This heating element is strung with a coiled wire made of a nickel and a chrome alloy. This wire receives, but resists, a controlled electric current, causing the wire to heat up. The heat produced is...
This drum support roller is sold individually. Most dryers require two. The tri-rings are included. This is a drum support roller for a dryer. It is a genuine replacement part. The part includes the d...
This thermal cut-off kit for a dryer includes one high limit thermostat with a limit of 250 degrees Fahrenheit, and one thermal cut-off fuse (309 degrees). This kit also includes flat heaters with jumper wires.
This thermostat may differ in appearance, but functions the same as the original part. This part controls the temperature of the inside of the dryer drum and prevents the dryer from overheating.
If you notice that your dryer is noisy or will not tumble, you may need to replace the tri ring. This part is triangular, and is less than an inch in size. Tri rings can be found both on the idler pul...
This 18 ml bottle of white appliance touch-up paint is used to cover scratches or marks on your appliance. The white touch-up paint can be used on refrigerators, microwaves, ranges, clothes dryers, an...
The blower wheel is a squirrel cage type wheel whose purpose is to move the air through the room or appliance. The blower wheel spins on the motor shaft to blow air through the dryer drum and out through the exhaust.
$46.71
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Questions And Answers for WED6600WL0
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Corwin
February 8, 2020
Dryer is making a screeching noise as it turns like a bearing etc is going out or is gone
For model number WED6600WL0
Hello and thank you for writing.
It certainly sounds like it could be faulty belt and pulleys PS373087 you should check the part(s) for signs of damage, and replace the part(s) as needed. We hope this helps. Please contact us anytime if you require further assistance.
Hi Kevin, thank you for reaching out. The idler pulley for your model is part number PS11722120. To access the idler pulley, you may need to remove the top and the front panel of the dryer, and secure the tub. Once you lift out the tub, you will have access to the idler pulley. We also have attached a relevant video to help you locate the idler pulley. Glad to be of assistance!
First I unplugged the dryer, then removed the back panel, this exposed most all of the wiring and I could see the heater coils. Not knowing what the problem was I started looking at the coils and could not see any broken parts. So then checked the thermal fuse for continuity I removed the two wires from it with a small pair of needle nose pliers, it was held in place by two screws, once they were removed the fuse came out easily, I checked continuity with a volt meter placing the meter on X1 Ohms and could not get a reading. I replaced with a new one and put it all back together the way I took it apart. Then I plugged it in and it worked first time, I now have warm dry clothes.
To reach the heating element you only need to open the back cover of the dryer (about 8 nut-head screws). Remember to disconnect the power.
To remove the heating element there are two small nut-head screws. Remove the two electric wires. Then you can pull the heating element away.
You can check the heating element with an ohm-meter or visually inspect it to see if the heating element spiral wire is broken.
Don't hurry to dispose the old element. My model includes a small electric safety part. You'll need to transfer it to the new heating element (that comes without it)..
First tried heating element and thermal fuse with no luck. Ordered thermal cutoff and fixed problem. Had I used an ohm meter first I would have determined problem before having ordered heating element and fuse, as both had resistance. I wast just lazy and ordered the took the most common failed components first before taking dryer back off.
