F31C546CS1 Frigidaire Dryer - Instructions

took off face of dryer, removed drum 4 screws removed two srews holding bearing and shaft ,replaced shaft bearing and shaft . Just for preventive maintenance i replaced idleling arm and dryer belt. I lined everything up replaced drum used shop vac to clean lint and dust from all parts replaced face of dryer and boom i got a btand new dryer

lacked instructions. Internet yielded a simple paragraph. Scored real bonus when we discovered the lint build up past the internal filter was approaching catastropic level. Replaced the exhaust tube (plastic) with rigid metal and resolved to disassemble and clean dryer on 2 year cycle in future. Kit just isn't complete without detailed instructions. Parts were complete and sufficient. Local codes have eliminated the plactic exhaust tube. Recommend that all old installs refit to rigid or semirigid before the fire happens!

First removed the top of the dryer, then the front of the dryer. Took the plate off the back left of the dryer to disengage the belt off the pulley.
Took the three screws out that hold the drum in place, of course the third screw stripped and had to use a screw remover, which didn't work, but the adjustable pliers did so then lifted the drum out of the plastic reservoir in which the bearing laid. Next unscrewed the two bolts holding the plastic reservoir which also loosened the small metal piece on the back of the dryer where a small bearing is located. Put the new parts in, but instead of putting the larger bearing that fits in the plastic reservoir, I decided to put it on the drum first and guide it into the reservoir all at once, this worked well . Prior to that I put the new plastic piece on the inside and taped it there while holding that piece put the small metal piece with the small bearing on the back of the dryer. I'm sure it is alot easier with two people doing this part, but it worked and I didn't lose the small bearing. Next put the front of the dryer back on and then put the belt back on the pulley, then the top.
It definitely helped immensely to read how someone did this, just follow the instructions given and there you go, no more annoying squeak and also a feeling of accomplishment and thanks to the person who wrote the story on how to do this job, appreciate it.

I watched the video you had. Did what the man said, checked out the parts, and orded the new ones. Then installed , as per video. It was Fun.

I removed the cracked knob and attempted to replace with the new knob. Unfortunately my new knob did not fit. The internal diameter of the replacement knob was 2mm too small. I did not want to go through the hassle of returning and requesting another knob. So I just made it work. Thanks

there are several srcews to remove. there are some u dont have to take out but it looks like u do.ease of the front panel and remove the old drum glide,very hard to get of all the felt.check the the bottom guide before u order parts if possible(i could've replaced mine,but didnt have time to check it first).when glue back in place follow directions exact and clamp.allow glue to dry as long as u can. mine set overnight it was nice and dry(if u dont you'll be doing it all over again)replace everything as you took them off.all works great perfect fit!!

As all others have said, without being redundant, I'd view post #1 or #2 for a good detailed set of instructions.

The primary issue I had was with the stainless steel ball bearing that was shipped with the kit. I couldn't figure out what it was used for, because when I removed the bearing carrier the ball fell out before I could see where the original one was located. The stainless ball bearing is a grounding ball, not a bearing. It goes on the exterior of the plastic bearing carrier/receiver.

Once I figured that part out, it was a piece of cake.

Took a little longer than other people's repairs, but I also put a new belt on and re-worked the exhaust duct for solid ducting versus flexible duct. fine-tuning the rigid duct work was a piece of cake with the tumbler out, since i could crawl right inside the chassis and make sure everything would line up (level legs, adjust elbows, etc)

First, I popped the two clips that hold on the top. Then, I removed two screws and unplugged a few wire connectors to remove the front panel. I scraped off the felt, which was rubbing the drum since the white plastic glides had worn completely through. I applied the high-temp adhesive liberally, laid on the new felt, and applied some spring clamps to hold it in place. I removed the small back panel to replace the belt, which was really easy with the dryer apart. The 7-year-old original belt was a little cracked.

First of all, I LOVE Partselect.com.. The parts are reasonable, and arrive in a timely fashion.. The repair stories are far and away, one of the BEST features of this website - so hats off to the DIY'ers who have helped me overcome my challenges and helped me stay in the ..ahem.. "favorable" graces of my wife.. I need all the help I can get there.. Anyway, read the other repair stories first - LOTS of great insight.. I only have a couple pointers to add - below...

This is easily my 4th appliance repair project with Partselect.com, and I can say without a doubt that the experience has been positive every single time.. Until now.. I got the dryer torn down and realized that I SHOULD have ordered the SEAL-BASKET LOWER felt with my original order. When I inspected it for my list of parts to order, the upper glide was thrashed - no brainer.. I thought the lower felt was fine.. d'oh! I discovered this morning that I was wrong.. So, I JUST ordered the lower basket seal for *next* weekend.. (If you are gonna replace the original upper glide, replace the lower basket seal as well..) It'll be a slam dunk, though..

Now, for a couple useful tips:

If you are a car guy, get out your trusty can of brake parts cleaner to help clean off the old adhesive residue after you rip off the old upper glide felt. I also used a 1" plastic scraper to help facilitate removal, but the brake parts cleaner was a Godsend. I think I read someone else's suggestion to use "goof off" or whatever - but I couldn't find mine, so..... ...out came the brake cleaner... :) two thumbs up. Just use it sparingly - all those solvents are bad for children in California for some odd reason..

Spring loaded clamps to hold the felt down as the glue dries are also "nice to have". I used one on each end of the felt, and one for each of the teflon / plastic glides..

Finally - milk this job for all it's worth - it'll only take you 45-60 minutes or so... good luck...!!!

Removed rear cover, unplug 2 spade connectors, twist out old switch, twistin new switch. plug connectors, install cover

Sooooo Easy. A no brainer. Just line up the knob and push it back on!

Pushed the new timer knob on the dryer. No tools were necessary.

I unpluged the dryer, raised the top cover up, removed 2 two screws & pulled front cover out. Removed the old seal, cleaned the area & installed the new seal. Reinstalled as new. Very, very easy.

/removed the lint screen & tossed in the trash, removed one screw from each side of the frame with a screw driver. Placed the New frame in place
& secured it with the screws that I removed from the old frame, placed the screen in place & that was all there was to it. The total amount of time to remove the old & replace with the new probably took 10-15 min. @ the most. I am so happy to have found the part & was able to replace it. You all are wonderful. Received it in 3 days, WOW!!

Opened the plastic bag, took out the new knob, slid it on and DONE I'm not using pliers anymore!!