Part Location Diagram of WP8318268 Whirlpool Cycling Thermostat
See part 9 in the diagram
Replacing your Whirlpool Dryer Cycling Thermostat
( Grid squares measure 1x1 inch )
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Cycling Thermostat

$101.45
  In Stock
PartSelect Number PS11745959
Manufacturer Part Number WP8318268
Manufactured by Whirlpool
Product Description

Cycling Thermostat Specifications

This thermostat has an internal heater L155-25F. This thermostat controls the internal drying temperature.
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Part Videos

Replacing your Whirlpool Dryer Cycling Thermostat

Replacing your Whirlpool Dryer Cycling Thermostat
Troubleshooting
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Too hot | Not Heating
This part works with the following products:
Dryer.
This part works with the following products:
Whirlpool, Maytag, Kenmore, Crosley.
Part# WP8318268 replaces these:
AP6012744, 3977425, 3977706, 8318268
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Customer Repair Stories
 Average Repair Rating: 3.5 / 5.0, 12 reviews. What's this?
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Sorry, we couldn't find any existing installation instruction that matched.
gas dryer not heating up.
First removed front and drum to check gas valve and igniter. No gas, no ignition. Checked power to devices; none (check hot line to ground, not to neutral.). Removed back of control panel looking for a relay or something. Found none, but did find a wiring diagram. That is where the site really came in handy. Studied wiring diagram together with the exploded view and pictures of each part to come up with a troubleshooting plan. Took the back off as well as a cover inside. Tested each part with meter, again going to ground and not across the device. Of course, the final device before the gas valve, a one time thermal fuse, was the bad part. At first assumed just a bad part. Later wondered if fuse did it's job and another part was bad. Ordered and installed new thermostat just in case. Put everything together after a complete cleaning and everything is fine so far. Not a particularly hard job because I had the wiring diagram and access to parts select site. Would have been much harder without them. Took a long time because almost the entire dryer had to come apart. But it got a good cleaning because of it and found a couple of bucks in change to help offset the cost. Can't imagine what a service call would have cost.
Other Parts Used:
Dryer Thermal Fuse
  • JOSEPH from PUTNAM VALLEY, NY
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
524 of 576 people found this instruction helpful.
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The dry was getting hot but not for long, then not at all.
Once the coils for the gas valve got hot they failed and shut the gas vavle off, we ended up changing the coils which fixed the problem but part select held up there end of shipping out these parts which we could not get localy. so if your dry ignites some time and or not for long its either these coils or the cycling thermostat which will casue the same conditions because the the cycling thermostat controls the coil. good luck!
Other Parts Used:
Thermal Cut-Off Fuse Kit
  • brendan from brick q, NJ
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Socket set
29 of 49 people found this instruction helpful.
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took to long to dry/ no heat
after reading your site reviews I bought all 3 thermostat's. It took about 30 minutes (with a coffee break) to change them all out and that saved me $400.00. I popped the lower front pannel off and all three thermostat's were accessable from there. i needed to remove the lent trap and tube which is held on by 2 screws to access the thermal fuse and cycling thermostat. there was a lot of lint trapped in the tube. it was a few screws and some spade connectors. very easy repair. as I said above buy all 3 and it saved me $400.00.
Other Parts Used:
Thermal Cut-Off Fuse Kit Dryer Thermal Fuse
  • Michael from Mission Viejo, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Socket set
15 of 18 people found this instruction helpful.
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Stopped in mid-cycle. Would not restart.
PartSelect.com rocks! Watched the online videos and did what he did. Labeled wires so that I wouldn't switch them when re-connecting new parts. Although only the fuse may have been bad, I decided to replace the cycling thermostat as well, since others implied that they work in concert, and a defective thermostat could have triggered the fuse failure. Also, looked outside and saw that landscapers had recently piled mulch all the way up to dryer vent. (Could this have caused the parts to fail?) So for less than $45 (parts + standard shipping), the dryer works like new. Happy wife makes happy life.
Other Parts Used:
Dryer Thermal Fuse
  • Jeffrey from Allentown, PA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
7 of 10 people found this instruction helpful.
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Gas dryer no heat.
You tube video for info. Using a multi-meter check for resistance on thermal fuse. it was open. take a picture of electrical component wiring before disassembly or draw a picture then mark wires with numbers to identify position. Before starting make sure to unplug the power cord. Have to remove the back cover 8 screws, Also it was suggested to replace the thermostat so i did. It may have caused the over heat condition. Replace the 2 parts,3 mounting screws and 6 wires. Put it back together and tested it. Dryer now works.
Other Parts Used:
Dryer Thermal Fuse
  • jeff from ISHPEMING, MI
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
6 of 10 people found this instruction helpful.
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Dryer would not go
Replaced fuse but new fuse immediately blew.
Put in new fuse and thermostat. So far OK after 2 days running dryer.
Other Parts Used:
Dryer Thermal Fuse
  • John from MARSHFIELD, MA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Very Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
5 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
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Dryer would start, and get warm, but not keep warm.
First watched a youtube video on the process. Took off front cover. I'd already replaced a belt so I knew what to expect. Two screws holding the retaining plate on top of Coil Valves (both). One screw was a bit seized, so a bit of persuasion w/ the pliers was in order. There was no info on which way up, but luckily I noticed a bump on each valve, and two matching holes on the retaining plate. (Note to others trying this) Of course while re-assembling a dropped and temporarily lost a screw, then one of the machine screws that hold the front cover on, but other than my stupidity, and frustration that job was easy. The cycling thermostat I just got "just in case". I knew the main thermostat was working, but couldn't accurately check this one, so I got a spare and replaced it. I'm sure it was one of the valve coils as I'd read another user had an issue where the coil would work fine at first, but after it got hot would not work. After a cool down, it'd work fine again. So all in all, easy job.
Other Parts Used:
M Series New Style Coil Kit
  • John from Parsippany, NJ
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
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Dryer was not heating
The cycling thermostat was found to be not working when I checked it with a ohm meter. I ordered the part waited and installed it and it work just fine.
Other Parts Used:
  • Janet from FLINT, MI
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
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Dryer drum would spin, but dryer would only remain warm a few seconds, then flame would shut off.
After replacing many, many parts the dryer still does not work! Replaced Thermo Fuse, Thermostate, Cycling Thermostat, Coils, Ingition Sensor and Ignitor. Ran meters across all incoming power, timer control, ignitor power, etc. all check out according to schematic. Incoming gas supply is functioning. So, 6 parts recommended later still same problem. On the good side, all parts were shipped out very quickly. Highly impressed with service.
Other Parts Used:
  • Kelly from Carlsbad, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
3 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
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blown thermal fuse
Watched video. Walked right through it.
Other Parts Used:
Dryer Thermal Fuse
  • roger from HIGHLAND, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Very Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Socket set
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
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Questions and Answers

