This Refrigerator Air Filter is a white 1.8x3.2" plastic filter which neutralizes odor and bacteria in the air. It should be replaced every six months at a minimum. Refer to your user manual and model...
This manufacturer-certified Refrigerator Door Shelf Bin, also known as the crisper bin and door shelf bin, is made of clear plastic, and is easy to install. It is used to hold items in the fridge door...
This is an OEM replacement ice and water filter for your refrigerator. In side-by-side refrigerators, it is found in the top right corner or the bottom left grille. In bottom-freezer refrigerators, th...
This 18 ml bottle of white appliance touch-up paint is used to cover scratches or marks on your appliance. The white touch-up paint can be used on refrigerators, microwaves, ranges, clothes dryers, an...
This twenty-five watt microwave light bulb is two and a half inches long. It has a small, screw-in base and it carries 120V. This item sells in a quantity of one, though many microwaves require two.
If your refrigerator or freezer is too warm, or making noises, you may need to replace the fan blade. The fan blade attaches to the evaporator motor, which is in the freezer section, to help circulate...
The fan blade is used to blow air over the condenser.
$84.08
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Questions And Answers for WSF26C3EXF01
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Silvio
January 18, 2020
I have a question when the ice maker on the door is on, does it turn on a red light?
For model number WSF26C3EXF01
Hello and thank you for writing.
No, the light should not turn red. It certainly sounds like it could be a faulty Ice maker motor kit PS733947 and/or possibly a faulty or clogged water filter PS11701542, you should check for signs of damage, and replace as necessary. We hope this helps. Please contact us anytime if you require further assistance.
Ice maker and water dispenser operates intermittently. The ice maker is especially quirky but the water works most of the time. The water dispenser has a tendency to sometimes only dispense about 3 oz of water and then stops and other time it will dispense water after it stops and you pull the glass away. . I have replaced the water filter twice also had a Whirlpool authorized technician check the refrigerator. He is not sure what the problem is. My question is this. Is it more likely to the dispenser control board on the front or the main control board in the rear?
For model number WSF26C3EXF01
Hi Roland. It is more likely to be the dispenser board. Thank you for your question and good luck with your repair.
My refrigerator side freezes food. Temperature is set at 45 degrees. What part do i need to repair this issue?
For model number WSF26C3EXF01
Hello Judy, thank you for you question. When the fridge section is freezing up, it is usually an airflow issue. The air damper controls the airflow and may be stuck open or faulty. The air damper is located where the cold air enters the fresh food compartment. Inspect the air damper and if you find it to be faulty, replace it. Part number PS11723079. You can test the other parts with a multi meter. Make sure you cut power to your appliance before doing any repairs or tests. First you should test your defrost thermostat, part number: PS11740424. Place the thermostat in ice cold water for 2-3 minutes after removing it from your appliance. It should be reading 0 ohms to be working correctly. You could also check your Capacitor, part number: PS11757023. Make sure after unplugging your capacitor you release any electrical charge. You can do this with a screwdriver that has an insulated handle. When testing your capacitor set your meter to 1000 ohms. Touch your probes to the terminals on the part. If your meter stays on 0 then your capacitor needs to be replaced. These are the most common parts that cause this issue in your appliance. So, it is suggested you check them first. We hope that helps. Good luck with your repair.
Fridge shuts down & have to unplug from wall and plug back in to restart happens about every couple months some times less then 2 months.
For model number WSF26C3EXF01
Hi Rick, thank you for contacting us. Based on our understanding, we would suggest checking the main control board, part number PS12346909. It manages the functions of the refrigerator such as cooling and defrost times. You may need to replace it to fix the issue. We hope that helps!
I knew the chances of all the freon leaking out was unlikely so I looked at the wiring to the compressor and there was a capacitor and a starter/overload so i figured I would start there. I went on line and found the parts at this site and they were less than the minimum service call charge for a service tech so I figured what the heck let's give her a shot so I did give it a shot. I ordered the parts and they were there in less time than a service tech could come out and i installed the parts and guess what for 90.00 in parts and 15 minutes in time I repaired my refrigerator. Thanks guys, It took less time to order the parts than it did to make the repair so thanks, your website rocks and is very well designed so my hat is off to you guys!
WARNING: REPLACING THIS PART REQUIRES CUTTING AND SPLICING ELECTRICAL WIRES. RISK OF ELECTRICAL SHOCK OR FIRE. DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS REPAIR IF YOU ARE NOT EXPERIENCED WITH ELECTRICAL WIRING.
Part Info: The bi-metal strip is clipped onto the evaporator coils and is designed to regulate the defrost coil temperature. If it is not functioning properly you may notice ice buildup preventing air flow (and preventing proper refrigeration), or more rarely the freezer side may get too warm during the defrost cycle.
1: UNPLUG THE FRIDGE! If there is ice buildup, wait until the ice has melted. A box fan blowing at the ice will help melt it more quickly.
2: Remove the panel covering the evaporator coils. It's located inside the fridge, on the freezer side.
3: Un-clip the bi-metal strip from the evaporator coils.
4: Unplug the wires from the evaporator fan, defrost coil and bi-metal strip, then disconnect the main connector that is plugged into the rear wall.
5: Clip both wires to the old ( bad ) bi-metal strip. Cut close to the casing of the bi-metal strip so there are long wires to splice onto.
6: Strip 1/4 to 1/2 inches of insulation off of the ends of the wires ( depending on the size of the wire-nuts you use). Twist the bare wires slightly to prevent fraying.
7: Do the same for the ends of the wires on the (new) bi-metal strip.
8: Take the ends of the wires belonging to the (new) bi-metal strip and the wires coming from the main plug. Take the like-colored wires, and twist the bare metal ends together.
9: Twist on wire nuts, for both sets of wires. Make sure they are snug, with no bare wire showing.
10: Tape over the wire nuts with electrical tape. Tape over the wires nuts in a spiral fashion, completely covering the nut and both wires that are now spliced together. This will prevent accidental shorting.
11: Plug the main plug back into the rear wall of the fridge. Also re-connect the connectors to the evaporator fan and defrost coil. Make sure the clips on the connectors are snug to ensure a good connection.
12: Clip the new bi-metal strip onto the coils, in the same spot as before. ( Usually just after the small incoming copper tubing that connects to the coils, known as the expansion valve. That is usually the coldest spot on the coils during operation).
13: Replace the panel that covers the coils.
14: Plug the fridge back in... Now you fridge should defrost correctly. If it does not, your defrost coil could be burned out, or the control board could be faulty.
1) removed the face plate that runs 3/4 way up the back of the freezer side. a total of 8 screws. (6") 2) disconnected the three electrical connections.(30sec) 3) removed the fan of the the old evaporator fan motor (5sec) 3) removed the fan motor (1") 4) put in the new fan motor (1") 5) put on the old fan on the new fan motor(5sec) 6) reconnected the three electrical connections (30sec) 7) replaced the face plate on the back of the freezer (6") Had re-frozen meat within 1 hour.
