Part Location Diagram of WP22003483 Whirlpool Drive Belt - 52 inches long
See part 30 in the diagram
Replacing your Maytag Washer Drive Belt - 52 inches long
( Grid squares measure 1x1 inch )
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Drive Belt - 52 inches long

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9 Reviews
$48.00
  In Stock
PartSelect Number PS11739438
Manufacturer Part Number WP22003483
Manufactured by Whirlpool
Product Description

Drive Belt - 52 inches long Specifications

This washing machine drive belt is used with some clothes washers. This belt is all black in color and is made entirely of rubber.
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Replacing your Maytag Washer Drive Belt - 52 inches long

Replacing your Maytag Washer Drive Belt - 52 inches long
Troubleshooting
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Burning smell | Spins slowly | Will not drain | Will not agitate
This part works with the following products:
Washer.
This part works with the following products:
Maytag.
Part# WP22003483 replaces these:
AP6006365, 22002709, 22003483, 62608400, 62618130, WP22003483VP
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Customer Reviews
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Customer Repair Stories
 Average Repair Rating: 3.5 / 5.0, 35 reviews. What's this?
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Washer tub would not spin, pump would empty water from tub.
Lay washer on front, removed belt. Removed center pulley with thrust bearing (pulley was worn on upper end, against thrust bearing, thrust bearing was worn also). Installed new thrust bearing & pulley kit. Cleaned & lubed slots that motor insulators slide in, installed new belt.
Other Parts Used:
Transmission Pulley and Bearing Kit
  • James from Hueytown, AL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
349 of 397 people found this instruction helpful.
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worn belt & burnt motor pulley
First, I looked at the site for instructions on what was wrong, it explained in full detail what and how to remove and replace. We called a local Maytag dealer and told them the part number that the site told us to order and they told us we needed a whole new motor with the plastic motor pulley. they told us the part does not come separate, so we went back to the site and ordered a $6.00 part and paid a small s/h charge and when it came in we went back to the site to see how to put it back together and the instructions were perfectly awesome. The $6 part is what we actually needed not the $178 complete motor that the dealer told us we had to buy. Thanks for this wonderful site it saved us lots of money. this is the 3rd time we order from this site and the instructions we correct all 3 times, I would recommend this site to all who has a home with repairs! Thank you for putting a well useful site together.
Other Parts Used:
Plastic Motor Pulley
  • Kevin from Berwick, ME
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
59 of 67 people found this instruction helpful.
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I noticed water on the floor , so I looked under the wash machine while it was running and noticed water dripping form the bottom.
I brought the wash machine out side, hooked a garden hose to the cold, capped the hot, took off 2ft. square back inspection cover, and plugged in the power cord for a test for leakage location. The hose from tub to pump had a small wear hole, thus leaking water on the belt and making it slip more. When my parts came in from Parts Select the repair was about 45 mins. with coffee. I laid unit on side, cleaned pulleys with rag to remove old belt fragments, and I put new belt on the 2 small pulleys then rolling onto last bigger pulley. For the hose repair- I used a screwdriver to push in the clips under front of top lid. I removed 2 screws with my 1/4 rachet to remove front panel. With my channel locks I pulled off hose , then installed new hose. The unit works great.
Other Parts Used:
Tub to Pump Hose
  • Warren from Lynden, WA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
40 of 44 people found this instruction helpful.
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Squealing during spin cycle
The washer (bought 9 years ago) suddenly started squealing (metal on metal sound) during the spin cycle. After turning the washing machine off and unplugging it, the washer was tipped back and propped up on a milk crate to see the belt on the bottom. There was some rubber dust from the belt, so something had seized-up to some degree. The belt was removed and each pulley was tested to see if it made any noise. Upon spinning the pulley of the water pump a scraping sound was heard. Definitely not as loud as when the washer was on, but it probably would have been if it was spinning faster.

The washer was put upright again and the lid taped to the top to secure it before lifting the top. The top was opened by sliding a putty knife between the top and front panal near the left and right corners. There are two metal clasps that will release the top with gentle pressure, do not pry on the top. The top was lifted up and set back gently so as not to bend or break the hinges. There are two small screws on the upper inner right and left side of the front panel that were removed using a nut driver in order to remove the front panel.

