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REPAIR > WASHER > NO HOT OR COLD WATER

How to Fix A Washer That Has No Hot or Cold Water

How to Fix A Washer That Has No Hot or Cold Water

by Steve Ash

A broken washer means disaster in most homes which is why we’ve created this repair guide to help you fix a washer that has no hot or cold water. While a washing machine repair may seem discouraging, millions of our customers have told us it’s actually pretty easy! To get you started, we’ve made a list of the most common parts that cause no hot or cold water for a washer. You can use this list to help you figure out what part needs to be replaced and then you can enter your model number into the search to locate the part schematics and more.
Inlet Hoses & Screens
Washing machines are connected to the household water supply by fill hoses. These hoses are typically 4-5 feet in length and often will have a plastic or wire mesh screen inserted into the end of the hose that attaches to the faucet. The screen prevents sediment from entering the water inlet valve, which is located on the back of your If your washer is not filling with either hot or cold water then you should first verify that the faucets are turned on and that the inlet hoses are not kinked. Next, you should turn off the faucets and remove the fill hoses from the inlet valve. Inspect the screens that are part of the inlet valve and clean or replace. Place the hose ends into the tub or a bucket and turn on the faucet to verify that you have adequate pressure. If not, then remove the hose from the faucet and inspect the screens for dirt accumulation or damage and clean or replace as necessary. If your washer still does take water then you should next look at the water inlet valve located on the back of the machine.
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- 30 – 60 minutes

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Water Inlet Valve
The Water Inlet Valve on your washing machine supplies hot and cold water for the wash and rinse. The valve will have two solenoids that operate inlets for both the hot and cold water supply. The timer or electronic control, water temperature cycle selector and the water level pressure switch control the valve. The valve is controlled by the timer or electronic control, the water temperature/cycle selector switch and the water level/pressure switch. If your washer is not filling with either hot or cold water and you have water pressure to the inlet valve, you should next verify that you have power to the solenoid on the valve during the fill portion of the cycle. This can be checked with a multi-meter or a voltage tester. This is a live voltage test and should only be performed by a qualified person. If power is available at the solenoid terminals, then the valve is defective and will need to be replaced. If there is no power at the terminals, then you will need to check the other components in the water inlet valve circuit. If you cannot check for voltage at the valve, you can check the solenoids for continuity with a multi-meter. A solenoid that has no continuity is defective and normally is not available separately so you will need to replace the complete valve. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test.
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- 15 – 30 minutes

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Lid Switch
The lid switch on a top load washing machine is a safety device designed to prevent the motor circuit from operating when the lid is open. On some models, the water inlet valve circuit is also controlled . If the lid switch fails on these models, power cannot be supplied to the water inlet valve. If you have determined that the water inlet valve on your washer is not receiving power then you should check the lid switch. The lid switch is normally located beneath the main top with a projection on the lid or a pin attached to the lid that will actuate the switch when the lid is closed. Verify that the switch is activated mechanically and that any levers or actuators are not damaged or sticking. If the switch is activated but there is no power being supplied to the inlet valve circuit then the switch may be defective. Disconnect power from the appliance and remove the wires from the switch. You can then check the switch for continuity with a multi-meter. We strongly recommend that you DO NOT bypass a lid switch as it is an important safety feature and serious injury could result.
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Selector Switch Or Water Temperature Switch
The selector switch or water temperature switch selects the water temperature for the wash and/or rinse portions of the cycle. The switch provides a circuit to supply power to the correct solenoids on the water inlet valve. If you do not have power at the solenoids on the water inlet valve, then the temperature elector switch may be at fault. The switch can be tested for continuity with a multi-meter although you may need to consult the wiring diagram to determine which terminals to check. Power will need to be removed from the appliance before attempting this repair.
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Water Level Pressure Switch
The water level switch is a pressure activated switch that is part of the water inlet valve circuit. This part is normally located behind the control panel and will have a hose or air dome tube that connects it to the tub. On washers that use an electronic control, this switch may be located at the sump area below the tub. If the switch is defective, it may not supply power to the water inlet valve. You can check the pressure switch for continuity with a multi-meter. You may need the wiring diagram for the washer to determine which terminals to check on the switch. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test.
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Timer Or Electronic Control
The timer or electronic control is used to determine when the water inlet valve receives power. The mechanical timer will have a series of electrical contacts that are operated by a small motor and cams. During the wash, fill and rinse fill portions of the cycle these contacts will supply power to the water inlet valve circuit. You can check the timer contacts for continuity with a multi-meter but you will require the electrical schematic to determine the correct terminals to test. Remove power from the appliance before attempting this test. On models that use an electronic control, you will need to determine which wires supply voltage to the fill circuit using the electrical schematic, and then check for voltage during the fill portion of the cycle. This is a live voltage test and should only be performed by a qualified person.
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- Customers rate this repair as Really Easy

- 15 – 30 minutes

We have 137 installation instructions

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