Dispenser Door Solenoid Assembly
$86.53
Special Order
PartSelect Number
PS1483583
Manufacturer Part Number
WR62X10055
Manufactured by
GE
Product Description
Dispenser Door Solenoid Assembly Specifications
This part is a possible option when ice door won't open or shut properly or when water is not dispensing.
How Buying OEM Parts Can Save You Time and Money
Part Videos
Replacing your General Electric Refrigerator Dispenser Door Solenoid Assembly
Troubleshooting
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Ice maker won’t dispense ice | Not dispensing water | Door won’t open or close | Door Sweating
This part works with the following products:
Refrigerator.
This part works with the following products:
General Electric, Hotpoint, Kenmore.
Part# WR62X10055 replaces these:
AP3963333, 1194707, WR62X10055, 203C6017G001, WR62X10020
Customer Repair Stories
Average Repair Rating: 3.8 / 5.0, 99 reviews.
What's this?
- < Prev
- 1
- 2
- 3
- Next >
Sort by:
Search filter:
Clear Filter
Your search term must have 3 or more characters.
Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Sorry, we couldn't find any existing installation instruction that matched.
flap to ice dispenser would not close
The flap to the ice dispenser would not close, which allowed the ice dispenser to frost up, freezing the water dispenser.
This was a simple fix. The solenoid had stopped working, so it would not automatically close the door flap. I read some posts on this site that suggest that you had to remove the trim around the entire dispenser to get at the solenoid. My fridge may be a newer model, but in any event it was much easier than that. Just below the touch pad for choosing water, ice, or crushed ice (above where the ice/water dispenses) there are three very small holes spaced about an inch a part. After unplugging the fridge, I stuck a small philips-head screw driver in each, freeing spring clips. That allowed the touch pad to come off. I then removed four screws to remove a plastic piece covering the chute, giving me access to the flap and solenoid. I just unplugged the solenoid from the circuit board on the back of the touch pad and then removed three screws to remove the old solenoid. I replaced it with the new solenoid and plugged it into the circuit board. The touch pad then snapped back into place.
The hardest part was figuring out how to get at the solenoid. After I found that pushing the clips in those three holes allowed me to remove the touch pad, it could not be any easier.
This was a simple fix. The solenoid had stopped working, so it would not automatically close the door flap. I read some posts on this site that suggest that you had to remove the trim around the entire dispenser to get at the solenoid. My fridge may be a newer model, but in any event it was much easier than that. Just below the touch pad for choosing water, ice, or crushed ice (above where the ice/water dispenses) there are three very small holes spaced about an inch a part. After unplugging the fridge, I stuck a small philips-head screw driver in each, freeing spring clips. That allowed the touch pad to come off. I then removed four screws to remove a plastic piece covering the chute, giving me access to the flap and solenoid. I just unplugged the solenoid from the circuit board on the back of the touch pad and then removed three screws to remove the old solenoid. I replaced it with the new solenoid and plugged it into the circuit board. The touch pad then snapped back into place.
The hardest part was figuring out how to get at the solenoid. After I found that pushing the clips in those three holes allowed me to remove the touch pad, it could not be any easier.
Other Parts Used:
-
Bill from Cleveland Heights, OH
-
Difficulty Level:Easy
-
Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
-
Tools:Screw drivers
420 of 485 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Flapper Door Stuck Open Allowing Ice Tube To Frost Shut
I read in a previous post how to do the job from outside fridge which saved me lots of time. No need to remove inner door lining. Here is my procedure:
1.Turned off power. 2.Snapped off outside trim ring. 3.Located three small holes inside lip just above ice tube. The center hole was not used. 4.Pushed rather firmly up through two remaining holes with small Allen wrench to release front control panel. 5.Removed (3) wire connectors from printed circuit board. Firmly pull/pry them straight out as lifting on retaining clip will break it off. I broke one & had to elect. tape it back in place later although I doubt it would have ever come off. 6.Release secondary panel by removing (4) screws. The problem was obvious as the solenoid had broken the crank arm off the flapper rod & trapped it open 7.Replaced solenoid, crank arm with flapper attached, spring & micro switch. Switch was okay but I changed anyway. 8.Cleaned all areas with 1/10 bleach water to sanitize. 9.Re-installed evrything in reverse order & all is okay. Thanks to someone for telling about those two small holes. Made job easy versus a very hard one.