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12 questions answered by our experts.
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Shou
December 30, 2017
Should i be getting continuity between the two leads with the purple wires on the bias thermostat?
For model number MEDX655DW1
PartSelect logo
Hello Shou, Thank you for your inquiry. You should see a reading of close to 0 ohms on a multimeter if the thermostat has continuity. I have included a video on how to test dryer parts with a multimeter, the principle is the same for the thermostat. Hope this helps! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JvI84Qa8Jc4

18 people found this helpful.

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FG
April 30, 2018
The original part calls for wp8318268 but when i google that i also get part wp3387134. Are both parts the same and inter-changeable? I mean can i use wp3387134 if the original that came with the dryer is the wp8318268 thanks
For model number GEQ8831LL0
PartSelect logo
Hello, Thank you for your question. The 2 parts are not interchangeable. The part number listed under your model number for the thermal fuse is WP8318268. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!

6 people found this helpful.

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Todd
January 12, 2020
Should there be continuity between the contacts that receive the purple wires? Would this part be responsible for the dryer stopping mid cycle
For model number WGD49STBW2
PartSelect logo
Hi Todd, Thank you for your question. You should see a reading of close to 0 ohms on a multi-meter if the thermostat has continuity. We have included a video on how to test the dryer parts with a multi-meter, the principle is the same for the thermostat, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JvI84Qa8Jc4. We hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!

