Models > 91199004991

91199004991 Kenmore Range - Overview

Sections of the 91199004991

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Temperature Sensor Kit – Part Number: WB23X5340
Temperature Sensor Kit
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(19)
PartSelect #: PS236490
Manufacturer #: WB23X5340
This kit includes the sensor as well as the connectors. NOTE This sensor is 2" long.
$68.68
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Convection Element – Part Number: WB44T10053
Convection Element
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(5)
PartSelect #: PS956151
Manufacturer #: WB44T10053
$98.41
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Foot - Leveller – Part Number: WB02X10521
Foot - Leveller
PartSelect #: PS223802
Manufacturer #: WB02X10521
Sold individually.
$26.04
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Infinite Control Switch – Part Number: WB24T10119
Infinite Control Switch
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(1)
PartSelect #: PS1016429
Manufacturer #: WB24T10119
$175.82
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Dual Radiant Element - 9 Inch – Part Number: WB30T10099
Dual Radiant Element - 9 Inch
PartSelect #: PS1016539
Manufacturer #: WB30T10099
This is a large dual haliant element with a limiter or sensor for glass cooktops and freestanding ranges. It is a 2500-watt part. The inner diameter measures 9 inches, while the outer diameter measure...
$201.60
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Halogen Lamp - 35 Watt – Part Number: WB08T10023
Halogen Lamp - 35 Watt
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(5)
PartSelect #: PS230456
Manufacturer #: WB08T10023
This halogen lamp bulb is a genuine OEM replacement part for your oven. If the light has burned out in your oven, replace it with this part. This is a 35 watt bulb. Replacing this bulb is fairly easy ...
$50.77
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Front Drawer Support – Part Number: WB48T10013
Front Drawer Support
PartSelect #: PS249583
Manufacturer #: WB48T10013
$10.28
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Screw – Part Number: WB1K5157
Screw
PartSelect #: PS234226
Manufacturer #: WB1K5157
This screw is black in color and sold individually.
$11.18
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Bottom Drawer Guide – Part Number: WB48T10068
Bottom Drawer Guide
PartSelect #: PS2374182
Manufacturer #: WB48T10068
$17.48
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Range Oven Door Gasket – Part Number: WB04T10086
Range Oven Door Gasket
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(1)
PartSelect #: PS8753695
Manufacturer #: WB04T10086
The oven door gasket creates a seal between the oven door and the opening of the oven to prevent heat from escaping when the oven is closed.
$76.70
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SWITCH SPDT HIGH AMP – Part Number: WB24T10147
SWITCH SPDT HIGH AMP
PartSelect #: PS1765837
Manufacturer #: WB24T10147
This light switch is controlled by opening and closing the oven door
$39.95
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NUT – Part Number: WB02T10017
NUT
PartSelect #: PS223451
Manufacturer #: WB02T10017
$12.34
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Questions And Answers for 91199004991

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Common Symptoms of the 91199004991

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Element will not heat
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Little to no heat when baking
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Oven not heating evenly
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Oven is too hot
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Door won’t close
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Large burner on dual element burned out
This was really easy, and pretty with no problems or issues It took me longer to write this than to do the actual installation. I used a digital camera to help me remember where things were, but a pen/paper works fine. Here's what I did:

1. Turn off the breaker for the cooktop.

2. Remove (2) 1/4" hex screws directly under cooktop. You may need to open oven door to reveal them.

2. Prop up cooktop. I used the box the replacement element came in.

3. The element is held in place with (3) brackets held in by a #2 philips screw each. Mark the location of each of the brackets. There are numbers on the element to help you do this.

4. Write down where each of the wires connects to the element. There's only a few of them, but I tend to forget that stuff. The wires have female spade-type connectors that connect to the male ends on the element.

5. Using a needle-nose or small pliers wiggle each wire off the element. Grab the wires by the end of the female connector when you do this. I found it helpful to use a small flat screwdriver to help pry them off. Mine were on pretty tight, so expect this to take a few mins. If you have problems getting to the wires, remove the brackets (next step) first and come back to this one. I let the element hang from the wires without any problems, but I still wouldn't recommend it.

6. Remove each of the screws with a #2 philips screwdriver. Support the element with your hand and gently pull each bracket away from the element. Once they're all gone, the element should just come out. I took a look at my old element and saw that the large burner wires were melted in a couple places, so it was definitely broken.

7. If necessary, clean the underside of the cooktop surface with a clean papertowel. There was a little dust from the old element on mine.

8. Connect the new element and test to make sure it works by turning on the breaker and turning on the burner for a second or two. Note: This will make the top of the element hot for some time, so test it and go away for a few mins. If it works OK, proceed. If not, disconnect and figure out what else may be wrong.

9. Using the old element, make copies of the marks you made for the bracket locations onto the new element. You'll have to punch through the insulation when re-attaching the screws.

10. Re-wire the new element, if necessary and re-attach the brackets over the marks you made. This may be a pretty tight fit because the new element was thicker than the old on mine. I opened up the brackets a bit to make it not so hard to re-attach. Hook the brackets on and squeeze them over the element. The holes in the brackets need to line up with the holes drilled into the bottom of the element. If they don't, spin the element around (or detach and re-attach the brackets) till they do.

11. Screw in the (3) screws over the brackets pushing them through the insulation on the element.

12. Close the cooktop and reattach the hex screws under it (1/4" hex).

13. Turn on the breaker and test again.

Thats it, works great now. Good Luck
Parts Used:
Dual Radiant Element - 9 Inch
  • Scot from Oakland, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
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Inner glass window of oven cracked
1. Removed the oven door -- this is a little tricky -- you need to lift to small metal covers on the hinges, then pull the door up and out from the broil (half open position). Replace the door the same way. It is important to insert the hinges with the door in the "broil" position, and after verifying that the door is aligned and closes normally -- then lift hinge covers to lock in place.

2. After door is removed the glass assembly can be removed and replaced by unscrewing two long (2-3 inch long) screws at the top. And three hex head screws at the bottom of the door. Note -- there is no need to removed the six screws (3 either side) on th ebottom of the door -- because these only hold the hinges to the door. The other 5 screws that you do need to remove actually hold the two halves of the door together.

3. Replace glass assembly and reassemble.

It is not so hard but you need "star" screwdrivers for the long screws... (not philips -- but 6-pointed stars), and a socket wrench is useful for the bottom 3 hex head screws...

If I were to do again it would only take me 15 minutes.... but I messed up by removing the hinges unnecessarily so it took me an hour.
Parts Used:
Inner Door Window Kit
  • Charles from Sharon, MA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
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Coil Burned Out
Open lid,un screw coil,pop in new coil snap holders in place,then cook a steak
Parts Used:
Haliant Burner with Limiter - 6" - 1500W
  • Frank from St Augustine, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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