1.Turned off power. 2.Snapped off outside trim ring. 3.Located three small holes inside lip just above ice tube. The center hole was not used. 4.Pushed rather firmly up through two remaining holes with small Allen wrench to release front control panel. 5.Removed (3) wire connectors from printed circuit board. Firmly pull/pry them straight out as lifting on retaining clip will break it off. I broke one & had to elect. tape it back in place later although I doubt it would have ever come off. 6.Release secondary panel by removing (4) screws. The problem was obvious as the solenoid had broken the crank arm off the flapper rod & trapped it open 7.Replaced solenoid, crank arm with flapper attached, spring & micro switch. Switch was okay but I changed anyway. 8.Cleaned all areas with 1/10 bleach water to sanitize. 9.Re-installed evrything in reverse order & all is okay. Thanks to someone for telling about those two small holes. Made job easy versus a very hard one.
Other Parts Used:
-
Joe from Maryville, TN
-
Difficulty Level:Easy
-
Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
-
Tools:Screw drivers, Wrench set
165 of 221 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Ice Chute Flapper not closing causing water dripping to floor and ice chute freezing up solid
I followed the video instructions for replacing the Flapper Valve and solenoid that Part Select suggested. It was one of the best DIY Reapair Sites I've used. Thank you
Other Parts Used:
-
James from Malabar, FL
-
Difficulty Level:Easy
-
Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
-
Tools:Screw drivers
132 of 182 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
ice and water would not dispense at door
first I snapped out control face plate on outside of door. removed the screws for each part,and unplugged the wires at the connectors, replaced new parts and plugged in connectors to new circuit board.I decided to replace the board,switch and solenoid all at the same time, not knowing which part was bad.I have to say it was well worth it! it works better than when it was new!!!! It was a lot easier than I thought it was going to be.
Other Parts Used:
-
carl from vacaville, CA
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
-
Tools:Screw drivers
95 of 145 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Ice door would not open far enough, ice would get stuck in chute
First remove about 30 screws w/nutdriver that are hidden under door seal then inside of freezer door will come off. Second remove about 10 screws that hold dispenser assy to the inside of door, then support the unit with tape so you don't damage the wires that connect it. Third, pop touchpad loose, then remove three sets of wires plugged into the circuit board. Fourth, remove four screws that hold the ice chute and light assy. Fifth, now remove the 3 screws that hold solenoid. These three screws that hold the solenoid will be very rusty, you may want to replace these also. I went ahead and replaced all the related parts because they are so hard to get to. Also took the opportunity to clean in here with bleach to remove all the black mold and rust.
NOTE: when reassembling the inside of the freezer door to the outside of the door you must loosely attach the door on both sides in the middle first, then the top and bottom. Add some more screws on each side and tighten them all. Now you must check to be sure that the door is not racked. If the door is not sealed at the top or bottom, loosen the screws and twist the door a little and tighten screws and check door again for proper seal. Spent more time adjusting door to seal right than doing the actual repair.
NOTE: when reassembling the inside of the freezer door to the outside of the door you must loosely attach the door on both sides in the middle first, then the top and bottom. Add some more screws on each side and tighten them all. Now you must check to be sure that the door is not racked. If the door is not sealed at the top or bottom, loosen the screws and twist the door a little and tighten screws and check door again for proper seal. Spent more time adjusting door to seal right than doing the actual repair.
Other Parts Used:
-
ERIC from MADISON, AL
-
Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
-
Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
-
Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
73 of 133 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Recessed door on ice dispenser would stay open causing the freezer to frost up
I inserted the tip of a very small screwdriver from a eye glass repair kit into the three small holes under the panel near where the ice is dispensed. I never would have known about this simple procedure if it wasn't for the feedback you post from your parts cumtomers. Once I did this the front panel with the buttons on it poped off and it was just a matter of removing a few screws at that point. The wires from the new solenoid easily plugged into the board on the front panel. I would recommend changing the screws at the same time. The old one's worked but they were rusty. I feel the solenoid was my only problem but I changed all the parts in between the dispenser door and the solenoid just to be sure.
