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Replacing your Maytag Washer Snubber Ring
![Replacing your Maytag Washer Snubber Ring Replacing your Maytag Washer Snubber Ring](https://img.youtube.com/vi/ih0_ve1CXSI/maxresdefault.jpg)
Troubleshooting
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Spins slowly | Shaking and Moving | Will not agitate
This part works with the following products:
Washer.
This part works with the following products:
Maytag, Norge, Admiral, Magic Chef.
Part# WP21002026 replaces these:
AP6005786, 21001161, 21002026, 35-2357, 35-3699, 35-3788, WP21002026VP
Customer Reviews
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Timothy E - March 29, 2023
Verified Purchase
Worked Perfectly
Had a washer tub slamming around during every load no matter what. Swapped this snubber ring along with the springs and machine runs great again!
Horst H - June 17, 2021
Verified Purchase
Part worked great, tough repair
The part worked great, washer operates much more smoothly now. Videos were helpful, but taking the washer apart was difficult due to the 6 springs anchoring the tub to the base.
Matt R - April 23, 2021
Verified Purchase
Worked great
Part came fast and fixed the problem
Salu S - August 6, 2020
Verified Purchase
Part reached before time, fixing the part was slightly hard, I am happy that I saved few hundred dollars in repair.
part matched quite satisfied with the quality.
Jeff R - July 9, 2020
Verified Purchase
Easy Repair
Great company to deal with.
Ken B - September 29, 2019
Verified Purchase
Perfect
Our washer was spinning out of control no matter how we loaded it. It had white powder underneath the washer, confirming the need for a new snubber (thanks to researching on-line). Part arrived quickly; followed the included installation video; and for less than ten dollars our washer is stable once again and spins properly.
Keshab G - July 11, 2019
Verified Purchase
Right part, fixed my problem.
Good quality part.
Adam G - June 15, 2019
Verified Purchase
Good quality, and did the job.
Quick delivery, and in good condition. Instructional videos were extremely helpful. Washing machines working great!
Alberto G - May 27, 2019
Verified Purchase
Easy fix
No more shaking, no more moving. Now, my washer runs like new again. The hard part was removing the suspension springs and putting them back on.
Kent W - April 16, 2019
Verified Purchase
Easy repair kinda
part was what i needed to stop the unbalanced shaking , have to take most of washer apart to change it but easy once you do it once
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Customer Repair Stories
Average Repair Rating: 2.5 / 5.0, 70 reviews.
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Washer jumping in spin cycle (white flakes under the washer)
Unlug the AC cord,open the top from the front it snaps open with a little force and hinges on the back, remove the 2 screws on the front cover and take it off, tip the washer and remove the belt, take off the pump hose from the back (I removed the back cover also) and the little hose going to the basket. Remove the 6 springs and lift the complete drum out of the waser and turn it upside down. You can see the plastic snubber ring that is worn, loosen the 6 screws just enough to get the old ring out and the new one in. WARNING (DO NOT TAKE THE SCREWS ALL THE WAY OUT OR THE BRAKE ASSEMBLY WILL RELEASE AND A SPECIAL TOOL IS NEEDED TO PUT IT BACK) Install the new ring, tighten the screws and put the tub back in connecting everything back up and use the 6 new springs. It really isn't that hard to do.
Other Parts Used:
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David from Butler, PA
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set
288 of 301 people
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EXCESSIVE Banging, shaking and squeaking while on Spin Cycle
1)Start with empty washing machine.
2)Disconnect Hot, Cold, Power and Drain lines
3)Move machine to open area, open top by popping 2 front retaining clips.
4)Remove Front panel, remove small clear water level hose at lower rear of tub.
5)Remove small Rear access panel, disconnect large tub drain hose from pump and drain into small container, about 4 cups of water will come out.
5)Remove the 6 suspension Springs.
6)Place two large towels next to washer and tip machine onto its side slowly.
