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See part 19 in the diagram
( Grid squares measure 1x1 inch )

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Infinite Control Switch

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$115.19   Special Order

Get this part fast! Average delivery time for in-stock parts via standard shipping: 1.8 days.

 Fits your CBC980SN1SS!
 Fits your CBC980SN1SS!
PartSelect Number PS1016429
Manufacturer Part Number WB24T10119
Manufactured by GE
Troubleshooting
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Element will not heat
This part works with the following products:
Range, Cooktop.
This part works with the following products:
General Electric, Kenmore, Hotpoint.
Part# WB24T10119 replaces these:
AP3873795, 1166982, WB24K10066, WB24T10032, WB24T10057
Questions and Answers

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20 questions answered by our experts.
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Richard
February 12, 2018
Need to replace cook top burner control ps1016429. Do I remove cook top or front control panel cover to access ? Any details on how to remove is appreciated.
For model number CS980ST4SS
Hi Richard, Thank you for the question. For your model number you do not need to remove the cooktop, just the front panel. Here is a link to a video that may help. It is not the same appliance but same basic steps for the switch. Hope this helps! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7hoJqv_pQvg

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Danny
February 19, 2018
I purchased a wb24t10119 range surface element control switch but lost my photo of where all the wired hook up on the switch. Do you have instructions for where each colored wire goes?
For model number CS980SN2SS
Hi Danny, Thank you for the question. The Red wire should go to the P1 terminal. The Black to P2, Yellow to the Pilot. The Blue, Brown,Yellow or Orange go the the terminal marked 4 and terminal 2 is also Blue, Brown,Yellow or Orange. Hope this helps!

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Mike
December 11, 2017
Will this work for the GE cooktop above? Left rear burner doesn't get warm/hot. Already replaced element receptacles. Thanks.
For model number JP328WF1WW
Hi Mike, Thank you for the question.Yes,this switch works on all four burners for the model number provided. Good luck with the repair!

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Danny
February 19, 2018
I purchased a wb24t10119 range surface element control switch but lost my photo of where all the wires hook up on the switch. Do you have instructions for where each colored wire goes? My wire colors are brown, brown/red, black, red, gray. My range is a GE cafe cs980sn2ss i received an answer this morning but the colors didn't match.
Hi Danny, Thank you for the question. The Red wire should go to the P1 terminal. The Black to P2, Yellow to the Pilot. The Blue, Brown,Yellow or Orange go the the terminal marked 4 and terminal 2 is also Blue, Brown,Yellow or Orange. Hope this helps!

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Charles
September 17, 2019
Power light stays on and the dual burner is warm (not hot)
For model number JP356BM3BB
Hello Charles, Thank you for the question. This normally indicates the switch that controls the element is defective and should be replaced. Hope this helps!

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Charles
October 3, 2019
Does part # ps1016429 work on the dual burner ( right front ) on this model ? I replaced the old switch with this one but now the dual burner center element doesn't come on. The outer element does.
For model number JP356B m3bb
Hello Charles, thank you for writing. Yes, this Infinite Control Switch part number PS1016429 is the correct replacement for that burner. You may want to consider replacing the Haliant Element itself, part number PS3486730 for your model to fix this. Good luck with your repair!

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Guy
May 2, 2022
Hi, I have to replace the infinite switch on the front left side of my range. It has a 8" burner and a Bridge surface unit. Which switch do I need? Thanks
For model number JCS966SD1SS
Hello Guy, Thank you for contacting us. We have researched the model you have provided and have found the part you are looking for is PartSelect Number PS236785. If you need help placing an order, customer service is open 7 days a week. Please feel free to give us a call. We look forward to hearing from you!

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Related Parts:
Jesse
January 24, 2018
I need the switch at the bottom labeled 19 but why is it different than the other 19’s?
For model number JP350SC1SS
Hi Jesse, Thank you for your question. You have three different switches in your appliance and they apply to the different burners that you have. You have a switch for your 1200 watt burner, a switch for your 1900 watt burner, and a switch for the two other burners. I hope that helps. Good luck with your repair.

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Sal
April 27, 2018
Oven works fine, but the entire cooking surface is dead
For model number CS980ST3SS
Hello Sal, Thank you for your inquiry. We would recommend checking the following parts to fix your issue: infinite control switches for each burner and the main control board. Also inspect the wiring for any visible damage. You can test the parts with a multimeter. Hope this helps!

