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Replacing your Amana Refrigerator Defrost Thermostat Kit play video
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Defrost Thermostat Kit

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6 Reviews
$74.67   In Stock

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 Fits your 59662212200!
 Fits your 59662212200!
PartSelect Number PS2003451
Manufacturer Part Number 12001937
Manufactured by Whirlpool
Product Description

Defrost Thermostat Kit Specifications

This part is snapped onto the top portion of the evaporator. The thermostat sends temperature information to the processor. The defrost heater must be replaced when replacing the thermostat.
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Troubleshooting
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Fridge too warm | Freezer not defrosting | Freezer section too warm | Freezer too cold
This part works with the following products:
Refrigerator.
This part works with the following products:
Amana, Kenmore, Maytag, Whirlpool.
Part# 12001937 replaces these:
AP4009073, 1023500, 12001937, 12001937, 67001202, 67002571, 8170904
Questions and Answers

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7 questions answered by our experts.
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Kirk
January 4, 2018
My refrigerator and freezer are too cold and the thermostat adjustment inside the refrigerator compartment will not adjust the temperature any warmer (i.E. The refrigerator compartment is too cold). Would the defrost thermostat be an appropriate part replacement for this issue or should I look at another solution?
For model number ARB2217CSR
Hi Kirk, Thank you for the question. I suggest testing the thermostat. The best way to do this is to remove the thermostat from the refrigerator so you can control the temperature of the sensor. You can let the sensor warm up to room temperature. With the sensor warmed up to room temperature the sensor should read approximately 6.2K Ohms at 68°F. With the thermistor submerged is a glass full of ice water, the sensor should be very close to 32°F which should read approximately 16.3K Ohms. If the values that you are getting are far off from these readings, then the sensor is bad and should be replaced. Hope this helps!

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David
March 4, 2019
The door to the fridge was cracked open unknowingly for several days and now the refrigerator is cooler than room temperature but is not cold. The freezer is working correctly. From online research, which i'm not sure is correctly, it seems like the fan that is supposed to circulate the air from the freezer to the fridge is probably broken. Which is the part that i need to purchase and replace. Thank you.
For model number ABC2037DEQ
Hello David, thank you for your question. Yes, the fan motor should move air through from the freezer to the fridge. If the freezer is cold but the fridge is warm we would recommend testing/replacing the evaporator fan motor, damper, damper and thermistor. We would also recommend testing the defrost thermostat, heater and electronic board. I hope this helps.

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Ai
July 10, 2019
Why does the defrost heater need to be replaced when replacing the defrost thermostat ?
For model number MBB2256GES
Hello Ai, thank you for your question. I don't believe the heater HAS to be replaced as well, but sometimes both parts can fail at the same time. To be sure you don't need the heater, test it before placing the order. Set your multitester to the R X 1 scale. Place the tester's leads on one terminal each. This should produce a reading anywhere in between zero and infinity. If your multitester produces a reading of zero, or a reading of infinity, then your defrost heater should most definitely be replaced. There are many different kinds of elements, and so it is difficult to say what exactly the reading should be for your defrost heater. But it definitely should not be zero or infinity. If it is, replace the mechanism. I hope this helps!

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Marcus
November 16, 2018
The defrost thermostat kit apply to this refrigerator? Someone said there is a board. That replaces this and cost $250
Hello Marcus, Thank you for the question. Checking the model number, I am showing the appliance takes both the thermostat and the board, PartSelect Number: PS11738538.Thank you for your inquiry, good luck with this repair!

