Ball Bearing

disassembled the top and front installed the shipping bolts in the tub back housing, removed the rear bolt on the stator and removed the shell the magnets have some strong pull, had to split the plastic inner tub in half, removed the 2 lower front shocks and then removed the inner drum,, both bearings and the seal were bad, drove out inner bearing and seal with bearing driver about 2 ft. long and then drove out the rear bearing, cleaned bore and installed new bearings and seal, the spider on the back of the inner drum was damaged from rust damage in the seal area, replaced with new part and reassembled the hardest thing was the 2 side springs, broke one of the plastic noise brackets will order another, got the rest of the washer back together , will install the top after replacing spring noise bracket., block of wood and car spring pliers for rear brakes would probably be easier for the spring install. .Took about 6 hours to disassemble and install new parts. The repair manual was ok for top and front disassembly but no further info on removing the other parts. Used common sense for the rest, used to repair garbage trucks.

I followed the 35 min video on front loader bearing and seal replacement to a T. I went step by step pausing the video as the technician completed the task. It took 5 hours for me to complete which included the cleanup time. I am extremely happy how this turned out. It runs as good as a new machine. I did however find that our particular machine had an extremely large amount of mildew and mold inside the outer tub casing and attached to the spider arm. More than likely after seeing all this mold when it comes time for the next repair we will probably buy a new top loader. The repair parts and video were perfect! Thanks for the help. Local repair company recommended to me to just buy a new washer when I inquired about them repairing.