into their slots, push the door down to seat into place, then install the screws that hold the hinges in place.
Plug the dryer in, turn on the gas, test.
Other Parts Used:
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Christopher from SAN DIEGO, CA
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
-
Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
3 of 3 people
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Related Parts
Model Cross Reference
This part works with the following models:
PartSelect Number: PS2035614
Manufacturer Part Number: 33001790
Manufacturer Part Number: 33001790
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