With the front panel removed the water pump was visible in the front, lower left hand corner on the base. The two hoses were removed from the pump by moving the hose clamps up the hose, using pliers to loosen the clamps and then pulling off the hoses with a slight twisting back and forth. I put a few towels around the pump before removal to soak up the water that came out. The three bolts holding the pump in place were removed using a socket wrench and the pump removed.

The new pump was replaced, hoses were put back on, front panel replaced and the top relatch. The washer was tipped back again to get to the bottom to put on the new belt.

That was all. It worked great.

Notes:
1) Several people had mentioned having similar problems with the water pump and had observed a metal ring that had been pushed up where the pulley is connected to the shaft. I also observed this on the sqealing pump. The metal ring seem to work its way out and scrape on the metal mounting plate on the bottom of the pump. So if you see this ring, it is probably the pump.

2)I cleaned the pulleys since there was some rubber dust on them. Also you can remove the belt easily by pulling it slightly off the large pulley and then turning it off. When putting the belt back on, put it around the small pulleys first and then start it on the large pulley and turn it onto the large pulley. More leverage with the large pulley.
Other Parts Used:
Drain Pump with Pulley
  • Alan from Columbia, MO
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Socket set
34 of 35 people found this instruction helpful.
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Wife complained the spin dry not so good
First tip front of washer up about six inches and block. Removed belt by holding the old belt to the side of the big pulley and turn big pulley on opposite side with the other hand. Old belt was dirty, black and some carbon on floor. Cleaned up. Put belt around motor pulley and water pump pulley. Hold belt in track of big pulley. Turn big pulley with opposite hand until belt goes around the big pulley. The motor has a spring that maintains the tension.

Wife thinks everything is back to normal. Get a cool drink out of refrigerator while she carries on and thinks you are a hero.

Special note: Be sure water is out of washing machine. There are instructions on the internet but I have owned Maytags for over forty years and know belt replacements are occassionally replaced.
Other Parts Used:
  • Stephen from Tehachapi, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
21 of 22 people found this instruction helpful.
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Screeching on Spin cycle
I found your site and looked at possible "symptoms" of the problem. Went to my washer propped it up with a 2 x 4 and manually spun the belt and sure enough the pulley on the drain pup was shot and grinding metal on metal. Ordered the new pump with pulley and a new belt (might as well change it when I had the thing in pieces).

1) Opened the front of the machine and then propped up the machine.

2) Placed a pan underneath to catch the water that remained in the pump when I disconnected the two hoses attached to it.

3) Removed old pump with socket wrench

4) Replaced with new pump purchsed from you all.

5) Reconnected the two hoses.

6) Installed new belt.

7) Closed up machine and BAMM! works like it was brand new!

You all Rock! Cost of parts and 20 or so minutes of my time is a lot less than calling a repairman or replacing the machine!

