Water Inlet Valve

Turned off water supply, removed old Water Valve, installed new Water Valve, turned water supply back on. After first couple cycles of icemaker, increased water pressure by opening water supply valve one more full turn. Good cubes! Job completed in about 1 hour - moving fridge out, swapping Water Valve, moving fridge back in. (time to clean coils not included)

Washer; I watched the repair video, and replaced the agitator. It was so simple I think that it took longer to watch the video. Refrigerator; I replaced the ice maker, and the solenoid valve. It was very easy to replace the parts, however it took a while to diagnose the problem. I found an appliance repair man that told me what contact points on the front of the ice maker would trigger the clock (so I didn't have to wait for an hour for the clock to activate). There is also a set of contacts that when jumpered will trigger the solenoid valve. It only took a total of 25 minutes to fix both the washer, and the dryer. If you take a piece of 14 Ga. solid wire about 6" long and strip the ends about 3/8" and bend it into a U you have a jumper. If you jump the contact points on the front of the icemaker letters T & H this will start the clock operation. If you jump letters L & V, the solenoid should open to allow water to flow to the tray. If water does not flow, the filter should be checked in the valve. If the valve sounds like it is opening, sometimes the inlet to the ice maker can freeze stoping the flow. In my case I found the solenoid valve was getting only a week signal, and would only function about 25% of the time.

It turned out the water valve was not the problem but I think it works a bit better with the new one. I had replaced the main part of the icemaker inside the freezer which had lost the smooth finish in the ice tray. It worked for awhile but quit.
What had happened was the large approx. 1/2 inch tube going from the back of the refrigerator to the icemaker tray became plugged with ice. It was difficult to get it out due to the ice but once I did it was easy to melt it and put it back together. All's well that ends well and avoid the cost of a repair call. Working great now.

I removed the ice maker with 3 screws after having shut off the water. I tried getting the part locally but thought it was a bit much. Of course after having had ordered the wrong part, PS51041 and having it over nighted here and paying the return shipping I would have saved money getting it locally. When I finally got the right part I used the power cable and level lever off the old maker and reinstalled the ice maker in just a few minutes with a nut driver and screwdriver. Thurning on the water in about and hour it started making ice. When ordering online make sure you can get a large enough diagram to see what you are getting. If you can't ,call their phone number ant talk to a live person.

replaced water valve and new icemaker.

Replaced water valve, piece of cake, ice maker works like a charm....

Used online resources to deteremine that it was either the icemaker not telling the valve to open or the valve no opening so ordered both and started with the valve (cheaper part). Turn off the water, removed the mounting screws, disconnected the plug, removed the water line (used the wet vac to suck up water while it leaked out). and disconnected the inlet line. Reconnected everything in reverse order but left unmounted until sure it worked, turned water on and waited.

This water valve is slightly different from the original on my older GE refrigerator (i.e., the mounting bracket is larger and oriented differently, thus doesn't fit). To still use the part, I first tried mounting the new valve on my original bracket, but this resulted in a sideways mounting of the solenoid/magnet valve. This orientation generated a slower and noisier water pumping action (the solenoid/magnet valve is assisted by gravity, so it needs be installed with the top of the solenoid facing up). Then I opted to use the original valve plastic housing and bracket and switch out all rubber seals and gaskets and the enitire solenoid/magnet assembly from the new one. This worked like brand new.

Water Intake valve for icemaker in Amana refrigerator
We found that the icemaker was not getting water due to a faulty intake valve. The original valve had a plastic coupling on the vinyl tube leaving the valve. The replacement valve had a quick connect coupling. Replacing the valve with the new part gave a significant leak. After discussion and viewing YouTube directions multiple times, the part was returned; and a new part was sent. It also leaked.
After searching, a video was found that dealt with the no-fail quick connect. The problem was not in the quick connect but in the tube from our refrigerator which had a spring inside the last five inches of the tube. This aided the prevention of a leak when the original plastic coupling had been installed.
SOLUTION: Removing the part of the tube with the spring using a clean cut allowed the quick connect to work preventing the leak. This needs to be mentioned in the how-to videos to save others having a problem. Also, these instructions with the part would be helpful.

The longer than usual repair times shown above were the result of the spring insert in the plastic water tube of the refrigerator. Nowhere in the how-to instructions were references made of either an insert in the tube or quick connect procedures.

We were well pleased with the support rendered by the PartSelect staff.

Took the ice maker out with three screws hving turned water off and unplugging fridge. Put a new one back in with the three screws. plugged fridge back in and turned water on. All done and everthing worked fine.

Ronald Stonis