WCVH6800J1WW General Electric Washer - Instructions

I had to replace the door gasket because there was a small piece that had torn away, which caused large amounts of water to leak when the load of laundry was too big. Smaller loads of laundry would just produce a little bit of water.
Unsure of how to replace the gasket, I used a phillips screwdriver to pull the door and front panel off. I thought that this would be pretty simple, but I soon discovered that it wasn't as simple as removing several screws and pulling the pieces off. The door was easy, the bottom panel was easy, but the front panel was held in place by screws, plastic tabs, the front of the gasket (I'll explain later), and gravity by means of plastic supports. Trying to find and release the tabs, lifting the panel up and out was not self-explanatory. I finally figured it out, and it made changing the gasket out, a breeze. The gasket is held in by two diferent wire spring clamps/bands. One band holds the gasket to the outside of the tub, and the other band holds the gasket to the front panel. Before removing the front panel you must remove the first band which is cleverly hidden by the face of the rubber gasket. Just peel it back...it's in there. I was able to pull/pry this off with a screwdriver because I was not worried about damaging the old gasket. The second band had to be removed with either a 6mm/7mm wrench(I can't remember which) or a stubby phillips screwdriver. The stubby screwdriver is handy because of the proximity of the tubs counterweights. Once the final band is removed just peel the gasket away from the tub, after taking note of how it came off. Put the fully loosened band on the new gasket and fit the new gasket into place. It helped to have two sets of hands to work it around the tub, but probably not necessary. The wrench is necessary to properly tighten the band, because you cannot get enough torque on the stubby screwdriver.Once the gasket is in place you can re-install the front panel, and secure the front of the gasket to the panel. Install the band and it will secure itself by the tension of the spring. Put the door back on and you are ready to wash clothes.

Ordered new Parts. Removed old/worn parts. Found that the "hammering" from a loose pulley had worn and deformed the edges of the shaft where the flats are to accept new pulley.
Gently filed the flats with the flat surface of the file and filed the hump on the shaft that the "hammering" created. Take extreme caution to not file surfaces too much, because new pulley will be loose and the next step is to replace the drum shaft.($$$$) Pulley did not fit 100% (Had some slop) but that was from material being worn away from "hammering" effect. Torqued with Torque wrench and added green 609 loctite compound - this is meant to help adhere and take up some loose fit in assemblies. - Drawback to Loctite is most have to be heated to 300 to 400 degrees to remove, or pulley will need to be cut off and ruined, I further repair/removal of pulley is necessary. This is an Easy Fix/Replacement of parts.... The hard part is filing the drum shaft surfaces to accept the new pulley, and getting the belt back on - Belt is tight but needs to be stretched on like putting a bike chain back on.

Washer now spins and sounds like a dream!
- Good Luck!

Remove the front coverfrom the machine. This is done by removing the 3 screws at the bottom of the panel. The panel then drops down and pulls straight off. The pump is located on the front right wall of the of the machine. You will notice a 2-3 inch diamete threaded cap on the right side of the front wall of the machine. This is the front of the pump and access to the filter. Place a large bucket under this cap and slowly loosen the cap. All of the water remaining in the machine will begin to drain (this could be a lot of water. Do not remove the cap completely so that you can quickly stop the flow of water if needed). Once all water is drained from the appliance, Disconnect the two hoses from the pump using a pair of pliers to looses the presure clamps, sliding the clamps back an then pulling off the hoses (be careful of any remaining water in the hoses). Then remove the two screws from the rear base of the pump that secure it to the bottom floor panel of the washer. Slide the pump slightly to the rear to free it from the fittings on the front wall of the machine and the lift the pump up. At this point, firmly pull out the wiring harness plugged into the top right side of the pump. Install the new pump by plugging in the wiring harness and resecuring the pump. Plug in the machine and run on the rinse and spin cycle to test.

I read and reread all of the installation repairs everyone had sent in. Everyone said on the average it would take 1-2 hours. I partly started the install myself and the ran into a problem. My wife was my helping second hands( second hands is a great help) and she suggested to either google or YouTube the repair. Within minutes I had found one on you tube and it help me tremendously. it had the exact model washer on the video and the install was a breeze. I would recommend looking up the repair cause they show step by step video and makes it a lot easier.

I took the two drain hoses off with the pliers then only two screws that holds the pump. After that the two hot wires which are black and white. But remember to unplug you're washer since the pump is not grounded you don't want to risk being shocked. Hope thi helps. Plus i saved around 250.00 by repairing myself.

Removed the three screws behind the top panel and slide it back to remove. Removed control panel then the two lower screws on the front panel the spring around the front of the gasket and slid up the front assembly to remove. Door lock was on front panel held by 2 screws and then loosened clamp around back of gasket and the gasket removed easily. The installation was easy nothing special to do and the problem was solved.

