NTW4500VQ0 Amana Washer - Instructions

removed 2 screws from back panel screwed in washer then to the top 2 out screws from the back of panel on the top pick up panel to remove set the face down on washer of then pulled black plastic stick out to remove timer knob then take out small screw from the front timer to remove timer from back side right or left to remove an d replace should only be 5 screw to take out not bad at all my 1st replace

After reading other comments about lid switch replacement , I knew the front of the control panel would move forward and lift off. Although none of the descriptions mention the steel clips that were also use to hold the cover down. It does take quite a bit of presure to pry these up and loose before panel would move forward. Would recomend putting tape on both washer and screwdriver to protect washer.

First I removed the fabric softener dispenser. I removed the inner cap seal and agitator retaining bolt. Then I firmly pulled up on the agitator to remove the complete agitator assembly. I replaced the inner cap seal and installed the new agitator bolt with rubber washer. I placed the new agitator assembly on the drive shaft and tightened the bolt. Lastly I installed the inner seal and the fabric softener dispenser. The total time spent was around 10 minutes.

unscrewed a bolt, pulled top agitator out and replaced parts and reinstalled.

Had to clean debris on metal drive shaft splines in orderv forvnew lower agiitator to seat properly. Install upper agitator and parts then reinsert bolt in upper agitator. Install cap and o-ring, fabric softner dispenser and test for proper operation.

Disconnected old power cord inside control cabinet, removed strain relief , then removed damaged power cord. Reinstalled new cord with new strain relief.

Sprayed wd40 - limescale - boiling water , NOTHING WORKED after half an hour reapeted spraying and pulling the tub and shaking it back and forth - still nothing
Finally I replaced the center nut loosely than putting a piece of wood on top of it and with me holding the tub slightly high - my wife than whacked it hard several times , I also was turning the tub every whack
When it came out it was full of rust and grime - it would have never come out without what we did
Replacing the the rubber washer was easy - machine works and no more leaking- thank you for your video which really helped to start the job

I disconnect power from wall outlets. Turn off pipes and remove water hoses from machine. Clear machine making room to operate.
I removed two Phillip head screws from behind the console, press down lightly on console then flipped it back. Disconnect the lid switch by releasing the plastic clip. Used a screwdriver to release the 2 metal holding clips (one on each side on top of machine. Ease the case up slightly then pull back gaining access to the centrifugal switch which is mounted to the motor with one Phillip head screw. One end of switch was broken and disconnected. Motor was not keeping up. Discharged capacitor by grounding the terminals with an insulated plyers. Lift the clip on the broken switch then pull the connector off. With new switch in hand, remove each of the 5 wires from the old switch by using a needle nose pliers one by one and connect them to the new switch making sure each one is properly secured in please. Connect the new switch to the motor using the single screw. Secure the connector to switch. Replace case by tilting back about 45 degrees, slide under front frame of machine all the way then down inplace. Use the two metal clips to secure frame to rear panel. Reconnect lid switch. Return machine to usual spot, reconnect water hoses, turn pipes on make sure there are no leaks. Plug back into wall outlet. Washer was tried and all cycles were completed.

Ordered part PS3408149 from partselect.com. Lifted Washer control panel with putty knife. Removed hinges (regular screwdriver, used as a crowbar rather than screwdriver) holding control panel to washer body. Moved washer body panel out of the way, and reviewed level sensor/level selector switch. Take handle off front of selector switch. Twist selector switch off from inside (90 degree turn till square inset lines up withsquare hole, then it will come out). Insert new selector switch. Remove old tubing. Fish new tubing through where old tubing was. Cut off extra tubing, then push tubing onto selector switch and tub basin (where old tubing was). Put washer back together. Done. Worked perfectly.

The switch just snapped out of the holding section and the new part was snapped back into its place. He put the top section back on and it worked! Being a woman not knowing anything about repairing machines, I thought it went very well. I just googled my problem with the washer, it sent me to this site saying what they thought was the problem, I live chatted with someone and they confirmed the solution. I ordered the part and it came in 2 days and my husband fixed it. And now I have a working washer again. Thank you for your site. Anne

Purchased lid trigger elsewhere but got the connector on line here after being told I would need to purchase complete wiring harness to correct. Once lid trigger was in i stripped the three wires that went to lid trigger and pushed thru the back side of the connector. Then I plugged into trigger. Now washer works again. Very easy to do.

The only tricky part was figuring out how to get to the part. There were only two screws that seemed likely candidates to pop off the control panel (on the back at the corners). Fortunately for me the obvious answer was the right one...the panel lifted up and the new part went in - very easy.

This was really easy and the part came in like 2 days. All I needed to do was flipthe washer on its side and remove the old hose...a couple screws and install the new one...it was a perfect match so ...no issue.

Using the guidance listed on your website for part #PS3408149, Water Level Pressure Switch, I removed two screws on each side of the rear Control Panel, removed the dial from the front, lifted the panel on the right side from rear, removed the hose and the electrical plug, twisted off the broken part and installed the new one in absolute reverse! Reassembled panel, plugged in unit to electric and performed function check to great satisfaction! (by doing one med load and one super load over next 2 hours)

Although this was listed as 'a bit difficult' and talking a bit longer than normal, this was because the agitator cap had leaked, and over time the agitator bolt had become completely rusted such that a socket simply couldn't fit. Due to the tight confines, I also could not get a needle-nose vise-grip to hold on to the nut, so attempted to drill out the bolt. This ended up being a problem, but it turns out that drilling AROUND the edge of the bolt and through the edge of the plastic allowed me to remove the top of the agitator, which then allowed a normal pair of vise-grips to be used to remove the bolt. Once the bolt is removed, everything simply fell into place, and the overall job 'should' have only taken a couple of minutes and been 'really easy', except for that rusted-out bolt.