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Gian
June 17, 2021
Il frigorifero funziona bene però si interrompe il compressore così all'improvviso aprendo la porta del frigo riparte e torna in temperatura si interrompe senza apparente motivo quando funziona il freezer arriva anche tranquillamente a -19 gradi così si spegne all'improvviso e trovo produttore di ghiaccio pieno d'acqua anzi acqua ghiacciata secondo me punto di vista potrebbe essere la scheda elettronica che non fa il suo dovere
For model number G32026PEKS
Ciao Gian, grazie per la domanda. Suggeriamo di controllare il termistore. Puoi testare il termistore per vedere se è difettoso. La resistenza del termistore nell'unità dovrebbe essere di 2,7K ohm a 77 gradi. Spero questo sia di aiuto!
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Rodolphe
July 6, 2021
My fridge is freezing my fresh food content, although I put the temperature controller in the lowest mark. So is this piece will help in my problem. Thank you
For model number 59662222200
Hi Rodolphe, Thank you for the question. I suggest testing the thermostat. The best way to do this is to remove the thermostat from the refrigerator so you can control the temperature of the sensor. You can let the sensor warm up to room temperature. With the sensor warmed up to room temperature the sensor should read approximately 6.2K Ohms at 68°F. With the thermistor submerged is a glass full of ice water, the sensor should be very close to 32°F which should read approximately 16.3K Ohms. If the values that you are getting are far off from these readings, then the sensor is bad and should be replaced. Hope this helps!
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Michel
November 8, 2021
Can you tell me what is the temperature spec on this thermostat: PS2003451, the original part I need to replace is 45-30f thanks
For model number PDS22SBNBS
Hello Michel, thank you for your question. This defrost thermostat opens at 42°F and closes at 30°F. We hope this helps.

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Part Videos

Replacing your Amana Refrigerator Defrost Thermostat Kit

Replacing your Amana Refrigerator Defrost Thermostat Kit play video
Customer Repair Stories
 Average Repair Rating: 3.7 / 5.0, 13 reviews. What's this?
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Freezer not defrosting
Removed shelf drawer. Then removed plastic coverings from back panel of freezer. Squeezed tabs of ice maker connector to push it behind the back panel. With nut driver, removed the four screws holding the panel and removed the panel. Used a hair dryer to remove frost from upper right area that contains the defrost thermostat. Cut out the thermostat and removed the connector on the right from the defrost heater. Removed brown wire from a few of the clips. Attached orange wire from new thermostat to orange wire leading to connector removed from defrost heater and the brown wires to each other using the pliers and supplied crimpable wire nuts. Wrapped the connections with self fusing tape. Reconnected the wiring to the defrost heater and clipped the new defrost thermostat to where the defective one was removed. Used the hair dryer to melt the ice that was covering the drain, then a turkey baster to unclogg the drain. Put everything back together.
Other Parts Used:
  • james from southampton, PA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers
76 of 90 people found this instruction helpful.
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Freezer cold, refrigerator warm
For the timer, I removed the upper light panel in the refrigerator with a screwdriver and the defrost timer is just plugged in. Easy fix, however most websites were saying it was located down by the kickplate. The thermostat was I think was te real culprit of my problem. I removed the back plate of the freezer after removing the pullout drawers. It just took four screws. The vent/grill just pops out if squeeze it to one side and slide out the other. Then swivel out door. Note that I do not have the ice maker installed in mine so yours may have a another step. I unplugged the refrigerator at this point and grabbed my blow dryer. I melted all the ice that had formed on condenser. The thermostat is located to the right of the fan. Unclip old thermostat and snip wires with enough slack to attach new one. Attach with wire nuts, reclip and start moving in reverse back to the beginning. 7days and no problems!
Other Parts Used:
Defrost Timer - 120V 60Hz
  • Michael from Encinitas, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
57 of 61 people found this instruction helpful.
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Defrost failed. Freezer icing up
(FYI, Amana model is re-labeled Maytag with similar model number)I earlier replaced the defrost timer but that didn't solve the problem, so I purchased a new thermostat and evaporator heater. The hardest part was figuring out how to remove the slide out freezer door to access the back panel. Simple once figured out: There is one small screw on each slide rail, facing outward, near the door. Remove each screw and the door section will pivot up and disconnect from the rail.

The next thing you have to do is remove one of the slide rail supports so you can remove the back panel. Slide the track all the way out and you will see three small machine screws securing the track to the side of the freezer wall. Remove. Then push in the plastic clasp (near the back of the compartment) and slide the plastic assembly forward and out of the compartment. Now you can unscrew and remove the back panel to access the thermostat and heater.