I Disconnected power to machine and shut off water supply lines. Move washer away from wall and removed supply lines.(good time to replace them if older than five years) Where these supply lines attach to the washer is the water valve you are replacing. There are 3 screws on the back of the cabinet lid, then on the front 3 more screws hold the lid to the plastic control housing. After removing screws you need to slide the lid up and towards the back of the machine app. 1 1/2"to 2" before you can raise the lid up and off of the machine. Once the lid is off it is just one screw holding the valve, and a hose clamp that needs removed from the end of the valve. Then slide valve to the right (looking from front of machine to the back.) I left the wires attached to the old valve,installed the new valve then reattached the wires in the same order as they were on the old valve to avoid confusion. (note valve must slide into place to get screw to line up.)assemble is reverse of the above steps. Don't forget to level machine. Be careful attaching water supply lines plastic valve threads can strip without much effort.

I took the outer retainer clamp off and pulled the outer seal off the front of the washer. Then pushed the seal inward to see the rear seal and its wire clamp. Took a philips head screwdriver (short handel) and loosened the clamp. Pulled the clamp out and then the rubber boot. Put new boot on the tub (rear - this took a little while to make sure the seal was correctly in place.) Make sure the boot is lined up with the two hose connections. Intstall wire clamp, this took some time because there is not a whole lot of room to get your hands in there to tighten. Connect the two hoses to the boot and the boot to the front of the washer. Install outer wire clamp. Done.

With a wife that doesn't check pockets before doing laundry, it's important to check the drain filter located under the removable panel below the door of our front loader washer from time to time. It had been a while since I cleared this filter and there had been some standing water and drainage problems with the machine for a time. I believe the standing water and the fact that our machine is located in an un-heated utility room in the house has lead to an excess of mildew buildup on the main gasket of the machine. I believed it too far gone to save. No leaks, just a nasty looking gasket. Anyway, the new gasket had obviously been improved from the original design. The rubber seemed to be thicker in some areas from the original and also included a handle of sorts that looked designed to ease future removals though it didn't help in the installation. The install is moderately difficult given the confined space to work with. Getting the back retainer ring in place and tightened down was very difficult. I would say it took about 45 minutes. I believe the new gasket is a better one than the gasket it replaced. Again it appeared to be bolstered with more material than the old one. This is a good thing considering the paperclips, change, and hair clips I found in the filter. FYI, a short narrow handled Philips head screw driver would have helps quite a bit. Anyhow, it's on and working just fine.

I unplugged the power cord from the wall outlet, then I had to remove the top panel off the machine by removing the three phillips screws holding the back trim strip to the front top of the machine, than I removed the three 1/4 inch head screws holding the top panel found at the back top of machine. I now pulled the top pannel to the rear and removed the top pannel. Then I used pliers to squeeze open and slide clear the small clamp to the rubber hose to the valve and removed the hose end to the valve. Then I carefully pulled off the four wire connectors to the two solenoids of the valve.
Than I removed the one 1/4 inch head screw found on the back side of the machine securing the valve to the machine. Then I removed the valve by sliding it to the mounting screw side to disengage it.
Install the valve in reverse order but I tightened the valve holding screw only till it's seated because it screws into soft plastic. 6/15/08

First I unpluged electrical cord. removed the 4 screws
on the back panel. I then loosen the (1) motor bolt that
you can adjust for tightness after you put the new
drive belt on the round pulley. Make sure the bolt in the center of the round pulley is tight. The round pulley should not wabble. Make sure not to over tighten the drive belt on the motor. A slight play is fine. Put back
panel on and plug electrical cord. Run washer cycle
on and check. Should be OK.

Remove bottom kick plate of washer. Remove 4 screws behind door that hold the latch/lock assembly. Reach up inside the washer from underneath to unplug 3 wire connectors. (This is a very tight spot). Once wires are off, part comes right out. Connect wires to the new part - this is by far the most difficult part of the job because it is way up inside the washer. Replace all bolts.
Overall, pretty easy to do - just reconnecting the wires is a pain, but if you are patient it is not a big deal.

I removed the front ring around door boot seal gasket, then I removed the interior ring whit a small screw driver and then put the new gasket back and the two rings and thats it.

I was able to get the 1st metal ring After trying everything to get the 2nd ring off I ended up calling a repairman. It was just too hard for me get my hand into the area to loosen the ring. It took repairman over 1 hr to complete job of installing the boot. After spending o$300, I just just shook my head. Hats off to the other people able to do it.

we took the advice of you tube. my husband said "WONT READ DIRECTIONS BUT WILL WATCH A VIDEO" and he fixed it no problem. it took about 1 1/2 hours per unit.