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Dale
February 18, 2019
I have a red hot light on all the time for the front right burner, but the burner will not heat up, Could this be the element ?Thanks
For model number JB968KK1CC
Hello Dale, Thank you for the question. The light is controlled by the burner switch. Since you are having issues with both the element and the light, I suggest replacing the switch, PartSelect Number PS236753. Thank you for your inquiry, good luck with this repair!

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Related Parts:
Customer Repair Stories
 Average Repair Rating: 3.8 / 5.0, 11 reviews. What's this?
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Switch failed
I turned off the circuit breaker and tested the cook top. I pulled the cook top out and laid a piece of plywood over the opening to work on the cook top and not scratch the granite counter top. The mistake I made was to turn the cook top upside down and separate the top from the housing. The dampening springs came off the burners and I could have damaged the elements (but they checked out ok). I turned the whole assembly right side up again and replaced the switch and put it all back together. It works great...thank you for the part.
Other Parts Used:
  • John from Fresno, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
32 of 46 people found this instruction helpful.
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Electric range burner not working due to control switch
Turned off power to counter top range and pulled-up from counter. Set range on counter and removed 16 screws from around the housing allowing me to pull-up and remove range top. Used socket to remove 4 screws holding control switch bracket in place and 2 screws holding bad switch in place. Disconnect wires from bad switch and reconnected to new switch. Placed and screwed switch bracket back in place. Before placing range top back I turned power back on to to test burner operation. Burner and switch operated correctly and I completed screwing range top back in place, setting back down into counter top. Done
Other Parts Used:
  • Rodney from Erath, LA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Socket set
21 of 28 people found this instruction helpful.
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RF Dual Burner out. Smoke in the area of controls
Shut off circuit breaker. Removed cooktop from island counter. Removed all knobs. Removed all screws after finding layout diagrams of unit on your web site. Lifted glass top from metal cabinet. Ordered control after trouble shooting the problem. (Master Electrician). Obviously burned out from water in control. Ordered control on line and installed it when it arrived three days later. Before installing control I cleaned and dried out the area. I cleaned the glass top around all the control shaft holes and the rubber boots and lubricated them with silicone to help keep them dry and for ease of turning controls. Turned on circuit breaker and checked all burners, pilot light and hot top indicating lights.
Other Parts Used:
  • Al from Ocala, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
12 of 15 people found this instruction helpful.
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Front left burner not heating enough
June 2019
0. TURNED OFF CIRCUIT BREAKER !!!
1. Lifted cooktop out of counter cutout. (It wasn't anchored)
2. I had just enough slack in the armored power cable to set the cooktop on the edge of the countertop cutout.
3. Removed black plastic control knobs
4. Removed about a dozen short screws around perimeter of cooktop. I think those were phillips head screws.
5. Lifted glass top straight up. Had to wiggle it a bit, to get the rubber washers on the control shafts, to slide up.
6. The new heater element did not have the 2 alignment brackets. These brackets have holes that slip over metal pins at each end. So, I removed the brackets from the old element, and attached them to the new element.
7. Set new heater element on top of old. Using needle nose pliers, pulled wires off of old element and clipped onto new element - ONE AT A TIME.
8. Slide old element out, and place new element brackets over alignment pins.
9. Now, on to the Infinite control switch. Removed a few screws around the metal housing that the controls are attached to.
10. Removed the 2 screws that hold the control to the metal housing.
11. Switched wires from old control to new - ONE AT A TIME. (Pay attention to the position of the wire blades on the control, and align it to match the old control, so that you will get the wires from the old control, onto the correct blades of the new control.)
12. Attached new control to metal housing, using 2 screws.
13. Re-assemble - Place glass top over control shafts.
14. Attach glass top by installing all of those short screws around the perimeter.
15. Place cooktop back into countertop cutout.
16. Turn on the circuit breaker.
17. Test all heating elements.
-------------
Other notes - I actually removed the entire cooktop, including disconnecting the power connection, so that we could replace our kitchen countertop.
One issue was that the new quartz countertop was 3/8" thinner than the old Formica top. So, the bottom of the cooktop was resting 3/8" lower than before. The shallow drawer below the cooktop was now hitting the bottom of the cooktop. My solution was to cut 3/8" off the back of the drawer. Problem solved.
Good luck y'all.
Other Parts Used:
Dual Radiant Element with Limiters - 4400W
  • Jim from MILFORD CTR, OH
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
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Control awitch was bad
Just note the wire colors and match them where they go on the new control, remove and replace 7 screws and a zip tie and I was done.
