Damper Pad Kit 203956

1: Disconnected all water and electrical connections.
2: Removed front panel.
3: Disconnected all wires leading from the control panel and removed the top of the washer.
4: Removed the springs that holds the drum down on the damper pads.
5: Flipped washer upside-down so the drum would hang from the bottom of the wash. This made it easy to clean the area since it was full of dirt and ground metal dust.
6: Glued new pads (per the instructions) to the cone that protrudes up from the bottom of the washer and allowed to dry.
7: Lubricated the pads with the provided grease and added additional silicon grease to insure smooth operation.
8: Replaced drive belt.
9: Flipped the washer back up-right and installed the drum springs.
10: Reconnected all wires and attached the top of the washer.
11: Reconnected all electrical and water lines and tested operation.
12: Replaced the front panel.

Washer now runs as quite and smooth as it did when it was new.

Damper kit and Springs corrected the problem. Follow the instrutions listed on this web site and all went well..The only problem was with the damper kit. The "kit" did not include the glue needed to replace the damper pads. This cost a delay on a day and trip to a local parts store that I did not want to make. So be sure to order glue for the damper pads.

After removing the two screws that hold the front panel in place , I could easily see the areas I needed to work in .Also , I removed the two screws securing the top panel and raised it a few inches . I saw how the damper pads were worn away . I removed the 3 dampering springs by removing the eyebolts and the base mounting nuts . After the dampering springs are removed , the washing drum can be lifted up off the bottom .Just lean the machine towards the rear and place a 4x4 lumber under the big pulley on the bottom and allow the machine to slowly come forward again resting on the lumber .I followed the instructions supplied and cleaned the excess dirt and debris away from the pad mounting areas . I applied the glue as instructed and allowed it to dry . A little dexterity was needed but the new pads easily went into position . After allowing a little more glue time ,I removed the 4x4 lumber from the bottom and lowered the machine .I installed new centering springs and tightened the eyebolts to thier original positions .I secured the top and the front panels and performed a couple test cycles . perfect , no vibration at all. like new . I replaced the two drive belts on the bottom because they had never been replaced and they definitely showed wear . Another test and I was completed in around 2 hours .

The instructions that came with the damper pads were pretty clear. I moved the washer to the garage so I had room to work and lay it over on it's back when I needed to. Of course, some water came out of the washer so have some towels.

There was a bit of a problem with unscrewing the nuts on the eyebolts. I expected a nut and a backing nut, but in fact the "backing" nut is attached. Took me a little while to figure that out.

The hint about the electrical tape was useful to be able to screw the nut back to the original position.

The only real problem was in putting the adhesive on the metal. It was too messy and hard to see, so I put the adhesive on the pad and when the glue was tacky, I placed the pad carefully on the metal. Getting the back pad properly placed required a mirror inside the cabinet. I let things dry for 2 hours before I put on the silicon grease.

Make sure all the electrical connections are in place before screwing the top back on. The hot water electrical connection came off during the work and I did not notice it until i was checking the operation of the washer...had to take the top off again and use long handled needle nose pliers to put it back on.

The washer works fine now....no squeaks.

The job is a little bit of a hassle, but just follow the instructions. It is within the capability of anyone who can turn a socket and poke a hole in the cap of the glue.

I followed the supplied directions to remove covers, unbolt tub springs, and expose the area needed to replace the damper pads. I cleaned the area with acetone and applied a rubber adhesive (not supplied). I used tire patch compound because that is what I had on-hand. I positioned the pads and after they had dried 1/2 hour, lubricated them with the supplied grease. I reassembled the washer and it is now smooth and well behaved.

Wish there was a video. I am above average handy but this one- I might just pay someone next time...The tape on the threads was a great tip but took a while to understand what they meant by putting tape on the threads. Scraping off the old pads is easy for the front one but the back pad and a half is so hard to reach to really get it cleaned. Bruised and cut knuckles on that one. Then not having the glue for the pads was a surprise and you have to get a good contact type cement that sets in 10-15 minutes or you will be waiting hours to put it back together. It was easy to put the first spring on, then the second and third got harder and harder.

This repair may seem daunting to your average non-professional repairman (certainly did for me) but, it's really not too bad. Additional items that you will find useful are a 4"x4"x12" block of wood, Acetone, Wire Brush, Sturdy Cloth, Gloves. First step is to disconnect the water and power and move washer to a suitable work area. Remove the front panel by removing the two screws located on the underside of the unit. Lift the front panel up and towards you from the bottom to free the top two clips, set panel aside. Once inside you will see that the tub is centered by three springs connected to eyelets that are bolted to the washer base. Mark the threads, then remove all three springs by removing the nuts from the underside of the washer, the tub is now free to move independent of the washer. Next you'll need to remove the two screws holding the top panel/Lid to the sides (be careful as this will greatly affect the washers overall rigidity). Once removed, carefully tilt the washer back just enough to slide the 4x4x12 block of wood underneath the main drive pulley connected to the bottom of the tub. Set the washer back down and the tub will now be propped up on the wood, exposing the damper pads on the washer base. Tear off the old pads and clean ALL residual glue using the acetone, wire brush and cloth. It's key to have a clean, smooth, and dry surface for the new pads to work properly. Once clean apply the new pads using the high temp glue and supplied instructions. I recommend applying one pad at a time as it requires a bit of dexterity. Don't slather the glue all around like I did or you'll be in a race against the clock to adjust them before the glue sets. I waited 4hrs for the glue to set, then applied the provided lube to each pad and re-assembled the washer in reverse order using the new springs. Be sure to check that your belts are still properly attached as the block of wood may have affected them. Finally, I checked and adjusted the leveling legs, Re-conneted water and power and gave it a test run. Washer runs great! 15+ loads with smooth operation and no more shakes or wobbles.

The instructions were clear. Did every step. Did 2 loads so far and everything works like new.

I put everything back together like video and then did a small wash. The agitation cycle was gone! haha.....it was in a slow rotation and no agitation at all. The video guy seems to turn pulley wheel all the way clockwise till it bottoms out on brake and then he says to put the lug stop washer and screw it in 1/4" to 3/8" behind the tab on pulley and put screw in w/ lock washer. I watched other videos and figured out that was way too much turning on the pulley. I then unscrewed pulley and hand rotated it back on to the point where it barely start to make contact with brake and then I put the lug stop about almost 1/2" back, attached screw and lock washer and gave it a test and wallah! all good!.

I watched a video on you tube repair videos and the repair went fairly easy. But I missed a part near the end of the video and placed a part too close to the shaft and it would not go into the spin mode. After watching the video again I was able to move the part 1/4" and it now works as good as new.