7)Remove drive belt from bottom, and slide out wash tub assembly thru top opening, be Careful not to damage large Plastic drive pulley on bottom of tub.
8)With tub upside-down, remove drive pully small plastic cover in center, remove E-Clip and remove pulley.
9)Slowly loosen snubber ring retaining bolts a few turns, DO NOT Remove, just loosen enough until snubber is free to move around.
10)Remove snubber ring by walking it around the retaining ring and install new snubber.
11) Clean machine cabinet and clean machine base where snubber touches with alcohol or Windex.
12) Reassemble in reverse order and Do Not Forget to reattach the small clear Water level sensing HOSE to the tub before closing the top.
13)Place Drive Belt onto the 2 small pulleys First, then slowly turn large pulley while walking belt onto it.
14)Reconnect machine to utilities and test run on small load to ensure no leaks and propper operation.
15)Enjoy Quiet free operation once again :)
2)Disconnect Hot, Cold, Power and Drain lines
3)Move machine to open area, open top by popping 2 front retaining clips.
4)Remove Front panel, remove small clear water level hose at lower rear of tub.
5)Remove small Rear access panel, disconnect large tub drain hose from pump and drain into small container, about 4 cups of water will come out.
5)Remove the 6 suspension Springs.
6)Place two large towels next to washer and tip machine onto its side slowly.
7)Remove drive belt from bottom, and slide out wash tub assembly thru top opening, be Careful not to damage large Plastic drive pulley on bottom of tub.
8)With tub upside-down, remove drive pully small plastic cover in center, remove E-Clip and remove pulley.
9)Slowly loosen snubber ring retaining bolts a few turns, DO NOT Remove, just loosen enough until snubber is free to move around.
10)Remove snubber ring by walking it around the retaining ring and install new snubber.
11) Clean machine cabinet and clean machine base where snubber touches with alcohol or Windex.
12) Reassemble in reverse order and Do Not Forget to reattach the small clear Water level sensing HOSE to the tub before closing the top.
13)Place Drive Belt onto the 2 small pulleys First, then slowly turn large pulley while walking belt onto it.
14)Reconnect machine to utilities and test run on small load to ensure no leaks and propper operation.
15)Enjoy Quiet free operation once again :)
Other Parts Used:
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robert from simpsonville, SC
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers
127 of 137 people
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washer out of balance most of the time
watched online video help. removed washer panels. removed washer springs. disconnected hoses. pulled tub out and placed on top to expose. snubber ring. replaced snubber ring, placed tub back into proper space. replaced old springs with new set. reconnect hoses. Washer ran perfect. Was about to spend $800.00 on new washer but only spent $43.00 in parts and a few hours labor and good as new
Other Parts Used:
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Matthew from Ephrata, WA
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers
77 of 96 people
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washer would agitate, pump, but not spin
First I unplugged it, then removed the agitator and tub assemblies, then I tipped it back and removed the belt and pully and thrust bearings. After reading on here I learned the brake would stick and after installing the thrust bearing kit I found out I couldnt fit in the shims. That led me to believe the brake was siezed inplace so i couldn't fit in the parts. I removed the thrust bearing kit and removed the transmission assembley. I took apart the brake and found the two pieces had siezed together, after I got them apart I sanded both peices and lubed the shaft with high temp silicone like you would use on a cars brake system. I put the brake back together, BE VERY CAREFUL THE SPRING HAS ALOT OF PRESSURE! I then put the transmission back in, reinstalled the thrust bearing kit and it fit great. I put in the tub and agitator and washed clothes.
Other Parts Used:
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steve from lebanon, OH
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:More than 2 hours
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
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make loud rubbing noise like a finger on wet glass
It auger would barely spin and the machine would squeal to a stop after the spin cycle. After reading some other posts on here, I decided that it is most likely the brake so I bought the brake repair kit.
Because the machine was old, I took the time to clean it while I was repairing the brake; thus the extra time, but it was well worth it.