I checked the resistance of the existing heater and measured 300 ohms (it would have been an open circuit if it was burned out). When I saw the resistance was OK on the heater, I left it in place and only changed out the thermostat. The defrost has worked fine since. Good luck.
Other Parts Used:
Defrost/Evaporator Heater
  • James from Chestnut Hill, MA
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
33 of 41 people found this instruction helpful.
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Auto defrost not working
Found the coils in the freezer frosted up and no cold air getting to the refrig compartment. I first replaced the defrost timer but should have checked with a volt meter as it turned out that it was a thermostat on the coils in the freezer that was faulty, it actually had a visable defect, it was bulged out. I think that this thermostat prevents the defrost heater from over heating the coils. Replaced the defrost timer an this thermostat and all is good now.
Other Parts Used:
  • Charles from Pasadena, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
20 of 24 people found this instruction helpful.
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Freezer too cold with frost along the back wall and fridge warm.
Removed the ice maker. Removed the screws holding the back panel in place. Unplugged the fridge, cut the wires for the defrost thermostat and installed the new thermostat with the connectors provided. For anyone with a similar problem, I would recommend getting a multi-tester and testing the Defrost timer, defrost thermostat, and defrost heater all the same time according to the directions on this site. Then order the parts that are bad and be up and running in no time.
Other Parts Used:
  • Thomas from Marietta, GA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
16 of 19 people found this instruction helpful.
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Freezer didn't defrost
I removed the back panel. I used my hair dryer to remove the build up ice. Then I removed the old thermostat, spliced the wires to install the new thermostat, and crimped the wires. I saved $150 doing it myself. If you know how to splice and crimp wires, you can do this; even a caveman can do it.
Other Parts Used:
  • Charlene from Baltimore, MD
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
15 of 19 people found this instruction helpful.
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Fridge was warm.
Removed timer. Tested timer with a continuity tester-seemed ok. Checked heater element-30 ohms-checked ok. Defrost thermostat measured 53k ohms when it was cold or warm. Should be open at room temperature and closed when cold. Part Select recommended changing the heater when you replace the thermostat. I was not able to slide the heating element out of freezer coils without removing coils. Put the old element back in. Seems to work ok. Thanks.
Other Parts Used:
Defrost/Evaporator Heater
  • Chris from Barto, PA
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
15 of 20 people found this instruction helpful.
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Defrost thermostat failed causing ice build up
Once I figured out where the part was located it was quite simple. I thawed out the freezer first. Using a nut driver, I removed all the screws to the back panel of freezer. Squeezed the clips on the ice maker attachment to release the panel. Once I opened the panel the thermostat was visible and accessible. The failed thermostat was obvious by its bulging appearance. By following the instructions found on Partselect.com, I cut the two connecting wires and removed the failed part. I then striped some insulator from the wires to connect the new part. I used electrical tape to ensure connection and insulation as the white wire connectors did not work well (too big) for my application. Closed everything back up, plugged in refer and all was good. A little time and a $20 part saved me $150. Thanks Part Select!
Other Parts Used:
  • Gwen from Vista, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
11 of 15 people found this instruction helpful.
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Defrost not working
There were three parts in question, the defrost timer (inside the casing near the control dial at the top of the refridgerator), the defrost thermostat (behind the back wall of the freezer), and the heater coil (ditto). We tested the defrost timer by opening it up, advancing it to the defrost cycle, and waiting for the compressor to start up again, showing that the timer was working. Then we replaced the defrost thermostat and found that the heater coil worked.

The hardest part was figuring out how to open the casing and get to the timer. If I do it over again I will replace the $20 thermostat first and then deal with the timer if necessary. To get to the thermostat you can easily take the freezer door off by removing two screws in the door tracks. There was even an arrow pointing to one of the screws! Take out the food trays and then unscrew the back wall with a nut driver. The thermostat was clipped to one of the copper freezer tubes. I unplugged one end of the thermostat circuit at the lead to the heater coil and then cut the thermostat out of the circuit and used wire nuts to connect the new thermostat.
Other Parts Used:
  • Glenn from Santa Rosa, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
11 of 15 people found this instruction helpful.
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evaporator coil in freezer section fozen solid, refer not cool
To remove freezer door, push white tabs, inside rail toward back, remove door and rails as one unit. Unscrew plastic rail support on one side, remove ice maker, then back panel. Cut off thermostat, strip old leads, match colors, twist copper wires together, then crimp on new part using connectors provided. Reassemble, hardest part was figuring out how to remove freezer door. Check for continuity between heater lead and white terminal of icemaker plug just to make sure the heater is good while everything is apart.
Other Parts Used:
  • Michael from Tucson, AZ
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
10 of 16 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer Reviews
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Related Parts
Model Cross Reference
This part works with the following models:
PartSelect Number: PS2003451
Manufacturer Part Number: 12001937
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Description
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