This 18 ml bottle of white appliance touch-up paint is used to cover scratches or marks on your appliance. The white touch-up paint can be used on refrigerators, microwaves, ranges, clothes dryers, an...
This kit includes one driver hub and two driven basket hubs. The basket hub is located under the agitator. If your washer is not agitating or spinning properly, the hubs will need to be replaced.
This part makes sure that the lid is shut before allowing the machine to start or agitate.
NOTE: This is a manufacturer substitution. Part may differ in appearance but is a functional equivalent to prior parts including
This rotary position sensor is a genuine OEM part for your washing machine. It helps to ensure the load of clothing stays balanced during the wash cycle. Customers have rated this repair as easy. To c...
This hose clamp extends from half an inch to an inch in diameter. It is made entirely of metal and is intended for use with Maytag brand washing machines.
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Miriam
December 16, 2022
The ol load error code keeps coming on even after I have took clothes out and adjusted the other clothes
For model number WTW6800WW1
Hello Miriam, thank you for your question! This error flashes when the machine or motor control detects a load size that exceeds the washer’s capacity or the basket cannot disengage. This may indicate mechanical friction on the drive mechanism, not allowing the basket to disengage, or that the load size exceeds the washer's capacity. Remove excess laundry, then restart the cycle. If you keep getting the OL code and it is not overloaded with a large load of clothes, then it could be a faulty board or some kind of friction on the drive system. Spin the tub by hand and see if it spins freely, if it does not, then lean the washer back and check under it to make sure there is nothing under there that is blocking the unit that has it in a bind. If that is the case, the shaft has most likely become corroded and has soap scum built up on it, so to fix it, you must pull the tub and clean them both very well, then check to see if the basket can easily go back on the shaft and slide up and down without getting stuck. You may need to sand and file the shaft a little bit to get it totally cleaned up. The inner bearing of the basket is plastic, so it is pretty easy to clean with light sanding. Lubricate the shaft and the basket. Afterward, put it back and attach it in the reverse order. Now, if for some reason you do not find corrosion or the issue is not fixed, you need to check and replace the suspension rods, part number PS2355518, and basket hub kit, part number PS11723155. Please reach out to customer service if you need help placing an order. Glad to be of help!
Disconnect power, hot/cold supply and drain hose. Tip washer onto front side, expect some additional water to leak out. Remove the cracked drain pump, 3 screws, hose clamps, and electrical plug.
Tip washer back up, use the putty knife to pop the top cover up (clips are about 6.5in in from sides). Unclip the white plastic cover over the outer and inner tubs. Pop the center cap from inside the inner tub, exposing the bolt holding the inner tub down. Remove bolt, pull inner tub up and out.
At bottom of outer tub remove 2 screws from drain access cover, should find some change under there (or in the pump).
Re-assemble using new pump.
Note: Before new pump arrived I was able to use some silicone sealant, epoxy, and black tape to temporarily fix the cracked pump housing after pulling it out.
The actual install of the pump was extremely easy. I removed the back cover, (After unhooking water, drain and electricity. I laid the machine on its front ( USE CAUTION WHEN DOING THIS, THERE ARE SHARP EDGES on the FRAME) After bandaging my cut fingers, I used a nut-driver/screwdriver to remove the screws, pliers to remove the Spring clamps, unhooked the wiring( its a single plug in) and reverse the procedure for installing.
I saw where a person had put the screws in the filter below the tub. I had to find the clips on the front of the machine, (about 7 in in from the sides) I removed the nut cover on the agitator, used a socket to remove the agitator, tub, and a nut driver to remove the filter. I found 3 areas where coins could get through the drain filter, and I used self tapping screws to make an obstruction that water could get through but not the coins. I reinstalled tub. Before re installing the agitator, I got some fiber glass window screening and cut a piece to go over the drain slots in the bottom of the tub but under the agitator, then reinstalled the agitator.
I noticed that the new pump had more re enforcing at the areas where the 1st pump broke. I doubt that it will break, but I am not taking any chances. I put the screen in to prevent the coins from getting to the drain filer 1st and the back up was the screws in the drain filter.
Removed a cap in the center of the tub basket which has a bolt that needs removed I believe it's a 9/16 after I removed the bolt I then removed the center of the bottom of the basket assembly which then allowed me to get to the basket hub that needed replaced it was a little dirty and I couldn't get it out so I sprayed a little penitrating oil on it let it sit a little then I was able to remove the hub and install the new one then I put it all back together and the washer is working great