1) go to hard ware store and buy 6 2" #10-24 screws; they will be required to remove and install the brake spring
2) you have to gut the machine (which is very easy) - working from the top
* unplug, drain water, and move it to an open space where you can easily work on the floor around it, and where you have a wall to support the top panel of the machine
* tilt washer on the side and remove the drive belt and pulley from the main shaft in the center
* lower washer and then remove the front panel and raise the top panel to rest against the wall/backstop
* remove the auger
* remove the white top from the tub
* remove any hoses connected to the plastic tub
* now you can push the tub to each side so that you can remove the springs - it is easier if you have someone push the tub down from the top while you remove the springs with pliers.
* remove the tub
3) remove the brake - working from the top with the tub turned upside down
* remove every other screw from the break and replace with the 2" screws
* remove the remaining original screws and replace with the 2" screws
* now, release the screws so that the brake spring is release with equal pressure on each screw
* remove the brake guts and replace with new
4) now would be a good time to clean out any mold and mildew
5) re-assembly is opposite of removal*
* the springs are more difficult to attach, and I would recommend starting with the spring in the back, by the drain and working towards the front of the washer
My machine is now quieter than when we first bought it! The brake was the problem!
03-2011
Because the machine was old, I took the time to clean it while I was repairing the brake; thus the extra time, but it was well worth it.
1) go to hard ware store and buy 6 2" #10-24 screws; they will be required to remove and install the brake spring
2) you have to gut the machine (which is very easy) - working from the top
* unplug, drain water, and move it to an open space where you can easily work on the floor around it, and where you have a wall to support the top panel of the machine
* tilt washer on the side and remove the drive belt and pulley from the main shaft in the center
* lower washer and then remove the front panel and raise the top panel to rest against the wall/backstop
* remove the auger
* remove the white top from the tub
* remove any hoses connected to the plastic tub
* now you can push the tub to each side so that you can remove the springs - it is easier if you have someone push the tub down from the top while you remove the springs with pliers.
* remove the tub
3) remove the brake - working from the top with the tub turned upside down
* remove every other screw from the break and replace with the 2" screws
* remove the remaining original screws and replace with the 2" screws
* now, release the screws so that the brake spring is release with equal pressure on each screw
* remove the brake guts and replace with new
4) now would be a good time to clean out any mold and mildew
5) re-assembly is opposite of removal*
* the springs are more difficult to attach, and I would recommend starting with the spring in the back, by the drain and working towards the front of the washer
My machine is now quieter than when we first bought it! The brake was the problem!
03-2011
Other Parts Used:
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michael from mountain home, ID
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
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Washer shakes violently during spin cycle
I used the instructions from others and modified them with tips and details based on my own experience:
1. Unplug the power, turn off the hot/cold water valves and disconnect the hot/cold water hoses and drain hose. Tip: plug the drain hose with some paper towels to keep the stale water from dripping on your floors.
2. Move the washer to an open area like a garage, and position it near a wall (or have a helper on hand who can help you prop up the washer top later). Tip: to simplify things, you’ll want to avoid removing the top completely. Removing the top completely involves removing the inlet water hose and all wires leading to the control panel and the door switch.
3. Lay the washer on its side and remove the drive belt from the bottom of the washer.
4. Place the washer upright again and remove the lower rear panel held by eight ¼” hex screws.
5. With the rear panel off, you will see a black drain hose that connects the tub to the pump. Remove the hose at the pump with a pair of pliers. The hose is just held on with a spring clamp.
6. Remove the front panel: pry the top off at 2 front hinge points with a flat head screwdriver. With the top up, remove two 5/16” hex screws holding the front panel and remove the front panel.
