Part Location Diagram of WP6-3033630 Whirlpool Idler Pulley Arm
See part 11 in the diagram
( Grid squares measure 1x1 inch )
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Idler Pulley Arm

$76.15
  In Stock
PartSelect Number PS11743027
Manufacturer Part Number WP6-3033630
Manufactured by Whirlpool
Product Description

Idler Pulley Arm Specifications

A dryer's idler pulley wheel serves to help the belt to rotate the drum. This arm is what attaches to the idler pulley wheel.
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Troubleshooting
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Noisy
This part works with the following products:
Dryer, Washer Dryer Combo.
This part works with the following products:
Maytag, Jenn-Air, International.
Part# WP6-3033630 replaces these:
AP6009854, 3-3363, 303363, 6-3033630, Y303363
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Customer Repair Stories
 Average Repair Rating: 2.6 / 5.0, 6 reviews. What's this?
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Sorry, we couldn't find any existing installation instruction that matched.
Original problem: Blower fan came loose from the motor shaft.belt and was making a noise clothes were slow drying. Second problem appear upon inspection: idler pulley bracket shaft severely worn.
Replacing the blower fan took way too long, like 4 hrs, because I didn't know how to disassemble the dryer and get to the problem. Replacing the idler bracket and assorted retaining rings and washers was fast, something like 1 hour. Disconnect the power cord, exhaust hose, and gas line. Remove two screws at the bottom of the face of the machine, unplug the electrical harness to the door light, switch and ground and remove the front of the machine. Remove the access panel at the back of the machine and remove the belt from the idler pulley. Remove the four screws holding the front drum support assembly and remove the drum. Replace some old retaining rings and the spring washers on the drum support rollers. Around back assemble the idler pulley assembly with some new washers and the old roller which seemed in good condition. Put it all back together. About one hour.
Other Parts Used:
Idler Pulley Shaft Washer Retaining Ring Idler Arm Screw Sleeve Drum Roller Shaft Washer
  • adriel from sylmar, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
17 of 22 people found this instruction helpful.
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Sqeeky / sqealing dryer
Took off face of dryer (two lower screws below door in front) and then removed the drum which gave me access to the idler arm and idler pully. Vaccumed the interior to remove dust and lint. Replaced idler arm and idler pulley assembly. Replace old belt as drum was reinstalled. Opened rear access panel to complete final routing of the new belt over idler pulley and drive motor. Turned the machine on to check repairs and function. Closed rear access door. Pushed dryer back into place and re-leveled machine.
Other Parts Used:
Tumbler and Motor Belt Idler Pulley Shaft Washer Idler Pulley Wheel Idler Arm Screw Sleeve Idler Shaft Retaining Ring
  • Jeffrey from Gloucester, VA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
14 of 18 people found this instruction helpful.
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old was belt stretched and idler pulley gummed up, drum won't tumble a normal sized load
Replaced all the parts per the very good video provided on the website.
I recommend watching the video very closely several times. BE SURE THE BELT IS NOT IN THE DRUM'S GROOVE. The video mentions this very very briefly; I caught it on my third viewing. If your belt is not the correct location, it may still turn the drum for you - and eat the belt up in about an hour.
Other Parts Used:
Tumbler and Motor Belt Idler Pulley Shaft Washer Idler Pulley Wheel Idler Arm Screw Sleeve
  • William from ORANGEBURG, SC
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Socket set
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
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After a period of the dryer not being used, the idler pulley wheel froze up on the shaft of the idler pulley arm.
This should have been a simple repair, but turned out to be time consuming and moderately difficult. I hope these instructions will help anyone who encounters the problems described here.

After a period of the dryer not being used, the idler pulley wheel froze on the shaft of the idler pulley arm, so I needed to replace both parts. After mounting the new wheel and two washers on the new arm and securing with a retaining ring, I went to install this assembly by going in through the small access panel at the rear of the dryer. I slid the belt off the old idler pulley wheel and unhooked the spring from the idler pulley arm; the arm was mounted on a sleeve fastened to the motor bracket by one screw. All that should have been necessary was to back out that screw and replace the old idler pulley assembly with the new one.

