IGNTR-OVEN W11596211

First I removed the lower tray and all parts covering the ignitor on the upper oven. 2. Then I removed the screws holding down the ignitor and flame distributor. 3. I then had to pull out the oven from the wall and remove the back panel to expose the wires connecting the ignitor. This required the removal of about six screws but they were fairly easy to get to. 4. I disconnected the ignitor from the back panel then went around to the front of the oven and pulled out the ignitor and all of the attached parts. 5. Here's the tricky part. The screws holding the ignitor in place had fused from the heat and then the threads stripped when I tried to remove them. I had to use a dremel tool and cutting wheel to carefully cut the screws off and then went to buy some replacement screws from the hardware store. 6. I replaced them with a nut and a bolt, to hopefully avoid the same problem for later replacement if necessary. 7. I then replaced everything the same way it came out and all is working like new!

Lifted door off hinges; removed lower oven spill plate; unmounted bake igniter from heat shield; pulled stove away from wall; removed rear access panels (4 screws); unplugged bake igniter; installed new part; vacuumed behind stove and mopped floor (this took more time than installing the part); oven is back in cookie baking mode!

removed panel from back 4 screws. unplugged ignitor wire to lower level of upper oven, top wire is for broiler.Slid oven door off its hinges(very heavy)removed wire rack removed 2 screws from bottom pan lifted out,lifted off burner guard, looks like it may have had nuts to hold it down at one time , mine were missing. lifted out burner assembly. removed 2 screws holding down ignitor, they stripped out had to drill holes slightly larger and install new one with screws and nuts I had on hand. Used long screw driver pushed in from behind to guide ignitor wire back thru the insulation. reinstalled everything in reverse and it worked like a new. $50 part part saved us $2000, we were looking at replacing it with a new oven but we really liked what we had. Very satisfied, and wont hesitate to tackle next repair job with help from this web site.

easy-peasy remove small panel on back
disconnect in the back of range-oven "orange wire"
unscrew igniter from burner inside oven
remove and replace with new one
slide wire thru hole in back of oven
reconnect---u r done
dave

Remove door, racks, unplug, remove lower burner cover two screws, the burner tube deflector pan two wingnuts, the burner tube. With igniter attached, remove back of range 4 screws to expose connector to igniter, unplug then remove burner tube, then igniter, replace igniter feed through back of oven wall and reconnect igniter reverse process and its done

Removed old ingniter with screwdriver. Installed new igniter, but had to remove connector in order to electrically connect using twist on connectors.

You Tube!!! Didn’t find my exact oven, but watching a couple of videos was extremely helpful. Replacing the igniter was basically simple, but since it was a first for me, I took my time. Probably saved $200. The part was just over $100.

Replaced Igniter, only problem was the connector was in the back of the unit. I had to take off the back of the unit. About 12 small hex screws to make connection. Other than that it was pretty easy.

Pull out unit from wall in order to access back panel.
Unplug and turn off gas.
Remove the entire back panel (there is no small access panel like there is on other units. You must remove the whole back panel.)
Open the top oven door and remove rack, then remove the bottom heat shield, unscrew igniter.
Unplug the igniter from the back of the range. If you don't what wire it is have someone jiggle the wire from inside the top over while you look from the back of the range.
Pull out igniter.
Perform all steps again in reverse.

Just removed the shield (2 wing nuts) than the burner (1 Screw). THe back needs to be removed to unplug the igniter. I than reversed the process until I got to the plug and found that I had 2 male ends. I than had to remove everything and go back to square one until I find the part with the correct end (which should be Female) I'd check this before getting too deep into the repair.