This an authentic OEM 40-Watt replacement light bulb, used in a number of household appliances. It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, which is why these replacement bulbs are mos...
The filter is made of metal and is intended for use with ranges and cooktops. As per the manufacturer, this filter may be 1/2" slimmer than the original, but will still function the same.
This is a multi-use and multi-appliance screw. It can be used on a microwave, refrigerator, range/oven, air conditioner, dehumidifier, washer, or dryer. The measurements of this screw are 8 x 1/2 inch...
This gas valve knob measures approximately 2 12 inches in diameter. It is a black knob that has white lettering aroud its perimeter denoting the different temperature levels: low, medium, high, etc. T...
To convert back to Natural Gas - you must save old orifices. If you no longer have the old orifices, the burner tubes must be ordered that contain the natural gas orifices.
Most of the repair was obvious as I took the blower apart before ordering the parts. Unfortunately the new motor was significantly larger than the original motor so I had to um. Adjust the position of some of the other parts to fit it in. There was a sheet metal flange that was installed on the other side of the blower from the motor which was designed to focus the air flow into the blower. I used a hammer to ajust the angle of flange so it no longer extended as far into the blower housing.
It works just fine although its a bit louder than the old motor was.
The oven seal replacement was very straight forward. Two screws held the door to the arms coming from the oven. I slid the door up off the arm and moved it to a workbench. This whole process should take about 15 minutes, a little longer if your unit is older and you want to clean as you go. Mine was fairly dirty and I gave it a cleaning as I removed parts. Unscrew all screws on the outer frame of the door, including two small ones on the side. Remove the outer frame and then the glass front and set them aside. A few more screws to remove the glass from the inner door, and even more on the remaining part of the door. You should also remove the screws holding the tiny brackets as well to release the portion that holds the oven seal in place. This is very straightforward, just keep pulling screws out until you can remove the old seal.
Once the old seal is out, insert the new one using the wire embedded in the seal as your guide...the gap in the seal goes to the bottom. Put everything back together and re-install the door. My door hinges were spring loaded and took a little effort to move them down so the door can be slipped on. This is a two person job since the hinges do not lock in place, they spring right back up flush with the oven and you cannot install the door. Re-install the two set screws holding the door to the hinges and you are done!
With the new seal in place, it felt a little puffy and the door did not seem to close as flush as it used to. This makes sense since the seal is new. I kept the door locked (like you would to use the oven cleaning cycle). I even kept it partially locked during cooking.
Frankly, the hardest part was the cleanup of nasty grease and dirt that built up over the past decade or so.
