These agitator directional cogs are commonly referred to as dog ears. They come four to a package and are usually used with direct drive washing machines.
$5.60
In Stock
Order within the next 10 hrs and your part ships today!
This coupling kit is located between the motor and the transmission on direct drive washers with no belt. This is the newer version and is made with new metal sleeves for added strength.
$35.54
In Stock
Order within the next 10 hrs and your part ships today!
This Idler Pulley includes the tri-ring and gasket and everything included here is manufacturer-certified. This part maintains correct tension on the drive belt in order to spin the drum properly. If ...
$34.36
In Stock
Order within the next 10 hrs and your part ships today!
The suspension spring supports the outer tub and keeps the tub steady during loads that could cause an unbalance. If this part breaks, is worn down or has stretched out and lost its spring, it could c...
$9.68
In Stock
Order within the next 10 hrs and your part ships today!
This drum support roller is sold individually. Most dryers require two. The tri-rings are included. This is a drum support roller for a dryer. It is a genuine replacement part. The part includes the d...
$28.93
In Stock
Order within the next 10 hrs and your part ships today!
A worn clutch can cause a slower spin speed which will leave your clothes wet after a cycle. This clutch assembly comes with brake cam driver, blue spring for large capacity washers and black spring f...
$39.16
In Stock
Order within the next 10 hrs and your part ships today!
The Drive Belt is a 93 1/2" belt which wraps around the dryer drum to allow tension and movement. If broken the dryer will not turn properly, or there may be loud noises. The part is rated as "medium"...
$27.99
In Stock
Order within the next 10 hrs and your part ships today!
If you notice that your dryer is noisy or will not tumble, you may need to replace the tri ring. This part is triangular, and is less than an inch in size. Tri rings can be found both on the idler pul...
$17.11
In Stock
Order within the next 10 hrs and your part ships today!
This kit contains one screw with rubber gasket and threaded sealant. The screw head is 7/16".
$8.98
In Stock
Order within the next 10 hrs and your part ships today!
Questions And Answers for WET3300SQ1
Ask our experts a question about this model and we'll get back to you as soon as possible!
4 questions answered by our experts.
< Prev
1
Next >
Sort by:
Search filter:
Clear Filter
Your search term must have 3 or more characters.
Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Sorry, we couldn't find any existing answers that matched.Try using some different or simpler keywords, or submit your new question by using the "Ask a Question" button above!
Ward
March 10, 2022
Replaced water intake valve....but washer is still surging when filling with cold water and cannot get hot water or warm most of the time...it surges in and out when first starting to fill then gradually fills normally..... seems to fill more normally on rinse cycle
For model number WET3300SQ1
Hi Ward,
Thank you for your question. If water is surging into the washer when you start it, check the water pressure in your home. If you are not getting hot or warm water and you have replaced the water inlet valve, there are some other parts that you will need to check to see which one is causing the issue. You will also need to check the inlet hoses, the lid switch, the temperature control switch, the water level switch and the timer. Also, make sure that the hot water has been turned on all the way before using the washer. We have included a link that you may reference on how to check these parts. Once you have determined the part you need, please feel free to call customer service. We are open 7 days a week and anyone will be happy to assist you. We look forward to hearing from you!
I have a whirlpool model listed above and as of today when I started washing clothes my washing machine would stop at rinsing cycle. The water filled and drained so I advanced to the spin cycle and ended my washing. Please help
Thank you
For model number WET3300SQ1
Hi Alton, thank you for asking. You may need to check the following parts to fix the issue: timer, part number PS11748397, and timer power resistor, part number PS334337. Glad to be of assistance!
I believe I crossed the threads attaching the hose to the warm water threaded incoming connector, it leaks no matter how hard I tighten it. What is that part number for that piece? I likely will also need someone in the 10012 area to do that replacement. Do you maintain a list of service professionals in the nyc area?
For model number WET3300SQ1
Hello Phillip, Thank you for contacting us. I have researched the model you have provided and have found the part you are looking for is PartSelect Number: PS11742193 for the Inlet Water Valve that the hoses connect to. Very sorry but we do not have a repair service or a list of repair services. For more specialized assistance or to speak with someone about this, I would suggest calling the manufacturer of the appliance directly. We hope this helps.
My dryer stops drying after first cycle , at the second set of clothes we have to start or use dryer up to 3 cycles to semi dry and into the third use say 3 towels only it doesn’t work we use it over & over and towels stay wet . My handyman enjoys coming to fix it because he charges me whether it works or not . His changed the sensors twice “new” sensors could it be it’s a cheap Chinese imported sensor . Why isn't my dryer working or heating at full cycle ?? by the way i live alone have few washing & drying once a week maybe a full basket of clothing, that’s all thank you
For model number WET3300SQ1
Hello Rick, thank you for your inquiry. Here are the top reasons your dryer isn't drying properly:
1. The dryer lint screen (lint trap) has not been cleaned (poor or restricted airflow).
2. A clogged or kinked (bent) dryer air vent hose (inadequate or no airflow).
3. Drum has stopped turning, broken drum drive belt.
4. Overheated or bad motor (possible thermal overload).
5. Thermal fuse or thermostat (could be caused from dryer air vent hose lint buildup)
6. Heating element burnt out.
7. Loose electrical plug or power socket.
Unfortunately with not a lot of information provided, we can not properly diagnose your dryer. We hope what information that we provided does help. Thank you.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
< Prev
1
Next >
✖
Ask a Question
Ask our experts a question on this model and we'll respond as soon as we can.
The job looked intimidating but turned out to be very easy. First take off the water pump by removing the two clips that hold it in place. Place a shallow pan under the pump to catch the water that is in the pump and hoses. Open the hose clamps with a pair of pliers or channel locks (better) and slide the hoses off of the water pump. The motor comes off next. Unplug the electrical connector from the motor and two wires from the capacitor. Remove the two screws holding the clamps in place and then pop off the two clamps. You will need to hold up the motor with one hand while you remove the clamps or it will fall to the floor once the clamps are removed. One piece of the coupling assemble will be attached to the motor and the other will be attached to the gearcase drive shaft. If you want to clean up the mess created by the shredded rubber center piece of the coupling assembly you will have to take off the motor mounting plate. It is held on by two bolts and removing it makes installing the coupling easier but probably not necessary. Push the back half of the coupling on to the gearcase drive shaft until the shaft is flush with the face of the coupling. Install the new rubber center piece on to the coupling then re-install the motor mounting plate. Install the other half of the coupling on to the motor shaft and lift the motor up to the coupling. You have to rotate the motor shaft by spinning the fan blades until the coupling lines up so you can slide it into the other half of the coupling. Then just reattach the motor, connectors and water pump in the reverse order of disassembly.
First pry off the cap of the agitator. Then using a socket remove the bolt that holds the plastic cup in place. Remove this cup by prying it loose from the two tabs that hold it in place. Once this cup is removed you can get to the broken cogs. Slip the new cogs into the underside of the cup, and slide the cup back down in the agitator housing using the slots on the side for a guide. (You may want to remove the entire agitator and assemble everything upside down, then flip it all back over to mount, so the cogs don't fall out). Tighten the bolt, snap the cap back in place on top of the agitator and your'e done. Easy repair.
PartSelect is great for providing parts as requested. Unfortunately, neither of the 2 parts I ordered were on my machine. My bad for not looking at the actual part instead of the description. A word to the wise!