7. Remove suspension springs: To easily remove the suspension springs, you will need about 12 quarters (or nickels) for each spring. I hope I can describe this part clearly. For the removal of each spring, tilt the top of the tub away from you as far as you can in order to stretch out the spring. Now insert coins between the gaps in the spring coil, alternating the coins on each side of the coil to keep the spring coil straight. Then tilt the top of the tub back toward you to release the tension on the spring and you should now be able to easily unhook the spring from the tub. The coins keep the coil stretched out for re-installation later. Repeat for the other 5 coils. Note: Others have mentioned using a metal electrical box for this, but I can’t visualize it.
8. Now raise the washer top and prop it against the wall (or have a helper hold it vertical). Follow the small clear “water level” hose that runs from the control panel to the rear of the tub and disconnect it from the tub. It is just held by a small spring clamp.
9. Remove the tub assembly. Remember the position of the tub before you take it out. Place a couple of 4”x4”s (or equivalent) on the ground to support the edges of the washer tub when you turn it upside down. With the springs removed, the drive belt off, and the water level hose and drain hose detached, you should be able to simply lift the tub assembly out. Lay the tub upside down on the 4x4s.
10. Remove the snubber ring: There is no need to remove the flywheel if you have a small or fairly shallow socket (or an angled open end wrench). My small socket worked fine. As others have mentioned, remove the snubber ring by backing out the six 5/16” hex bolts that hold the snubber ring in place. Do not remove the bolts completely. The metal retaining plate is supposed to be under spring tension, but mine did not rise when I loosened the bolts, so I had to pry it up slightly with a flat screwdriver to form enough of a gap to insert the new snubber ring. Make sure the new snubber ring is seated evenly and re-tighten the 6 bolts.
11. Reinstall: Place tub back into the cabinet, reconnect the thin water level hose, reconnect the drain hose at the pump.
12. Spring re-installation: As you hook each spring to the tub, make sure the bottom of the spring is hooked properly to the bottom of the cabinet. Then tilt the top of the tub away from you to stretch the spring out in order to remove the coins. Then tilt it back toward you to remove the tension. Repeat for the other 5 springs.
13. Re-install the front panel and the rear panel and place the washer top back in place.
14. Lay the washer on its side to reinstall the drive belt.
15. Hook up your hot/cold water, drain hose, tur
1. Unplug the power, turn off the hot/cold water valves and disconnect the hot/cold water hoses and drain hose. Tip: plug the drain hose with some paper towels to keep the stale water from dripping on your floors.
2. Move the washer to an open area like a garage, and position it near a wall (or have a helper on hand who can help you prop up the washer top later). Tip: to simplify things, you’ll want to avoid removing the top completely. Removing the top completely involves removing the inlet water hose and all wires leading to the control panel and the door switch.
3. Lay the washer on its side and remove the drive belt from the bottom of the washer.
4. Place the washer upright again and remove the lower rear panel held by eight ¼” hex screws.
5. With the rear panel off, you will see a black drain hose that connects the tub to the pump. Remove the hose at the pump with a pair of pliers. The hose is just held on with a spring clamp.
6. Remove the front panel: pry the top off at 2 front hinge points with a flat head screwdriver. With the top up, remove two 5/16” hex screws holding the front panel and remove the front panel.
7. Remove suspension springs: To easily remove the suspension springs, you will need about 12 quarters (or nickels) for each spring. I hope I can describe this part clearly. For the removal of each spring, tilt the top of the tub away from you as far as you can in order to stretch out the spring. Now insert coins between the gaps in the spring coil, alternating the coins on each side of the coil to keep the spring coil straight. Then tilt the top of the tub back toward you to release the tension on the spring and you should now be able to easily unhook the spring from the tub. The coins keep the coil stretched out for re-installation later. Repeat for the other 5 coils. Note: Others have mentioned using a metal electrical box for this, but I can’t visualize it.
8. Now raise the washer top and prop it against the wall (or have a helper hold it vertical). Follow the small clear “water level” hose that runs from the control panel to the rear of the tub and disconnect it from the tub. It is just held by a small spring clamp.