That is where the trouble started. Backing out the screw with a socket driver, I found it would go a few turns, then start to bind. I tried turning it in and out to get the threads to engage, but it kept binding. Eventually I gave the screw a hard turn, and then it would turn freely but not move in or out.

Looking on the internet for advice, I found a video that asserts for another model Maytag dryer using the same type of mounting for the idler arm, that there is a design flaw. You can find the video by searching for “Maytag dryer idler pulley defect”. According to the video, the sheet metal screw used to mount the idler pulley arm can gradually loosen due to the pressure and vibration, and begins to “waggle” which eventually damages the threads. I believe this is what happened to my dryer. The video suggests replacing the sheet metal screw with a machine screw and nut for a more durable union.

So now I understood how the screw could be stripped just sitting in the dryer, but that didn’t help me get the screw out. Working through the rear access panel, I tried pulling on the screw head with several types of pliers, pushing the point from behind with a piece of wood while turning the head with a socket driver; eventually I was able to use a pry bar under the screw head and sleeve to apply pressure while turning the head, and with that method the screw backed out. With the screw removed, it could be seen that the threads in the middle part of the thread length were almost completely worn away.

The screw sleeve got somewhat deformed in this process so I ordered a new one, along with an exact replacement sheet metal screw, hoping the threads in the hole were still intact. With the old idler pulley arm now removed, I could transfer the old idler bracket spacer to the new idler pulley arm. When the ordered parts arrived and I tried to mount the idler pulley arm, the new screw would go in only a couple of turns before binding. Rather than risk winding up in the same situation by forcing the screw, I decided to use a machine screw and nut instead.

The original sheet metal screw was a #10. A machine screw the same size would not fit through the hole, and I could not fit my drill into the dryer cabinet in a position to enlarge the hole, so I used a #8 machine screw with a nut and lock washer. First I put some grease on the contact areas of the screw sleeve and idler bracket spacer, then inserted the machine screw through the hole and put the lock washer and nut on the other side of the mounting. The space around the nut is very limited, and most of my tools were too large to hold the nut while the screw was tightened. It was too small for a socket or adjustable wrench, and the clearance from the exhaust duct was too small for the handles of most tools. Eventually, I found a needle nose pliers with short handles that did the job. A thin open end wrench might also work. Then I reconnected the spring and belt to the idler pulley assembly, and closed the access panel. So far the dryer works, but if the #8 screw turns out to be not strong enough, I could get an extension for my drill and enlarge the hole to fit a #10 machine screw and nut.

Looking back on the job, the most difficult part of this repair was removing the damaged screw. This and several other steps might have been a lot easier if I had removed the motor bracket (where the idler pulley arm is mounted) from the dryer and worked outside the cabinet. Part Select has an excellent video “Replacing the Drive Motor” that shows how to do this. It would be a lot of disassembly work, but for someone with good assembly skills could be easier in the long run.

Hopefully most folks out there who replace the idler pulley arm on a dryer will find an easier situation than I did. But for any who have to deal with a stripped mounting screw, I hope this summary will help you resolve it.
Other Parts Used:
Idler Pulley Shaft Washer Idler Pulley Wheel
  • Alan from BETHESDA, MD
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
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Broken belt
There were two screws to remove the front of the dryer. Then 4 screws to remove the front drum support. Remove the drum. Then one nut each on changing the back drum support rollers. Assemble the drum and front support in reverse, and door front, don't forget to put the new drive belt ovre the drum. Then from the rear panel opening, one screw to change the idler assembly. Easy
Other Parts Used:
Tumbler and Motor Belt Blower Wheel with Clamp Idler Pulley Wheel Idler Arm Screw Sleeve Drum Support Roller Kit
  • Stephen from Crawfordsville, IN
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
3 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
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Horrible squeaking when running
I did it exactly the way the video showed it. I thought I would have to take it out to the pole barn and spend 5-6 hours on it. Because of the excellent video, it was much easier than I thougt it would be.
Other Parts Used:
Idler Pulley Wheel Tumbler and Motor Belt Idler Pulley Shaft Washer Idler Spring Idler Bracket Spacer Drum Support Roller Kit Idler Shaft Retaining Ring
  • Orson from Harrisburg, IL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
1 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
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Questions and Answers