Other Parts Used:
-
Turcotte's Housing Service, In from Newmarket, NH
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
-
Tools:Screw drivers
70 of 92 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Ice buildup in the door of freezer
Pulled the ice/water control panel off using the three holes under the lip. Pops off pretty easy. Next came 4 screws holding the chute for the ice. Two bottom screws were very rusty, top two look brand new. Watch the wires. Replace the solenoid assembly by unplugging wires leading to the board, then removed the plunger over the top of the hook on the far right. Went ahead and replaced the dispenser door assembly or flapper. Plugged refridge back in and pressed the ice dispenser handle and listened for the solenoid to cycle. Perfect. There is a little delay before you hear the flapper fall into place. Saving rest of parts just in case they are needed next time.Thanks to everyone who wrote in to show how easy it would be. No telling how much a repairman would have charged me.
Other Parts Used:
-
Walt from Alabaster, AL
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
-
Tools:Screw drivers
66 of 88 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Ice cube production stopped; ice cube chute door is seized.
Problem: I have a black colored GE 24.9 cubic inch side-by-side refrigerator, model #GSH25KGMCBB that I purchased new in 2002. The ice cube maker stopped supplying ice cubes and the ice dispenser door stopped operating.
Repair: Unplugged refrigerator first and shut off the house water supply valve. Removed the lower rear access cover and replaced the double solenoid water valve. Icemaker and water dispenser tubing are easily removed by pushing in and holding down the white plastic collar where the tubing is inserted into each port on the valve body; no tools required to release the tubing. Hint: When reconnecting the water outlet tubing, ensure the tube diameter matches the port on the valve body. Insert each tube by hand back into the ports of the valve until they firmly seated.
Removed the control panel by inserting a small screwdriver into the three holes located on the bottom of the control panel body. Removed all of the ice dispenser door hardware and the door solenoid. The door solenoid armature was seized by corrosion. Cleaned off all of the accumulated dirt and mold with a 1:10 ratio solution of bleach and water. Replaced all of the door recess and solenoid valve fasteners with my own stainless steel #4-40 thread, 0.25" long socket head screws for longer life. The installation of the remaining hardware is the reverse of how it was removed.
The installation looks very clean now and $150 later, the ice maker still doesn't produce ice!
Root-cause analysis: I disconnected the ice cube maker water supply line from the double solenoid valve at the rear of the refrigerator and was able to blow air with my mouth straight through the outlet of the water tubing located inside of the freezer compartment; to ensure it wasn't blocked. Verified the water supply valve is not being energized! Turns out that the blinking green LED indicator on the ice cube maker is indicating more than the troubleshooting guide does about that because the white colored insulated conductor in the electrical harness for the ice cube maker is not energizing the solenoid on the water supply valve!
Conclusion: the ice cube maker assembly is next on the list of replacement parts!!
Repair: Unplugged refrigerator first and shut off the house water supply valve. Removed the lower rear access cover and replaced the double solenoid water valve. Icemaker and water dispenser tubing are easily removed by pushing in and holding down the white plastic collar where the tubing is inserted into each port on the valve body; no tools required to release the tubing. Hint: When reconnecting the water outlet tubing, ensure the tube diameter matches the port on the valve body. Insert each tube by hand back into the ports of the valve until they firmly seated.
Removed the control panel by inserting a small screwdriver into the three holes located on the bottom of the control panel body. Removed all of the ice dispenser door hardware and the door solenoid. The door solenoid armature was seized by corrosion. Cleaned off all of the accumulated dirt and mold with a 1:10 ratio solution of bleach and water. Replaced all of the door recess and solenoid valve fasteners with my own stainless steel #4-40 thread, 0.25" long socket head screws for longer life. The installation of the remaining hardware is the reverse of how it was removed.
The installation looks very clean now and $150 later, the ice maker still doesn't produce ice!
Root-cause analysis: I disconnected the ice cube maker water supply line from the double solenoid valve at the rear of the refrigerator and was able to blow air with my mouth straight through the outlet of the water tubing located inside of the freezer compartment; to ensure it wasn't blocked. Verified the water supply valve is not being energized! Turns out that the blinking green LED indicator on the ice cube maker is indicating more than the troubleshooting guide does about that because the white colored insulated conductor in the electrical harness for the ice cube maker is not energizing the solenoid on the water supply valve!