9. Remove the tub assembly. Remember the position of the tub before you take it out. Place a couple of 4”x4”s (or equivalent) on the ground to support the edges of the washer tub when you turn it upside down. With the springs removed, the drive belt off, and the water level hose and drain hose detached, you should be able to simply lift the tub assembly out. Lay the tub upside down on the 4x4s.
10. Remove the snubber ring: There is no need to remove the flywheel if you have a small or fairly shallow socket (or an angled open end wrench). My small socket worked fine. As others have mentioned, remove the snubber ring by backing out the six 5/16” hex bolts that hold the snubber ring in place. Do not remove the bolts completely. The metal retaining plate is supposed to be under spring tension, but mine did not rise when I loosened the bolts, so I had to pry it up slightly with a flat screwdriver to form enough of a gap to insert the new snubber ring. Make sure the new snubber ring is seated evenly and re-tighten the 6 bolts.
11. Reinstall: Place tub back into the cabinet, reconnect the thin water level hose, reconnect the drain hose at the pump.
12. Spring re-installation: As you hook each spring to the tub, make sure the bottom of the spring is hooked properly to the bottom of the cabinet. Then tilt the top of the tub away from you to stretch the spring out in order to remove the coins. Then tilt it back toward you to remove the tension. Repeat for the other 5 springs.
13. Re-install the front panel and the rear panel and place the washer top back in place.
14. Lay the washer on its side to reinstall the drive belt.
15. Hook up your hot/cold water, drain hose, tur
Other Parts Used:
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Hank from Alpharetta, GA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Pliers, Socket set
37 of 42 people
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terrible screeching during agitation after having washer only 3 months
First I disconnected the hoses and moved washer out to a larger area. Washer had to be completely torn down. Took front cover and casing off. Took all electrical and plumbing fixtures out. Removed the drum hold-down springs. Removed the drive belt. Inverted the drum/agitator section. Removed the drive pulley and bearing assembly. Removed the brake snubber. Removed the brake shoe. Reinstalled new parts. Put washer back together. It now works great.
Other Parts Used:
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stephen from soddy daisy, TN
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:More than 2 hours
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
23 of 32 people
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Washer jumping all over the place even with a small load.
I checked out your other repair information and deided I could do this. Ordered the part and it as her several days before I expected it.
Ok, let's do this thing.
MAGIC TOOLS:
5/16" socket or wrench and #2 Phillips screwdriver and something to remove hose clamps - I recomend a 6" to 8" vice grips and a 6" to 8" plires.
1. Pulled the washer out in the middle of the floor and disconnected the hoses and removed the rear access cover, disconnected the pump hose, released the top using a 1/8' common screwdriver in that narrow space between the top and the front panel. Removed the 2 screws holding the front panel on and removed the front panel.
2. Disconnected fill level hose- toward the left rear side - turned the machine on it's side and walked the drive belt off, tipped it back up right and removed the 6 springs - be sure to note their orientation and location.
3. Lifted the whole assembly out of the top of the machine and set it upside down next to the machine.
4. Loosened the screws holding the snubber in place - NOTE I did not remove the screws - loosen them sequentially little by little untill you can get the snubber to come out. I did not remove the pulley as my Craftsman ratchet and standard - short - socket allowed me to get between the pulley and the screws to loosen them.
5. I removed the old well worn snubber, cleaned the area up and the new snubber actually fell into place and I retightened the screws in the reverse order until they were solid feeling.
6. I lifted the assembly back into the frame, reconnected the springs and the pump hose and the fill level hose. I reinstalled the front cover - AND HERE IS THE IMPORTANT PART!
7. You are so happy this is going so well that you forget to put the BELT back on before you hook up the hoses, so you have to unhook the hoses to put the belt back on and then rehook the hot and cold hoses and drain hose again.
8. Except for number 7 this is a piece of cake. My only concern is how often will I have to do this. The machine is only 8 years old.
Ok, let's do this thing.
