This drum support roller is sold individually. Most dryers require two. The tri-rings are included. This is a drum support roller for a dryer. It is a genuine replacement part. The part includes the d...
If you notice that your dryer is noisy or will not tumble, you may need to replace the tri ring. This part is triangular, and is less than an inch in size. Tri rings can be found both on the idler pul...
This 18 ml bottle of white appliance touch-up paint is used to cover scratches or marks on your appliance. The white touch-up paint can be used on refrigerators, microwaves, ranges, clothes dryers, an...
This manufacturer-certified dryer lint filter is used to collect lint during the dryer cycle, to prevent damage to the machine and to prevent lint from sticking to clothes. This model comes in white a...
The blower wheel is a squirrel cage type wheel whose purpose is to move the air through the room or appliance. The blower wheel spins on the motor shaft to blow air through the dryer drum and out through the exhaust.
This part senses the flame for heat allowing the gas valve to open.This flame sensor is three inches long and is used for many gas clothes dryers.This flame sensor assembly is made of both plastic and metal.
This silicone carbide igniter with ceramic holder kit includes the 3" flat igniter, bracket, 4" wire leads, and the plug. It can replace both round and flat igniters. This kit is used for many gas clothes dryers.
$51.69
In Stock
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Pryed dryer top open and opened front door. . Unscrewed the 2 retaining screws. Pulled old switch from the wiring harness. Put new switch in place and replaced the retaining screws. Put new switch wire plug into the wiring harness. Before closing top, checked door switch function with dryer on. Dryer cut off when door open and when closed dryer started normally. . . Maint. Note instruction book should warn that letting door slam, which I did on occaision, broke the switch arm. Might save future problems.
It was simple once I figured out what to do:). I removed the 2 screws on the top of the dryer... they were a bit hard to find. Even with the other descriptions on this site. I was removing things I didn't need to. The 2 screws you need to remove are under the LINT COLLECTOR LID. Remove those 2 screws & lift the lid... it will be tight at first. the front of the lid has 2 "catches" in the corners.
The hardest part was getting the door switch assembly to "unplug". We pried it off -- eventually -- & then simply plugged in the new one.
Saved me LOTS of money & was worth the 30 minutes - 1 hour of work.
As I said previously, once you realize how to get the lid up & manage to pry off the plug, that's all there is to it -- easy!