Conclusion: the ice cube maker assembly is next on the list of replacement parts!!
Other Parts Used:
-
Bruce from Mebane, NC
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
-
Tools:Screw drivers, Socket set
41 of 59 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
The compartment behind control panel with snow
I have unlock the black panel. With a screw driver I have removed 2 screws and removed 3 conectors from circuit board. So, I had access to solenoid set. From this point on was intuitive. Very easy.
I recomend these parts be replaced once time for each two years.
I recomend these parts be replaced once time for each two years.
Other Parts Used:
-
Victor from Houston, TX
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
-
Tools:Screw drivers
40 of 61 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
ice despenser door would stick open and frost up to the point of of ice not coming out
after finding the video describing the same problem, i gave it a shot. Major problem was figuring out how to take outside trim off of the ice/water dispenser. Everything i tried did not work like the videos i had seen. Looking thru some of the posted blogs i found another way to get behind the control panel without even taking off the trim piece. i pressed a 1/8th allen wrench into the two outer holes on the bottom of the control panel which released the panel to pull out from the bottom. after that it was simple to release the three plugs from the circuit board and remove the control panel. 4 phi lips screws later the ice chute comes straight out revealing the flapper door which is held in by 2 more screws. once that assembly is out the solenoid is held by three more screws. there was nothing difficult at all about this repair once the secret was out about the first step about the three holes (use only the outer two) in the bottom of the control panel
Other Parts Used:
-
joe from raleigh, NC
-
Difficulty Level:Easy
-
Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
-
Tools:Screw drivers
35 of 47 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- < Prev
- 1
- 2
- 3
- Next >
Questions and Answers
Ask our experts a question about this part and we'll get back to you as soon as possible!
- < Prev
- 1
- 2
- 3
- Next >
Sort by:
Search filter:
Clear Filter
Your search term must have 3 or more characters.
Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Sorry, we couldn't find any existing answers that matched.Try using some different or simpler keywords, or submit your new question by using the "Ask a Question" button above!
Robert
September 14, 2017
How does the door solenoid assembly work . I replaced the flapper because it didn't close properly. Now it sometimes closes. Does the solenoid operate the flapper. Do l need a new spring for the flapper assembly? Almost hopeless help.
For model number GSS25QGMDWW
Hi Robert,
Thank you for the question. Yes the solenoid is what controls the flapper and opens and closes it when dispensing ice. Unless you can see physical damage or wear to the spring it can be reused with the new flapper and solenoid.
Hope this helps!
21 people found this helpful.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Latorius Mccray
July 31, 2017
I can only get crushed ice from the door dispenser.
For model number gss20Ietabb
Hi Latorius,
Thank you for the great question.Try to pull your ice bin out and check the opening where the gold or brass colored rod enter. There is a solenoid part number PS1483583 inside that should actuate and move the bucket arm in order to dispense cubes. Stick your finger in there and to get it to drop down. The solenoid may be damaged, or just frozen in place. Once it drops down leave the freezer door open, actuate the door switch with your finger, while pressing the ice lever in the dispenser. Make sure you have selected cube. If the solenoid is working will go up then back down when you release the lever. If not, then you will need to remove the housing and see if it is full of frost. The solenoid shaft must move freely in order to work properly. They can also rust with time and prevent the free movement.
Hope this helps!
15 people found this helpful.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Robert
August 3, 2017
My refrigerator does not dispense ice or water. It makes plenty of ice, but does not dispense. Could this be the problem with part number ps 1483583, dispenser door solenoid, or ps 1483583, micro switch? Or something else? What do you suggest? I don't want to order more parts than i need.
For model number ZFSB26DNDSS
Hi Robert,
Thank you for your inquiry. It actually could be either of those parts. What I would suggest is that you test them with a multi-meter and see if either of them are malfunctioning. Usually it is more likely that the dispenser solenoid is the problem, however you can test them to make sure. I hope this helps!