MAGIC TOOLS:
5/16" socket or wrench and #2 Phillips screwdriver and something to remove hose clamps - I recomend a 6" to 8" vice grips and a 6" to 8" plires.
1. Pulled the washer out in the middle of the floor and disconnected the hoses and removed the rear access cover, disconnected the pump hose, released the top using a 1/8' common screwdriver in that narrow space between the top and the front panel. Removed the 2 screws holding the front panel on and removed the front panel.
2. Disconnected fill level hose- toward the left rear side - turned the machine on it's side and walked the drive belt off, tipped it back up right and removed the 6 springs - be sure to note their orientation and location.
3. Lifted the whole assembly out of the top of the machine and set it upside down next to the machine.
4. Loosened the screws holding the snubber in place - NOTE I did not remove the screws - loosen them sequentially little by little untill you can get the snubber to come out. I did not remove the pulley as my Craftsman ratchet and standard - short - socket allowed me to get between the pulley and the screws to loosen them.
5. I removed the old well worn snubber, cleaned the area up and the new snubber actually fell into place and I retightened the screws in the reverse order until they were solid feeling.
6. I lifted the assembly back into the frame, reconnected the springs and the pump hose and the fill level hose. I reinstalled the front cover - AND HERE IS THE IMPORTANT PART!
7. You are so happy this is going so well that you forget to put the BELT back on before you hook up the hoses, so you have to unhook the hoses to put the belt back on and then rehook the hot and cold hoses and drain hose again.
8. Except for number 7 this is a piece of cake. My only concern is how often will I have to do this. The machine is only 8 years old.
Other Parts Used:
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Gary from Sioux City, IA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Screw drivers, Socket set
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replaced snubber ring and springs to stop unbalanced spinning
Move washer to area with plenty of room. I took mine out to the deck. take off front of cabinet remove back panel, remove old springs, (a bit hard) remove belt, lift out tub turn over and loosen screws do not remove!! remove old snubber and replace with new, Not bad. Put tub back in washer put on new springs(didn't think I'd ever get them on, not enough upperbody strength)Video would have been priceless!
reattach belt and panels put washer back in place. No noise upon spinning but I now have issues with the agitator, Need a new washer!
reattach belt and panels put washer back in place. No noise upon spinning but I now have issues with the agitator, Need a new washer!
Other Parts Used:
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Kim from qPeachland, NC
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:More than 2 hours
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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Washing Machine Beat Itself To Death During Spin Cycle
Removed front cabinet, removed 6 springs holding tub down, removed pump hose, removed drive belt from motor,lifted tub out the top and placed upside down, loosened all six hex bolts(did not loosen or remove drive pulley) backed all six bolts out and left 4 threads showing, slipped old snubber out cleaned all surfaces with alchohol and slid new snubber in. Put corn starch on base where snubber rides, lifted tub back in, hooked up all six tension springs with auto brake tool. Put belt back on. . . Done. . No more beating itself to death.
Other Parts Used:
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John from Cumberland, MD
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Socket set
19 of 28 people
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Questions and Answers
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Sorry, we couldn't find any existing answers that matched.Try using some different or simpler keywords, or submit your new question by using the "Ask a Question" button above!
Mike
January 15, 2018
Hi, i replaced the snubber ring and springs on my Admiral washer but now it looks like the brake isn't working. It won't agitate properly and while it will spin, it doesn't stop when the program finishes but continues to turn under it's own momentum for a while (although it is much smoother!). Have you come across this before and, if so, is there anything obvious i should do before taking it apart again and looking at the brake assembly? Thanks in advance, mike
For model number AAV8000AGW
Hi Mike,
Thank you for your question. If the washer continues to spin after the cycle is over and it will not agitate properly, then the issue is likely with the lid switch. You will need to check the lid switch with a multimeter to check the continuity of the part to verify it is working. If it turns out that the issue is not with the lid switch, you will need to check the lid switch actuator, the agitator auger and post assembly, the transmission pulley and bearing kit, the agitator base, the drain pump, the motor pivot spring and the washer brake rotor. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!
