Screw - 8-18 x 1/2

First , I went outside and turned the breaker for the dishwasher off. Next,I removed the screws that held the bottom 2 pieces, that rest on the floo,r in place. Then removed the two beige metal pcs. . Next I replaced them with the 2 black pieces I had ordered and secured them with the 2 black screws I had received as part of my order. Then I removed the scews from the inside of the door of my KitchenAid Dishwasher. This released both the front bottom panel and the control panel. . I took the beige bottom door panel off and moved the insulation piece from the back of thebeige panel to the back of the black panel. Then I intalled the new black panel I ordered and resecured it with two screws until I had finished with the control panel switch out.
I had to unplug an electronic tape from the inside of the beige control panel and plug the same tape back into the black control panel. I also had to remove the beige handle that was on the inside of the control panel, attached to the door, and replace it with the new black one I'd received. I then installed the black control panel and reattached it with screws and finished replacing the rest of the screws I had removed from the inside of the door.
I tested the handle to make sure it opened the door and locked it like it should and then went outside and turned the breaker back on. Came in and turned on the dishwasher and did a load of dishes. It looks awesome, matches the rest of my black appliances and I am very proud to have done it myself. I also wanted to thank the customer service lady who was so great to work with on the phone. I would shop with you again.

I followed the instructions on a PartSelect U-Tube video showing how to replace the air inlet. It took me two attempts on two different days because the instructions for removing the 5 screws holding the air inlet in place were over-simplified. Accessing the screws was much more difficult than was demonstrated in the video.

On day 1 I followed the instructions for removing the door panel to gain access, but, after many failed attempts to get the nut driver properly seated on the screw heads holding the air inlet to the door, I replaced the panel so the dishwasher could be used until I found a solution to the problem.

After doing online research, I discovered a nut driver with a flexible shaft; it looked like it would allow me to properly seat the nut driver on the screw heads. Next day, I was able to replace the air inlet with no problem. It took me a little over an hour from start to finish. Aligning the holes of the new air inlet with the holes on the door so it could be screwed in place was awkward and time consuming but persistence worked.

In this case the dishwasher had already been installed for a few years. After removing it, we inspected it and saw it needed a bit of TLC. The transport wheels on the back were missing, making it harder to move around without scratching the tile and some of the original hardware was rusted or broken off. I looked up the parts easily here on PartsSelect using their parts breakdown diagrams and was glad to see what I needed was still available. We had a licensed plumber relocate the hot water line and drain for us to make things a bit easier.
A licensed electrician had also moved the power line over to the new location and left a wire sticking out of the bottom of the wall to hardwire the dishwasher in again. We decided to convert the dishwasher to be able to be plugged into a standard 20amp wall outlet instead. We had already purchased a kit with a nice long cord and strain-relief snap on plastic fitting that snapped onto the metal incoming power box on the bottom front of the dishwasher. Using the supplied wire nuts, etc., we connected the wires and ground wire to the proper wires from the dishwasher and ground lug. We put the dishwasher aside and then went to work on converting the power wire coming out of the bottom of the wall, to a conventional outlet. I am mentioning all this because in our first attempt we unfortunately put the receptacle a bit high off the floor and the new power cord plug end, stuck out and hit the back of the dishwasher so it would not go all the way in and was sticking out from under the counter top. I tried using one of those flat adapter cables, but even that still stuck out to far. So we ended up relocating the outlet box as low as we could on the wall and this allowed the plug to stick out into the opening area at the bottom rear area of the dishwasher so it could now be slid all the way in under the kitchen counter properly. I hope that bit of trial and error will save you some time if you ever decide to go the pluggable route too.
The new installation required the use of the dishwasher side mount brackets, so we had to purchase a replacement set of those, complete with the hardware to screw them down.

This project took a bit longer than planned due to the power plug problem, one which we will remember for any other similar appliance relocation projects, as well as the time to get our new parts in that we had to order, but other than that the rest went smoothly and the dishwasher was relocated successfully.

It was ok but screw holes were not in the right spot but we put one in and that is sufficient for now. It prevent thing from follow under it.

Reassembled lower access covers using the new screws purchased from parts direct, perfect fit replacement. Hardest part remembering how they fit Dishwasher.