11 people found this helpful.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Art
November 11, 2017
I have problems with freezer door ice maker dispenser flapper not closing - question ? Is this caused by faulty solenoid valve? Should i replace and what is cost of part? Thank you
For model number DSHF5PGXAEWW
Hi Art,
Thank you for your question. It could be your solenoid. I would suggest also just taking a quick look at the spring and the housing that holds your door. Sometimes it is just a simple break in a piece there that will keep that door from closing properly. If you do not see any physical damage, you can test your solenoid to see if it is broken or not with a multi meter. The price of the part is up above in the part information. Good luck with your repair.
10 people found this helpful.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Warren
April 21, 2018
Recently replaced filter. Now water flows from the dispenser without pressing on the switch. Replaced the micro switch but it did not stop. It seems the valve is stuck open. Any other parts to try replacing.
For model number PSDF3YGXBFWW
Hello Warren, thank you for your question. Yes, if the water valve is dispensing water without pressing the switch, and you have already changed the micro switch, I would recommend replacing the water valve. If the water valve is stuck open the water will continue to dispense. I hope this helps!
9 people found this helpful.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Johnny
August 26, 2017
Will not dispense water.
For model number HSM25GFRASA
Hello Johnny, thank you for contacting us. It is possible that it could be the dispenser solenoid. You also may want to check the inlet water valve as well. Hope this helps!
7 people found this helpful.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Chris
August 5, 2018
Is there a way i can prevent the solenoid assembly from freezing up or rusting up??? it seems ive relpaced this bit about 3 times already.
For model number GE gss23wgtabb
Hi Chris,
Thank you for your question. If the solenoid assembly is freezing or rusting, make sure that the dispenser door is closing and sealing properly. Also, check to see if there is frost build-up, by removing the ice bin. If the solenoid is rusting, there may be some spillage or splash from the water dispenser. Try using a thin coat of vegetable oil on the dispenser door to help prevent the door from rusting. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!
7 people found this helpful.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Russell
August 14, 2017
Have a small water leak at the water dispenser. When we close the valve a little water will continue to leak.
For model number GCL22QGTESV
Hi Russell,
Thank you for your inquiry. That could just be the water that is still in the line. I would suggest testing your water inlet valve to see if it is working correctly. Otherwise you might have to look at your water line and see if there is a leak somewhere. Good luck with your repair.
6 people found this helpful.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Glenda
January 26, 2018
First ,we are only getting crushed ice and maybe a cube every once in a while. Is it the solenoid or maybe something else.Also our ice makes more ice than we use in any given day. I usually bag it and put it in the deep freeze. It seems to freeze up around the end where the blades are and where the rod is in the back.How can i adjust it to make less ice. Please help .
For model number GSH22JFTEBB
Hello Glenda, Thank you for your inquiry. I would test your water inlet valve and ice maker for continuity to see if too much water is going to the ice maker. Too much ice buildup can also clog the dispenser flap and make it so that only the crushed ice is getting through and not the bigger cubes. Try taking the bucket out and checking for any obstructions and clearing any trapped ice away. You can test the valve with a multimeter. There are also tests online for your ice maker as well. If you are unfamiliar with how a multimeter functions, there are YouTube videos available to assist you. Hope this helps!
4 people found this helpful.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
CARMEN
March 15, 2018
When water or ice is dispensed the chute does not automatically close
For model number FPHS2699PF2
Hi Carmen,
Thank you for your question. If the chute is not closing after the water or ice is dispensed, the issue may be with the actuator or the micro switch. The actuator is a possible option when ice door won't open or shut properly or when water or is not dispensing. The switch helps control the functions of the dispenser and you may want to test the micro switch with a multimeter to check for electrical continuity, and replace it if it shows no continuity. Also examine the water tank and and the water line connectors for any signs of wear and tear. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!
3 people found this helpful.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
- < Prev
- 1
- 2
- 3
- Next >
✖
Ask a Question
Ask our experts a question on this part and we'll respond as soon as we can.
Sorry, we couldn't find a match for "".
Here's a guide for finding your model number.
Something went wrong. Please try again later.
Your Question Has Been Submitted!
Our experts will send you an email as soon as your question has been answered.
Related Parts
Model Cross Reference
This part works with the following models:
PartSelect Number: PS1483583
Manufacturer Part Number: WR62X10055
Manufacturer Part Number: WR62X10055
Brand
Model Number
Description