Thanks for the help!!!
Other Parts Used:
Drain Pump with Pulley
  • Andrew from Bronx, NY
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Socket set
20 of 22 people found this instruction helpful.
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Machine jumped around room when spinning
The washing machine would shake very loudly when spinning.
Found red oil under machine. Asked experts, they said "buy new machine, not worth repairing transmission".
replaced small oil seal and drilled small hole and added some transmission oil(auto) then sealed hole. replaced belt just because the other one was oil soaked.
Works great, Like new, cheap fix under $20..
Other Parts Used:
Transmission Lower Lip Seal Repair Kit
  • Randy from Colgate, ND
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
15 of 19 people found this instruction helpful.
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Screaming under the washer
Placed the washer on 2 brick under the front. Removed the belt, used a straight blade screw driver for the lifting of the top off. reoved 2 bolts off the face and removed the screws of the water pump. Water pump was messy with smelly water but a bowel and a towel helps. Placed the pump on, reversed the tear apart...placed the belt on the bottom. Removed the brick under the front. Hooked up the water supply...plugged in and did a load..it worked perfectly....Thanks!!!!
Other Parts Used:
Drain Pump with Pulley
  • Anthony from DeKalb, IL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
14 of 16 people found this instruction helpful.
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would not drain/slow spin
i did the repair by the instructions that you had on the web site,and i thank you for all the help you gave me.
Other Parts Used:
Transmission Pulley and Bearing Kit
  • Carlos from Georgetown, TN
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Socket set
11 of 16 people found this instruction helpful.
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No water would flow into the dishwasher.
I had diagnosed the problem by checking the resistance at the water inlet electrical terminals and their was no continuity. 1. I shut off the water and removed the lower access/kick panels. 2. Then I disconnected the two wires from the inlet valve terminals noting which one went to which terminal (I'm a bad person since I did not disconnect power from the dishwasher while doing this so it is up to you to decide if the time saved is worth the possible consequences). 3. Using an open end wrench I loosened and disconnected the water supply line. 4. Remove the two screws securing the valve assembly to the inside wall of the dishwasher 5. Loosen the clamp on the water outlet line and slide off the hose. Installation is pretty much the same in reverse. Some times the valve assembly comes with the wire terminals oriented in a different direction than what you may find when you take yours off. If it won't work for you, remove the four screws that hold the electrical side of the inlet valve and rotate it to the needed position. Make sure when putting it back together that you tighten the screws evenly to prevent leaks.
Other Parts Used:
Water Inlet Valve - 120V Transmission Pulley and Bearing Kit
  • Jack from Robinson, IL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Socket set, Wrench set
10 of 13 people found this instruction helpful.
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Questions and Answers

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Wayne
February 8, 2023
Not spinning enough water out of clothes?
For model number mav7650aww
PartSelect logo
Hi Wayne, thank you for contacting us. We would recommend checking the following parts: the bearing kit, part number PS2003651, and the drive belt, part number PS11739438. Good luck with your repair!

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Related Parts:
Tom
July 21, 2023
Spin cycle went out of balance frequently so ordered new springs and snubber ring. When pulling out washer to begin repair I notice a perfect black circle bearing perfectly centered about the washer foot print on the floor under the washer. It was a greasy substance that I was able to remove with a degreaser. What is going on? And do I need additional parts or repairs? Thank you.
For model number MDE5000AYW
PartSelect logo
Hi Tom, thank you for contacting us. You may need to check the drum support roller kit, part number PS1570070, to fix the issue. It holds the drum in the proper position while it spins on the support wheels. We hope this helps, good luck with this repair!

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Related Parts:
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Related Parts
Model Cross Reference
This part works with the following models:
PartSelect Number: PS11739438
Manufacturer Part Number: WP22003483
Brand
Model Number
Description
Maytag
MAV4057AWQ
Washer - Residential
Maytag
MAV4057AWW
Washer - Residential
Maytag
MAV4500AWW
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Maytag
MAV5000AWQ
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Maytag
MAV5000AWW
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Maytag
MAV5057AWQ
Washer - Residential
Maytag
MAV5057AWW
Washer - Residential
Maytag
MAV5960AWW
Washer - Residential
Maytag
MAV6000AWQ
Washer - Residential
Maytag
MAV6000AWW
Washer - Residential
Maytag
MAV6057AWQ
Washer - Residential
Maytag
MAV6057AWW
Washer - Residential
Maytag
MAV6200AWQ
Washer - Residential
Maytag
MAV6200AWW
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Maytag
MAV6250AWQ
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Maytag
MAV6250AWW
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Maytag
MAV6257AWQ
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Maytag
MAV6257AWW
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Maytag
MAV6260AWW
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Maytag
MAV6300AWQ
Washer - Residential
Maytag
MAV6300AWW
Washer - Residential
Maytag
MAV6357AWW
Washer - Residential
Maytag
MAV6358AWW
Washer - Residential
Maytag
MAV6451AWQ
Washer - Residential
Maytag
MAV6451AWW
Washer - Residential
Maytag
MAV6457AWW
Washer - Residential
Maytag
MAV6458AWW
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Maytag
MAV6548AWQ
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Maytag
MAV6548AWW
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Maytag
MAV6601AWQ
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