Other Parts Used:
  • Gary from CLEARWATER, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
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Two burners were not working
I got someone to look at the stove. They told me what I needed. I looked all over the Internet and couldn't find the part. One guy told me just to buy a new stove top because mine was an antique. It still looked good and two burners were still working. I didn't give up. I found the part on partselect bsite and was thrilled. It shipped fast and was exactly the right part. Now my stove works like new.
Other Parts Used:
  • Terri from Leesburg, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
3 of 10 people found this instruction helpful.
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knob thermostat burnt out
it went well as compared to getting a new ~~800$ cooktop and ~~150 to install, I took a shot for 30$ bucks and it worked great!! problem solved and great support ! !! thanks for all your help
Other Parts Used:
  • John from CENTERPORT, NY
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
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Replace Infiniti Switch
Turn off breaker, disconnect electrical wiring, remove cooktop from courter top, turn over , remove switch.
Other Parts Used:
  • Ezekiel from FLORISSANT, MO
  • Difficulty Level:
    Very Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set
1 person found this instruction helpful.
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cooktop switch broken
Really easy. Part came in rapid time and was the right part. Went on web and got instructions with video how to install.
Other Parts Used:
  • kathleen from Wynantskill, NY
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Socket set
1 person found this instruction helpful.
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The main burner on our GE glass cooktop stopped working. It would glow red and work for a second, then go black.
I thought it was the burner thermostat, so I replaced the burner unit. By coincidence, the ceramic outer portion of the burner was cracked in two places, but otherwise intact. That was not the problem, though since the new burner did the same thing as the old one. Then I new it was the Infinite Control Switch, so I ordered it. Replacing it was easy. I turned off the cooktop circuit breaker and made sure no power was going to it. It is powered by 240 volts so you need to be very careful to turn off the power before doing any servicing on it. I then carefully pried up the glass cooktop and lifted it out, so it wouldn't break. By taking off the control knobs, and removing several small Phillips head screws all around the metal cooktop frame and just under the edge of the glass cooktop, I could lift the glass top off from the cooktop, and place it on some newspaper so it didn't get broken. It is important to keep the rest of the cooktop upright. The burners are not fastened down, and only gravity holds them in place. They normally sit on two springloaded pins, one on each side, and the weight of the glasstop pushes them down to their proper setting. So don't mess with them, and make sure each side remains on the two pins after you're done and before putting the glasstop back on. As for the switch, you need to remove two small 1/4 inch metal screws (a socket is very handy for this), one on each side of a metal framework that holds all the switches. After removing that framework, I carefully turned it over and found the correct switch for the burner that wasn't working. In my case, it was the closest right hand burner, which is also the biggest and has the option of having a big, small or both elements turned on, depending on how you turn the control switch. I then carefully pulled off each wire lead, with a needlenose plier to avoid damaging them, and immediately put each wire onto the corresponding same connection on the new switch. Take a close look at the wires on the old switch to make sure you plug them into the same connectors on the new switch. It's pretty straightforward. There may have been one or two small screws holding the switch onto the framework, but I don't recall right now. It was very easy to see how to remove and then reattach it. Then reverse the above steps and reinstall the cooktop, turn on the power and you should be in business!
Other Parts Used:
  • Steve from Seattle, WA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
1 person found this instruction helpful.
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Customer Reviews
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Model Cross Reference
This part works with the following models:
PartSelect Number: PS1016429
Manufacturer Part Number: WB24T10119
Brand
Model Number
Description
Kenmore
36342482200
Cooktop
Kenmore
36342484200
Cooktop
Kenmore
36342489200
Cooktop
Kenmore
36343482200
Cooktop
Kenmore
36343484200
Cooktop
Kenmore
36343489200
Cooktop
Kenmore
91142404100
Cooktop - 30" COUNTER UNIT
Kenmore
91142414100
Cooktop - ELECTRIC COOKTOP
Kenmore
91142701100
Cooktop
Kenmore
91142702100
Cooktop
Kenmore
91142704100
Cooktop
Kenmore
91142709100
Cooktop
Kenmore
91142711100
Cooktop
Kenmore
91142712100
Cooktop
Kenmore
91142719100
Cooktop
Kenmore
91199002990
Range
Kenmore
91199002991
Range
Kenmore
91199002992
Range
Kenmore
91199003990
Range
Kenmore
91199003991
Range
Kenmore
91199003992
Range
Kenmore
91199004990
Range
Kenmore
91199004991
Range
Kenmore
91199004992
Range
Kenmore
91199009990
Range
Kenmore
91199009991
Range
Kenmore
91199009992
Range
General Electric
CBC980SN1SS
Range
General Electric
CBC980ST1SS
Range
General Electric
CBC980ST2SS
Range

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