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Robert
June 25, 2019
We just recently purchased a snubber ring and i see there are several little bumps on the inside of this ring, are they supposed to.Be there or are they to be removed prior to installation thank you for time and asssistance robert
For model number hav2558aww
Hello Robert, thank you for your question. Those are supposed to be there, they do not need to be removed. Good luck with your repair!
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Pat
August 27, 2019
Washer fills and spins freely but when it advances to wash motor clicks and hums for a second then pauses for a short time then tries to run again, nothing. Will a new snubber ring solve the problem?
For model number MAVT546EWW
Hi Pat,
Thank you for your question. If the washer is not agitating, there are some parts that you will need to check to see which one is causing the issue. Here is a link from our website that you may reference on what parts to check, https://www.partselect.com/AdvancedModelSymptoms.aspx?ModelNum=MAVT546EWW&mfgModelNum=&fkMfgID=1&ModelMasterID=51309&PID=34. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!
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George
January 31, 2020
During wash cycle it sounds like some rocks being washed, during spin cycle clothing still very wet, seems as though spin cycle not spinning fast enough
For model number Admiral AAV7000AWW
Hi George. This may be a faulty drive belt part number PS11738882. Thank you for your question and good luck with your repair.
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George
February 10, 2020
Hi my washer in spin cycle spins but does not go into the high speed spin to get all the water out of the clothes. I have replaced the belt and it didn't help. What else can it be?
For model number AAV7000AWW
Hello George, Thank you for the question. We suggest checking for wear or damage to the Transmission Pulley and Bearing Kit, PartSelect Number PS2003651.The kit is used to help the washer drain, and may need to be replaced if the washer is experiencing slow or no spin. We hope this helps.
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Steven
February 22, 2019
I replaced the thrust washer & belt because of slow spin. Washer still does not spin fast enough to displace much water from the clothes. As it is spinning it is still trying to agitate. What may be my problem?
For model number MAV2755AWW
Hello Steven, If your washer is not spinning there are some parts that you will need to check to see which one is causing the issue. You will need to check the the transmission and bearing, the drive belt, the drain pump, the washer brake rotor, the snubber ring, the motor with pulley, the brake stator, the motor pivot spring, the lid switch, the lid switch actuator and the brake spring. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!
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William
May 7, 2019
I'm having trouble figuring out this washer. It agitates, but does not spin. It begins to spin, but doesn't spin more than 3-4 inches or so. I guess that's a turn.I've replaced the thrust bearing (kit). i put pressure on the motor mount, to tighten the belt, but no results from that either. the motor seems to spin well. is it supposed to spin counter clockwise (opposite the agitation) during the spin cycle?
i'm at wit's end here....
thanks,
bill
For model number MAV9657EWQ
Hi William,
Thank you for your question. If the washer will not spin, there are some parts that you will need to check to see which one is causing the issue. You will need to check the transmission pulley and bearing, the drive belt, the drain pump, the snubber ring, the motor with pulley, the motor pivot spring and the brake stator. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!
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Robert
October 18, 2023
My maytag is a modal 11 description says for model 10 Does my machine have this part on it?
For model number mav408dawn 11
Hi Robert, thank you for reaching out. Yes, your washer has a snubber ring. We hope this information helps!
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Robert
October 17, 2023
do i need this for my machine? i am going to replace lower bearing
For model number mav408daww
Hello Robert, thank you for getting in touch. The function of the snubber ring, part number PS11738845, you are asking about is to reduce noise and vibrations within your washer. It fits in between the leg and the dome assembly. During your spin cycle, if you notice your washer jumping and making loud whirring noises, you may need to replace your snubber ring. While replacing the lower bearing, you do not need to replace the snubber ring. We hope this information helps!
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PartSelect Number: PS11738845
Manufacturer Part Number: WP21002026
Manufacturer Part Number: WP21002026
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