These agitator directional cogs are commonly referred to as dog ears. They come four to a package and are usually used with direct drive washing machines.
$5.60
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This coupling kit is located between the motor and the transmission on direct drive washers with no belt. This is the newer version and is made with new metal sleeves for added strength.
$35.54
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This pump is intended for use with washing machines that do not have belts. This drain pump has two ports for water to pass through: a large one, and a smaller one.
$62.18
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The agitator kit is most commonly used if the top part of the agitator is not moving correctly but the bottom is. This kit now includes all pieces shown in photo plus the thrust spacer, inner cap seal...
$31.52
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The suspension spring supports the outer tub and keeps the tub steady during loads that could cause an unbalance. If this part breaks, is worn down or has stretched out and lost its spring, it could c...
$9.68
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A worn clutch can cause a slower spin speed which will leave your clothes wet after a cycle. This clutch assembly comes with brake cam driver, blue spring for large capacity washers and black spring f...
$39.16
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This 18 ml bottle of white appliance touch-up paint is used to cover scratches or marks on your appliance. The white touch-up paint can be used on refrigerators, microwaves, ranges, clothes dryers, an...
$9.68
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This white thrust spacer is made of plastic and is also commonly referred to as a retainer ring. It is used in the agitator assembly of many direct drive washing machine models. This is the retaining ...
$8.64
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Also known as an O-Ring. This black o-ring seal is three inches in diameter.
$20.04
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Questions And Answers for WTW5200SQ0
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Pierre
January 20, 2020
I can't remove the panel. I removed the 2 screws on the side in the back of the panel, tried to insert a putty knife on either side, but nothing is moving. Any suggestions? Thanks
For model number WTW5200SQ0
Hello and thank you for writing.
We are not sure which panel it is you are trying to open, but we believe it is the back panel.
Step 1
Unplug the Whirlpool washer and turn off the water lines. You should see a pair of hoses with oval handles near the wall. Turn the handles clockwise to shut off both the cold and hot water lines.
Step 2
Locate the screws on either side of the washer console. The console is the panel with the control dials that sits along the back edge of the top of the washer. Use a Phillips-head screwdriver to remove each screw.
Step 3
Slide the console toward the front of the machine. When the tabs under the console have cleared the slots in the top of the washer cabinet, lift it up and roll it open on its hinges.
Step 4
Unplug the console from the top of the washer. You will see several wires harnessed together that are connected to the washer. Press the tab on the plug and pull it out.
Step 5
Remove the flat, wavy silver metal clips that connect the top of the washer cabinet to the rear panel. There will be one clip located in the slots on each side in the area that is normally covered by the console. Use a flat head screwdriver to pry the ends of the clips out from the top of the cabinet. This will loosen the tension so that the other end slides down and out of the tab on the back pan.
Step 6
Slide the ends of the clips out from the back panel.
Step 7
Open the washer's lid and tilt the washer cabinet toward you, separating it from the back panel.
We hope this helps. Please contact us anytime if you require further assistance.
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Charles
June 12, 2023
All hoses on back panel
Water leaks when filling
What do I order??
For model number WTW5200SQ0
Hi Charles, thank you for your inquiry. Based on the description that you have provided, we would recommend making sure that the water lines are not damaged. If that is not the case, then you may need to check the water inlet valve, part number PS11746765, as it is most likely faulty and may need to be replaced. We hope this sorts out your problem!
Hello Cesar, thank you for contacting us. The compatible timer for your model is part number PS11746777. If you need help placing an order for it, please feel free to give us a call!
The job looked intimidating but turned out to be very easy. First take off the water pump by removing the two clips that hold it in place. Place a shallow pan under the pump to catch the water that is in the pump and hoses. Open the hose clamps with a pair of pliers or channel locks (better) and slide the hoses off of the water pump. The motor comes off next. Unplug the electrical connector from the motor and two wires from the capacitor. Remove the two screws holding the clamps in place and then pop off the two clamps. You will need to hold up the motor with one hand while you remove the clamps or it will fall to the floor once the clamps are removed. One piece of the coupling assemble will be attached to the motor and the other will be attached to the gearcase drive shaft. If you want to clean up the mess created by the shredded rubber center piece of the coupling assembly you will have to take off the motor mounting plate. It is held on by two bolts and removing it makes installing the coupling easier but probably not necessary. Push the back half of the coupling on to the gearcase drive shaft until the shaft is flush with the face of the coupling. Install the new rubber center piece on to the coupling then re-install the motor mounting plate. Install the other half of the coupling on to the motor shaft and lift the motor up to the coupling. You have to rotate the motor shaft by spinning the fan blades until the coupling lines up so you can slide it into the other half of the coupling. Then just reattach the motor, connectors and water pump in the reverse order of disassembly.
First pry off the cap of the agitator. Then using a socket remove the bolt that holds the plastic cup in place. Remove this cup by prying it loose from the two tabs that hold it in place. Once this cup is removed you can get to the broken cogs. Slip the new cogs into the underside of the cup, and slide the cup back down in the agitator housing using the slots on the side for a guide. (You may want to remove the entire agitator and assemble everything upside down, then flip it all back over to mount, so the cogs don't fall out). Tighten the bolt, snap the cap back in place on top of the agitator and your'e done. Easy repair.
The instructions came with the repair kit, it was fairly simple and straight foward.
One bolt held the entire agitator unit in the washer, as well as held the upper and lower halves together. Once that nut was removed the two halves seperated and the plastic clutch pieces could easily be replaced wtih the new onces in the repair kit.
Very easy do-it-yourself repair! Took about 20 minutes because I was being cautious. Next time I could do it in 5 minutes.
