IGNITER ASSEMBLY

In my case, it was the solenoids. Take off the top be removing two screws on back, then slide the top back and off. Then remove little screws on top that hold the plastic bar with the electronic controls. This very easily will pop up, don’t unplug it, just lay it aside on top of machine. Under this you can see the white metal piece that contains the door. This whole piece comes off with the door in place. Look for four screws across the top, remove em. Then open the door, there are two facing out about 10 inches apart. Remove em. Now slide whole door out (sort of a hinge on the bottom) from the top. After it pops out from the tops, lean it out about 1 foot then pull up hard. It comes off at the bottom. Gently unplug the door, you will see the wire to unplug. I used a small screwdriver to gently pry the plug apart to get it started. After the front panel is removed, you can see the gas valve lower right. On top of the gas valve which is about 5 inches by 5 inches, you will two black cylinders on top of it. Cylinders that are 1.5 inches tall and about 1 inch wide. These are your solenoids. These create an electromagnetic field that opens the gas valve. There is a silver colored piece of metal on top of them holding them in place with two screws on top. Take this cover off the two black solenoids (Black cylinders). Then remove the cylinders after gently unplugging them. Do not just pull on the wires. Use an ohm meter to test the old ones after you slide them up and off what looks like a silver post. There are two metal tabs on one where the plug plugs onto it. Set your ohm meter for 1000 and touch the two metal tabs. Your meter should say there IS a circuit. If your meter says there is no circuit your solenoid is bad. The other solenoid has threee tabs. Hold your solenoid with the metal plugs down and the cylinder is standing upright. Have the three prongs facing you. The prong on the left as you face the solenoid it is your common. Touch this prong and then with the other wire touch the middle prong. You need to see a circuit that is closed, or connected. If there is no circuit your solenoid is bad. Now touch your two testing wires on the two outside prongs. You still need to see a circuit. If no circuit you have bad solenoid. Replace em. The solenoids die slowly over years. Your dryer will start to take longer to dry. This is sign of dying solenoids. To the left of the gas valve you can see the sensors that determine if the air coming out of the dryer is damp or dry. Replace them at the same time. Where you are the burner, on the left of the 5 inch wide tube it is in you will see a sensor, rectangle shape 2 inch by 1 inch. This determines if the lighter is glowing. Replace it at this same time. On top of the burner tube, top right, hard to reach, there is another sensor that shuts it all down if it is over heating. There are two wires plugged into it. Use a MAGNETIC and very short philips head to remove it. Slowly, don’t drop the screws. Pull the whole sensor out while plugged in, then unplug it using a screw driver to help get it started unplugging. When the new sensor goes in, screw it on place first. Do not try to screw the new one in with wires on it. It is not easy, but you can do it. Use a small flash light etc to help see. Once screwed on, plug in your wires. It does not matter which wire goes on which end. So after you replace all your sensors (4 total) and you replaced those two round black solenoids, you can put it all back together.

Do not buy cheap piece of sh-t parts. The cheap ones are made in China with short cuts, low quality metal and ceramics. Cheap. Use authentic Maytag parts, each sensor should be like $30. I replaced all of mine for $180. I now have a brand new unit as far as the electronics are concerned, good for another 10 years.