This 18 ml bottle of white appliance touch-up paint is used to cover scratches or marks on your appliance. The white touch-up paint can be used on refrigerators, microwaves, ranges, clothes dryers, an...
This temperature sensor detects the temperature within the oven cavity. This oven temperature sensor, for ranges, works together with the oven control board to measure and regulate the oven temperatur...
This is a multi-use and multi-appliance screw. It can be used on a microwave, refrigerator, range/oven, air conditioner, dehumidifier, washer, or dryer. The measurements of this screw are 8 x 1/2 inch...
The light socket on your electric range connects the power source to the light bulb. If your oven light is malfunctioning, you may need to replace the light socket. The light socket is located in the ...
Sold individually. Lock washers are used with screws when vibration from an appliance may cause the screw to loosen. Lock washers are also used in the electrical components of an appliance to ensure ...
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My oven was misdiagnosed from an appliance repair company. They said my ignitors and spark module needed to be replaced. I did this myself and still nothing. The problem happened to be a defective gas valve.
First I unplugged the stove and shut off the gas supply. After I disconnected the flex hose and the 2 gas connections behind the stove, I removed the 4 screws that held the valve to the back of the stove.
I went to the front of the appliance and pulled out the bottom drawer. This exposed the valve from the other side. I disconnected the electrical connections (3 colored wires) to the valve and removed it. I re-attached the new valve, putting everything back in reverse order. I made sure the 3 wires were reconnected correctly by labeling each one before disconnecting them. I made certain that my gas connections were sealed by using teflon tape and/or pipe sealant from the hardware store. I turned the shutoff valve back to the on position and checked for leaks. If I smelled gas I snugged it down a bit more until no gas smell was detected.
There was nothing wrong with the ignitors or the spark module. The stove failed to pre-heat and the "tick-tick" I used to hear when the stove was first turned on was nonexistent. What the so-called experts said would be hundreds of dollars to fix unded up being a $90 part.
Opened up the back of the stove. Unpluged the sensor. Replaced the sensor. Replace the back of the stove.
The sensor that has been replaced is not what is expected. After reading all of the instructions for adjusting the temperatures, the only temp that stays steady is when we first turn on the oven to 350 degrees. That stays steady but when I turn it to 400 it slowly goes up to 425 degrees.
I numbered every part. ex: 1 L., for first part removed left side. I used a magic marker to circle the holes and wrote the number of screws used on the part, set the srews in a separete place, so that I new where these screws went to. The cleanup was pretty time consuming, but I was able to keep my stove, when every repairman I called to fix my stove told me I was better off buying a new stove. ($600.00 stove 2 years old)Please Note: The insulation blanket needed for the entire stove is two pieces, the sides and top are one part # and the bottom and back, are another part #. I did not know this. I just purchased the top and sides. I got lucky, the back and bottom were still in good shape. So I guess I should have read the description of the part more carefully to see what it covers, before I ordered it. It took two people two hours to do the work, it was really nice to have an extra set of eyes, to remember what direction pieces of metal from the stove went. I would do it all over in a heart beat instead of buying a new stove.