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Alex
December 18, 2019
Hello, my exhaust temperatures (Max) seem to be about the same regardless of the temperature switch selection: 66f air fluff, 152 160f extra low, 156 159f low, and 162 165f high. On each temperature selection the heating element cycles on and off (as heard with click and watching temps fall to ~110f). I assume a continuity test of the the internal bias thermostat would show that there's continuity at room temperature. Would the diagnostic be to heat it slowly and show it never loses continuity? How does the temp control switch interact with the thermostat? That is, how does the thermostat know to open at lower or higher temperatures? Is there a chance my temperature selection switch is bad? How do you test it? Thanks!
For model number LEQ9508PW1
PartSelect logo
Hello Alex and thanks for writing. It certainly sounds more like a faulty heating element PS334313 check for signs of damage and replace it if needed. We hope this helps. Please contact us anytime. Yes, you are doing the test of the thermostat right. For more specialized tech assistance or to speak with someone about this, we would suggest calling the manufacturer of the unit directly. Whirlpool US 866-698-2538

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Joshua
June 27, 2019
My dryer keeps blowing the thermal fuse, I have already replaced the thermal cut off kit ps334299, but still runs only around 30mins before blowing the fuse
For model number MEDX655DW1
PartSelect logo
Hello Joshua, Thank you for the question. When replacing the fuse you should also replace the Internal-Bias Thermostat, PartSelect Number PS11745959. When one blows it will effect the other. Hope this helps!

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John
December 10, 2019
I have a problem, my machine won`t start and i am trying to find some help. I have only spent 5 days troubleshooting.
For model number WGD4900XW1
PartSelect logo
Hello John and thanks for writing. Did you check the breakers in the panel box? It should be a double breaker. Next would be the dryer thermal fuse # PS11741460, next the door switch # PS11741701, then the drive motor # PS334304. We hope this helps. Please contact us anytime.

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Alex
December 19, 2019
Following up from my earlier question: Per your recommendation i checked the heating element. There were no visible breaks, continuity breaks, or shorts. I tested the thermal fuse, thermal cut-off, and high limit thermostat. All showed continuity. Re: The internal-bias thermostat, it showed continuity at room temperature. I don't have a regulated heat plate, but used my stove and instant read thermometer. The thermostat seemed to cycle between ~130 and 170f. I also tried testing the resistance of the temperature selector using the violet and blue wires and it seemed to change as it should. When i put the thermostat back on the dryer and checked exhaust gases it rose to about 130f on extra low (better than before), but then cycled lower and seem to go beyond the 130f the following time. So, the overheat seems sporadic. Could the internal-bias thermostat be on its way out? Such that it turned off the heating element the first time at proper temp, then got stuck open, and then the heating element cycled on the high limit switch?
For model number LEQ9508PW1
PartSelect logo
Good Day Alex. Thank you for your question in regards to your unit (Model Number LEQ9508PW1). We do apologize but we were not able to locate the information you requested. For more specialized assistance or to speak with someone about this, we recommend calling the manufacturer of the equipment directly. They can be reached at by phone by calling 866-698-2538. Best Regards.

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Jeff
May 25, 2022
My dryer continues to supply considerable heat even when the temperature is set to air only or when in cool down mode. I recently replaced the thermo fuse that was blown. What do I need to replace to properly regulate the temperature? Thanks!
For model number WED4900XW0
PartSelect logo
Hello Jeff, Thank you for the question. We suggest testing the Thermal Cut-Off Kit. The thermal cut-off prevents the dryer from overheating. You would have to replace that parts if there is no continuity. If you need help placing an order, customer service is open 7 days a week. Please feel free to give us a call. We look forward to hearing from you!

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Brayden
May 1, 2023
Dryer runs on high heat despite temperature setting, cycling thermostat cycles on and off around 160, bias heater coil reads 4.8kohms and the purple leads from the temperature switch read open circuit on air fluff and high heat but read two different ohm readings on low and medium heat. Cycling thermostat has a rattle to it when lightly shaken. Would it still be considered a cycling thermostat issue?
For model number medc465hw0
PartSelect logo
Hi Brayden, thank you for reaching out. Based on the description that you have provided, we would recommend checking the high-limit thermostat, part number PS11742185, and replacing it if necessary. We hope this sorts out your problem!

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Kip
December 9, 2023
Dryer will work sometimes but heating element does not come on everytime . I have checked all sensors,heat element and temp limit sensors all have continuity through them. Do you have an idea of what is not working right?
For model number WED5000DW2
PartSelect logo
Hello Kip, thank you for your inquiry. Make sure you are getting 220 volts and not just 110 volts. The dryer will run with 110 volts, but it will not heat without 220 volts. As for testing for 220 volts, test between the 2 outside power wires at the terminal block, part number PS11741489, on the back of the dryer where the power cord connects to the dryer. You should have 220 volts between the 2 outside power wires. We hope this solves your problem!

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Model Cross Reference
This part works with the following models:
PartSelect Number: PS11745959
Manufacturer Part Number: WP8318268
Brand
Model Number
Description
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Kenmore
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