Part Location Diagram of WP240775-1 Whirlpool End Seal
See part 21 in the diagram
( Grid squares measure 1x1 inch )
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End Seal

$9.30
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PartSelect Number PS11740521
Manufacturer Part Number WP240775-1
Manufactured by Whirlpool
Troubleshooting
This part works with the following products:
Mixer.
This part works with the following products:
KitchenAid, Whirlpool.
Part# WP240775-1 replaces these:
AP6007406, 240775-1, 3184356, 4162350, 4162351, 4176047
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Customer Repair Stories
 Average Repair Rating: 2.4 / 5.0, 8 reviews. What's this?
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Leaking Oil
This was my husband's first time to taking apart any mixer - much less a heavy duty KitchenAid. Since we could not find a local repairman, the only thing to do was try to repair it himself. Using your exploded view of the machine he found on the internet, he ordered a gasket which he felt would be needed to repair the mixer. When he tore the machine down, the problem was what he had suspected - original grease had liquified and the rest had turned black in color. He went to a local auto parts store and bought a can of wheel bearing grease. He cleaned out the old oil and repacked with about a half pound of the new grease. The most difficult part of the repair was inserting the roll pin to attach the ring gear housing to the output shaft. It was impossible for him to reinsert the original pin, so he bought a new tension pin with which he was able to work. The only part he has been unable to align is the lever to lock/unlock the machine. He managed to set it enough that it locks when the lever is pushed halfway. The machine works great but I would not advise a person without any mechanical ability to try to repair these mixers.
Other Parts Used:
Transmission Case Gasket
  • Alice from Fort Myers, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
36 of 43 people found this instruction helpful.
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The worm gear (plastic-made to be the weakest spot), three teeth were worn,
I removed the lower unit along with the top unit, removed the gear, replaced the gear, then put back together. I removed the grease, saved most of it, then discarded what looked like the dirty grease. I cleaned inside thoroughly in case broken parts were inside. The three schematics were very helpful in re-installed. Mixer was 40 years old but works like new!
Other Parts Used:
Worm Gear LINK-SPEED
  • Robert E. from Loveland, CO
  • Difficulty Level:
    Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
16 of 20 people found this instruction helpful.
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Mixer was overloaded, and began to smell hot and make noise. Did not recover when load was removed.
I disassembled the mixer using a YouTube video as a guide. Disassembly was easy, as everything was held together with pins and threaded fasteners, and all electrical connections were plug-on.

Cleaning out the old grease was messy and time-consuming. I used a putty knife, screwdrivers (used them like small putty knives in the crevasses), paper towels, and finally, small cloths dampened with alcohol. After about a hour (maybe 90 minutes) everything actually looked like new.

I originally diagnosed the problem as the plastic gear loosening up from it's hub, so I ordered the complete gear tower assembly. It turned out not to be the problem- the gears were fine. With the gears removed to eliminate load, I applied power and saw that the original symptom was still there.

Further research turned up that this symptom is more likely a failed field coil, or possibly the phase control board. I ordered both from PartSelect. In the meantime, I tested the armature by measuring the resistance across the brushes as I slowly turned it by hand. At every angle, the resistance was about 7.5 ohms. Nothing lower, and no opens, so I'm pretty sure the armature is OK.

The phase control board arrived, but as of this writing, the field coil has been back ordered for almost a month. While I waited, I tried a partial reassembly of the head with the new board, and it worked! This weekend, I'll finish reassembly of the motor unit to the base/gearbox and calibrate the speed governor. In addition to the new gear tower and phase control board, it has new grease, seals, and both side levers (tilt and speed control) that had lost their knobs some time ago.

Hopefully it will be ready for another quarter century of use!
Other Parts Used:
Phase Control Board Speed Control Lever Transmission Case Gasket
  • James from WEST NEWBURY, MA
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
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worn worm-gear replacement
Repairing/replacing worm-gear (FSP part# W10112253) for a KitchenAid Stand Mixer model number K5SS. First: I am writing this story because all the videos or repair articles I’ve viewed are either misleading or incorrect in that they do not include older K5SS models. 1. These older models from the mid 1960’s or even earlier have four very large #4 chrome plated Phillips Head Screws holding the mixer base to the motor assembly and NOT four small machine screws (one with a lock-washer) as seen on other repair videos. In addition, the stand is composed of two separate pieces with the bottom half being held together with another four identical #4 chrome plated Phillips Head Screws. The upper four holding the stand to the motor housing (I used a manual impact driver to loosen the very stubborn, #4 Phillips screws) must be removed so as to access the four smaller Phillips machine screws (no lock-washers found here, best buy at least four #10, split, before reassembly) 2. Lastly, you will need two pin punches however the recommended smaller 3/32 inch is still too large to remove the pin in the tower assembly. You will need one size smaller or a #4 pin punch instead. These older Kitchen Aid mixers were built with very tight tolerances. Please be patient and take your time removing the pins. Good Luck……. Jim
Other Parts Used:
  • James from Glendale, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
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End seal broken and Cover tabs broken.
Unplugged mixer. Removed screw holding cover on. Removed end seal. Inspected repair area for furhter damage. Installed new end seal and cover.
Other Parts Used:
End Cover - White
  • Bruce from Petersburg, MI
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
3 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
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Updated 1970's KitchenAid Mixer Electronics
I did some research and evaluated a modern day Kitchen Aid Mixer. Looked a the wire diagram and found out what items I needed. Ordered them from Partselect. Overall Mixer is updated and running. I made up some cookie dough with it. The Project took a few evenings due to rewiring the coils on the motor/armature and modifying the rear bearing bracket to hold the Phase control board (not OEM on 70's mixers). Then put it back together and adjusted the speed control.
Other Parts Used:
LINK-SPEED Phase Control Board O-Ring Transmission Case Gasket BRKT-BEARG
  • James from BROOKFIELD, WI
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
1 person found this instruction helpful.
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noisy
disassembled replaced part reassembled now works well
Other Parts Used:
BRKT-BEARG
  • Brian from SPOKANE, WA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
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Corroded speed control plate ( full of flour). Had used the mixer for grinding deer meat and lost the slow speed. Flour would fly up in my wife's face.
I just thought there had to be a way to replace a component to correct the speed problem. I've never worked on a mixer before, so I thought it would be a challenge. Actually the repair was fairly easy. Make sure the unit is unplugged from AC. I removed the back motor cover with one screw and removed the end seal. I compared the parts on the mixer with the diagram provided at the Part Select website. I then ordered the parts. When the parts arrived 3 days later, I removed the Speed Control Plate ( 3 screws) and Phase Control Bd (1 screw) as one Assy. Removed the old Governor and slipped on the new one. Assy the new Speed Control Plate and Phase Control Bd comparing wiring and screwed them back to the unit. Removed the two motor bushes by unscrewing the side black motor brush holders and inserting the new brushes. I tried powering motor and nothing happened. I thought, great, now what did I do? I found out that you must make sure the brushes actually touch the armature otherwise the motor doesn't run. The gears are worn from grinding to much deer meat and my wife says no more. I've ordered new gears and looks like that job, too, will be easy to repair. Adding these parts is alot cheaper than buying a new unit and it will run like new. Not bad for over 10 years of usage.
Other Parts Used:
Motor Brush Speed Governor Phase Control Board Speed Control Plate
  • Kenneth from Cowden, IL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
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Manufacturer Part Number: WP240775-1
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