This rear drum bearing kit comes with a shaft, bearing and installation instructions. The bearing plate comes with a slot in it for the ground strap. Helps keep your dryer running as smoothly as poss...
The adjustable leveling screws on the bottom of your dryer can be screwed in or out to lower or raise the leg level. If one of the leveling screws is stripped, damaged, or missing, you may not be able...
The lint filter and frame for your dryer traps unwanted lint and debris so your dryer can effectively dry your clothes. If the old lint filter is cracked or clogged, or the dryer takes too long to dry...
first had to troubleshoot... used multimeter to check all switches, they were good.
then checked thermostats, good again.
then checked motor centrifugal switch.. good.
with multimeter i found continuity between heating coil leads and heater housing. coil had broken and welded itself to housing.
changed coil in short time with restring kit (which got here amazingly fast) and everything is great.
ps: PartsSelect got me the part super fast and it was what i needed. also at a great price. would order from them again.
added note: if i were to do this again i would order the porcelain insulators that insulate the leads to the coils, they were old and very fragile and i experienced some fragmentation.
First, I loosened the the top control panel and then loosened the top flat roof panel which allowed me access to the inside of the dryer. Then, I removed the front panel which allowed access to the drum. I was amazed at the amount of lint that was inside the dryer itself. Most of my time was spent in the disassembly and cleaning of the internal cavity around the drum. I reached below the drum and removed the belt from the pulley wheels and then unscrewed the drum (from the inside) from the back of the dryer and bearing kit. I removed the diffuser and cleaned it thoroughly. Then I replaced the entire drum bearing kit - the old one was almost completely dissentigrated. I probably should have applied some kind of non-flammable lubricant to the new bearing kit - the instructions did not include this step but after about 3 loads a slight squeak (different). I put everything back together - applying the new drum kit will require 2 sets of hands (my 9-year old daughter did great at this). I re-assembled the dryer and it works great, again except for the slight squeak that's still there. I may disassemble it again and apply some lubricant but I do not know what kind to get; I need to check that out.
Remove the two screws holding the top down. Disconnect two wires from door switch. Remove the two hex screws holding the front on. Remove the 4 screws holding the access panel on the back and disengage idler pulley to loosen the belt. Remove the drum. Label the wires then remove the heating element. Check orientation of ground strap before disassembling rear bearing. Remove four screws holding rear bearing to back of heating element. Install rear bearing and ground strap on to heating element. Reinstall heating element. Reconnect wires.
Most Important : Get help putting parts back on drum! I didn't and that's why it took over 2 hours. I will describe how I did it.
Unscrew bearing from inside of drum. Wrap screwdriver with tape to a little larger than the screw hole. Use small screwdriver to line up the drum, shim and deflector. Don't forget the brass shim. It wasn't on the parts diagram. Start two screws don't tighten them yet. Remove Screwdriver and start third screw. Tighten all three down. Put belt on drum. Install drum and belt. Reverse disassembly. When putting the front on make sure drum rests in the felt.
I rated this a bit difficult because I did it myself. With help this is a fairly easy repair.