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3 questions answered by our experts.
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Jerry
November 14, 2018
I just replaced drum rollers, drum roller mounting shafts, and belt, the dryer runs, but makes a high pitch noise, when i look at the belt on the ideler roller, the belt rubs on the bracket, and seems to rub against itself at the motor pully, according to the video i have it installed correctly. Do i?
For model number LDE9306ACE
PartSelect logo
Hello Jerry, thank you for your question. Yes, that is correct. The belt goes around the motor pulley, back around the idler pulley then up through the guide and rubs against itself at the motor pulley. If the loud noise is coming from the back of the unit, I would recommend checking where the belt is wrapped around the drum. It cannot be back far enough to get into the groove at the back of the drum. If the belt is in position, you may want to check the felt seal that is around the front and back of the tumbler, as well as the glides that the tumbler drum rides on at the front of the unit. I hope this helps!

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Peg
June 10, 2024
Is the idler arm supposed to be loose or tight against the side by the blower wheel? Mine has some play in it
For model number DE412
PartSelect logo
Hello Peg, thank you for reaching out. According to our research, the idler arm will have a very small amount of wiggle room as the idler arm needs to move freely. If there is a lot, the bolt would need to be tightened until the arm is still able to rotate freely, but the screw is as tight as possible. We hope this information helps!

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Rick
January 21, 2020
I believe I need new belt but do not have the # . Half of belt is 46 in . So belt should be about 92 in .Can you tell me what i need .
PartSelect logo
Hello Rick, thank you for contacting us, In order for us to locate the correct parts and repair information we will require the model number of the unit. Once you have located the model number please feel free to resubmit the question and we will be happy to help you. Please see the link below for help locating the model number sticker on the appliance. We are looking forward to hearing from you. https://www.partselect.com/Find-Your-Washer-Model-Number.aspx

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Related Parts
Model Cross Reference
This part works with the following models:
PartSelect Number: PS11743027
Manufacturer Part Number: WP6-3033630
Brand
Model Number
Description
Maytag
DE106
Dryer - Electric
Maytag
DE107
Dryer - Electric
Maytag
DE110
Dryer - Electric
Maytag
DE18CA
Dryer - Electric
Maytag
DE18CM
Dryer - Electric
Maytag
DE18CS
Dryer - Electric
Maytag
DE18CT
Dryer - Electric
Maytag
DE19CA
Dryer - Electric
Maytag
DE19CD
Dryer - Electric
Maytag
DE19CS
Dryer - Electric
Maytag
DE19CT
Dryer - Electric
Maytag
DE210
Dryer - Electric
Maytag
DE212
Dryer - Residential
Maytag
DE21CA
Dryer - Electric
Maytag
DE21CM
Dryer - Electric
Maytag
DE21CS
Dryer - Electric
Maytag
DE21CT
Dryer - Electric
Maytag
DE22CA
Dryer - Electric
Maytag
DE22CS
Dryer - Electric
Maytag
DE22CT
Dryer - Electric
Maytag
DE23CD
Dryer - Electric
Maytag
DE24CA
Dryer - Electric
Maytag
DE24CM
Dryer - Electric
Maytag
DE24CS
Dryer - Electric
Maytag
DE24CT
Dryer - Electric
Maytag
DE25CS
Dryer - Electric
Maytag
DE26CA
Dryer - Commercial
Maytag
DE26CD
Dryer - Commercial
Maytag
DE26CS
Dryer - Electric
Maytag
DE26CT
Dryer - Commercial
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