This 18 ml bottle of white appliance touch-up paint is used to cover scratches or marks on your appliance. The white touch-up paint can be used on refrigerators, microwaves, ranges, clothes dryers, an...
$10.20
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This part is essential in your dishes getting clean during the wash cycle. If there is any debris or a tear in the filter, it can cause extra buildup and, therefore, causing dirty dishes.
$173.94
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The docking station is located on the water supply tube at the far back. It provides water to the upper and middle spray arm and also includes the flappers.
This hose clamp extends from half an inch to an inch in diameter. It is made entirely of metal and is intended for use with Maytag brand washing machines.
$11.68
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This is the replacement water valve for your dishwasher. The water inlet valve connects to the water source and solenoid wires, and ensures the tub has the right amount of water entering it. If your d...
$129.99
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Most of the time was spent pulling out the dishwasher from under the counter, as a new tile floor had been installed after the DW was installed.
Great pictures of components on this website confirmed what part to order.
Shut off water feed to DW and disconnect power to DW.
Unplug wire connector to old valve (solenoid) and disconnect water inlet hose. Observe that valve is attached to sheet metal bracket.
Remove bracket, with valve attached. Don't remove valve from bracket. New valve comes with sheet metal bracket.
Remove female threaded adaptor (brass) from back of old valve and screw on to new valve using Teflon tape. That is the only piece you need to reuse.
Attached the new bracket (with valve attached) to DW. Attach water inlet hose. Attach plug to new valve.
Turn on water to DW. Check for leaks. Retighten hose connection if required. Run dishwasher. Keep lower panel off for a couple of days to be certain no leaks develop.
I ordered and replaced both the door gasket (easy) and inner door seal (difficult) to try and correct a leak during operation. The door gasket was easily replaced. However, the inner door seal was a bit more trouble. After removing the inner door I found that the old inner seal needed to be removed and surfaces thoroughly cleaned of old build-up of dishwasher soap residue, in order to allow the sticky back tape side of door seal to properly stick to the door. There also was a plastic cover over the wire bundle that needed to be cleaned. The inner door seal was the exact length, so proper positioning of the sticky back was very important. Upon reassemly the leak still existed and I was unable to correct the leak. Further inspection indicated that the basic tub/body of the dishwasher might be slightly distorted due to age and may not create seal with door seal as originally designed. I guess I need to find a new dishwasher, at this point. A word to the wise: Check to see if the tub/body is still in good condition.
Remove the racks top and bottom. The Station D seals are at the far back on the tube that supplies water to the top and middle spray heads. Unsnap the old one and snap in the new - it only goes one way! This will repair the seal aroound the tube that supplies the middle sprayer and restore pressure to all 3 heads. Repalcing the screen accumulator is harder. you need a torx driver. remove the little thumb nut on the bottom sprayer and remove the sprayer. Then remove the tube where you just replaced the D station. (You of course could have done this earlier if you were doing both repairs) then 6 screws on the impeller housing. Now remove the 1 torx screw on the impeller and pull the impeller up and off. Remove the 3 screws on the cover and 2 screws on the accumulator. Clean all the old food scraps that are clogging up the works and reassemble in reverse order. Washer is working again!!
