Door Latch Assembly W10862259

I had to force the door open, due to a broken handle/latch.
Ordered assembly with help of order desk to assure correct part number. Arrived within 3 to 4 days. Not sure but very fast. Only had to wash dishes by hand once.
Turned off power to dishwasher, my electrical panel is clearly marked with switch for dishwasher. No guess work there.
3 min. to remove old assy. 3 min. to replace with new part.
I might add that I am a 67yr. old female. So if I can handle this repair, anyone can.
Saved repairman service call, or purchasing a new dishwasher.

Removed the screws on the door of the dishwasher, lifted up inside of door to get to the latch assembly, unplugged the 2 sets of wires, removed the old broken latch. To install new latch did all of the above in opposite order.
Very simple, quick easy fix. The only thing that might be an issue for some people is that you need a set or torx head screw drivers. (nice little set at Home Depot for less than $10. I'd say.)

Easy to do. Order the handle (with latch assembly) rather than the latch assembly. It's cheaper and it contains both parts (handle and latch). Turn off the power. Use a T20 star tool to remove the screws inside the door. The latch assembly will fall right out as it uses the screws holding on the door. The hardest part is getting enough nerve to pull the two electrical plugs out. They are really tight and need some pulling with pliers. You might want to put a dot on the wire connector with a sharpie so you can put it back in the right side up. Connect the wires to the new assembly, place in door, put screws back in. Turn on the power. Done. I called a repair place and asked for a estimate for this job: $150-200 with parts. I did it in 10 minutes for $30 worth of parts.

Having read some of the other stories on this site, and not really sure what subpart was ACTUALLY broken, I ordered the latch assembly rather than the latch - and as another user mentioned, it's actually cheaper. I

Installation was an absolute breeze - the drill/driver is just added hedonism - but if you are going to use one, make sure it has a variable clutch so that you can put it on one fo the loosest settings to avoid stripping the screws.

I open the dishwasher door and held it open with a heavy pot and removed the screws (about 14) around the edge of the inside panel in the door.
The panel lifts way easily (if you remove the pot). The panel is attached to the latch assembly by two wiring harnesses - make note of which goes to which, they ARE IDENTICAL and you will not be able to tell them apart later.
I just lifted the broken assembly out, and fished out the other shards
Next, after repeated attempts to remove the harness from the switches in the assembly and failing, I just swapped the old switches still attached to the harness into the new assembly.
Place the assembly back in its slot, the panel fits back on fairly easily, drive the screws back in without stripping, and enjoy the silky feeling of a latch that shuts again
Enjoy beer

I removed the screws, and unplugged the old part, plugged in the new part and screwed it back in. It was so easy it took about 10 minutes. I surprised my husband when he came home to repair it, it was finished by me!!

Removed all the screws on the inside door panel,then I removed the old latch assembly and two electrical plugs. Next I installed the new latch and connected the two electrical plugs. I then replaced the inside door panel and the screws.The dishwasher now works like new after this simple repair. BE SURE TO DISCONNECT THE ELECTRICAL POWER BEFORE MAKING ANY REPAIRS!!!!

Removed screws around perimeter of interior door panel. Latch was loose at this point so all I had to do is disconnect 2 wires and reattach those 2 wires to new part, position new latch in the proper place and fasten interior panel into origianl position. That was it!!!!

First I had to go out and buy a Torx driver set, then I removed all of the Torx screws around the inside of the door panel. After that the door latch was free and I saw my problem, a broken retainer on the door latch assembly. I ordered a new door latch assembly and when it came in I removed the two electrical leads, set the new door latch assembly in place, attached the two electrical leads and reassembled the door panel with Torx screws all around. The new latch worked just like it was supposed to.

The noise problem was a combination of the belt and the snubber Ring. The snubber ring was worn out and causing most of the noise. The belt was easy to put on...the snubber ring - not so much. Plan a couple of hours to disassemble the lower portion of the washer as the snubber ring lies at the bottom of the washer tub assembly but above all the pulleys, gears and the bottom/base plate of the wash machine. A nice surprise is the large spring that pops out when you open up the bottom plate. Re-compressing that spring takes a special tool or a creative way to get it all back together after the new snubber ring is installed. I used some temporary bolts and nuts in luau of the short 1/2" sheet metal screws to compress the spring and than replaced the bolts with the original sheet metal screws once the plate was close enough to use them. It was a major pain. No doubt the pros have a special tool that takes care of this problem. Good luck!

Had to insert putty knife in the top of latch opening and press up to release the latch so the door would open.

Turn off electric to unit.
Removed the 12 star screws on the panel inside of door.
Pulled out the two wire plugs from the door latch unit, had to use a screwdriver to help push out the metal pronges.
Insert the plugs in the new unit and align the latch pivot point on the door and the two holes with the holes for the inside panel.
Replace the screws.
When the door is closed the latch will be pushed into place and the door is held closed.